DIY Clutch Replacement Video

Using the "Move the transmission back" method.

 

Part 1: Intro and Disassembly

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3Bw7RiBSmI]YouTube- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Clutch Replacement (Part 1 of 2)[/ame]

 

Part 2: Inspection and Reassembly

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_-EKcYVpfo]YouTube- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Clutch Replacement (Part 2 of 2)[/ame][ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_-EKcYVpfo][/ame]

Nice videos, I wish you did the videos 3 weeks sooner!! My TOB with 73K miles would not spin unless pressure was constantly applied to turn it!

Nice video. Thanks for sharing.

nice video. it doesnt look that bad too do. so most of the work is done from up top

nice video. it doesnt look that bad too do. so most of the work is done from up top

 

It's about 60/40 up top in terms of stuff to disconnect, but that's the easy stuff. The trans subframe, propshaft and downpipe are heavy, and the trans weighs a TON.

Excellent! Very well done

 

Impressive - I never take the time to take pictures, let alone make a videos of various work.

 

You certainly got your money's worth out of that clutch

 

A transmission jack would have made your life a lot easier compared to that ATV/Motorcycle jack.

Edited December 14, 2009 by rao

You have a wonderful voice. You should do radio...or books on tape. Awesome walk through.

 

I can't believe you replaced the clutch in 12 minutes!

It's about 60/40 up top in terms of stuff to disconnect, but that's the easy stuff. The trans subframe, propshaft and downpipe are heavy, and the trans weighs a TON.

 

i know the trans has gotta be heavy. but from the video it looks like everything went well. it looks like you have an engine hoist on the motor. you using that to keep the motor level? how did you get past the turbo clearance issue?

Engine house allowed me to 'aim' the motor. The thing that got me past the turbo clearance was just perserverance - it actually took a few hours to plug them back together becuase I was using the motorbike jack that didn't allow me to tilt the trans. Once I switched to a jack that allowed me to tilt the trans it went together much easier. It's all about the alignment - it must be perfect.

Thanks so much Scruit. This was always a job that I wanted to tackle and have had fears about.

 

After reviewing your video, it looks to me like a ~6 hour job for a newbie with the proper tools (and forgoing any seized bolts).

 

It also seems completely reasonable for a guy with the right tools, a garage space, and (just in case) another vehicle as a back-up for worst case scenarios.

 

Joe

Nice vid, thanks for sharing!

Cool. This is very timely as my throwout bearing just started making noise last week (93k miles) and I am planning on the full clutch job in a couple of days. After some research I plan to move to the '07 LGT setup (disk/PP/Single flywheel).

 

A couple questions that I might have missed the first time looking through the videos;

 

1) Did you hook up the engine puller on the motor to keep it level?

 

2) It doesn't look like you drained the fluid. Does it not spill out the prop shaft connection and front axle holes?

 

3) Did you replace the front axle oil seals? The sube manual list it as a step.

 

4) Is it not possible to use one or two floor jacks to slide the tranny back?

 

Thanks again for taking the time to put these together.

-Rob

1) Just to keep the motor level, yes.

2) It spills from the propshaft , mostly after you tilt it down to remove it

3) I did not. I didn't plan on removing the axles so I didn't have the seals to hand. Also I figure that getting to the axles is a 20mins/side job that I can do *if* they leak. They haven't.

4) I swapped out the mbike jack for two trolley jacks for reinstallation. My cheap tranny jack didn't have the correct tilt adjustment (it tilts side/side not front/back??) A proper tranny jack is the way to go.

Just watched these videos, and I have a 5EAT!!...lol. Scruit's videos are awesome, especially the in car stuff so I just had to watch. I gotta say, that was extremely well done. Both your narration, and your editing is amazing, and (to agree with E-Tank) you do a wonderful "piece to camera." This should be a sticky, like, now...lol. Good job helping educate the community on a fairly complex and difficult repair procedure.

4) Is it not possible to use one or two floor jacks to slide the tranny back?

 

 

-Rob

 

I recommend if you have a Harbor freight in the area a floor tranny jack. I got mine from them for $119 and it was probably the best tool that was worth it's money ever.

You recommend a floor jack from HF to move the tranny?

You recommend a floor jack from HF to move the tranny?

 

 

 

I recommend if you have a Harbor freight in the area a floor tranny jack. I got mine from them for $119 and it was probably the best tool that was worth it's money ever.

 

My emphasis.

 

Something like this:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178

I have that transmission jack and it does the job very well.

 

 

 

My emphasis.

 

Something like this:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39178

 

opps sorry misread the post. My brain conveniently removed the word tranny from the sentence and I saw "floor jack"....nm, I am dumb

3) I did not. I didn't plan on removing the axles so I didn't have the seals to hand. Also I figure that getting to the axles is a 20mins/side job that I can do *if* they leak. They haven't.

 

Ok you planned to not remove the axles, but in the end you had to anyway? So it is a required step after all?

 

-Rob

Ok you planned to not remove the axles, but in the end you had to anyway? So it is a required step after all?

 

-Rob

 

It can be done without. I removed the axles because I was struggling with my poor jack choice.

It can be done without. I removed the axles because I was struggling with my poor jack choice.

 

On removal or install?

On removal or install?

 

I left them in originally. I could have done it with them left in place if I have used a proper trans jack.

 

I had to switch jacks in mid-job becuase the motorbike jack was not working out. It was safer and more stable than my floor jack with trans jack attachment (which is why I went with it originally) but it gave me no ability to tilt/pitc the trans to align it.

 

Swapping the jack while the trans was disconnected from the engine eas quite a ballet. It required me to support the trans with the engine hoist at the front, and with a spare jack at the back. To do this I had to move the trans further away from the engine than the axles woudl allow.

 

If I had used a proper trans jack from the beginning I could have done the work without removing the axles Live and learn.

 

Having said that, removing the axles took about 5 mins per side. Just pull the split pin from the lower balljoint, impact-wrench the nuts off, picklefor the controal arm off the balljoint, then prybar the avles out of the trans. I literally could have pulled the axles out in the same time it would have take me to get a cup of tea.

Edited December 16, 2009 by Scruit

I actually bought this one, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3185

 

At the time it rang up $119 about a month ago! Might be cheaper in store than online.

 

I read some horror stories of bolt joint bolts stripping out and leaking half shaft seals so I opted to leave mine in the whole time!

I actually bought this one, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3185

 

At the time it rang up $119 about a month ago! Might be cheaper in store than online.

 

I read some horror stories of bolt joint bolts stripping out and leaking half shaft seals so I opted to leave mine in the whole time!

 

That's the ticket. My tranny jack adapter for my floor jack only tilts side/side. Useless considering you need to tilt side/side AND forward/back.

 

This is on my shopping list now.