The COMPLETE beginner's guide to e-tuning (with a vendor and VAG-COM cable)

well, dont i feel sheepish.

 

i couldve sworn it said to turn the car on though when i hit the "read ROM" button.

PM me if you have questions about getting Tactrix Drivers + RomRaider, ECU Flash, LearningView running on Windows 8 Release/Consumer/Dev Preview running on Virtualbox on OSX.

 

Might write up something later if people are interested on the VirtualBox route vs VMware, etc.

Thanks man this was really useful

Hi there, I have a couple questions.

 

I got the blue OBD-II cable from Amazon, followed the directions on the first post except for the EcuFlash definitions, because the link on romraider says they are only good for 1.40 and above, and I'm using 1.29 so I can use a generic cable.

 

So, when I went to save the rom it didn't know what it was, so I told it to inherit the properties of a 2006 Legacy GT, A2WF200N and tagged it as a 2006 Legacy GT Auto and saved it.

 

Is this ok, or are there some older definitions that will read the proper ECU info ?

Here you go, use these definitions:

0.8.3.1b

http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/download/file.php?id=137&sid=c4abf407d8718b289a46fba8e4226869

 

I'm about to update the first post with this link as well

Here you go, use these definitions:

0.8.3.1b

http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/download/file.php?id=137&sid=c4abf407d8718b289a46fba8e4226869

 

I'm about to update the first post with this link as well

 

 

Thanks! Are you sure these work with 1.29? They look a lot like the ones from RomRaider that say they won't.

 

I had some problems reading the ECU, it took a couple tries even at 4800 baud. Is there a way to improve the reliability here? I don't want to have it flake when I write back.

Yes. I used those definitions with my Windows XP machine and it worked great. That file was included with the cable when I purchased it and tuning service from Infamous. I'm not sure why they claim it doesn't work with earlier versions... My Windows 7 machine didn't need the definitions, at least from what I remember... Check my Win 7 instructions to be sure.

 

I'm not sure what your issues might be related to. Which program is giving you trouble, ECU Flash, or Rom Raider?

Yes. I used those definitions with my Windows XP machine and it worked great. That file was included with the cable when I purchased it and tuning service from Infamous. I'm not sure why they claim it doesn't work with earlier versions... My Windows 7 machine didn't need the definitions, at least from what I remember... Check my Win 7 instructions to be sure.

 

I'm not sure what your issues might be related to. Which program is giving you trouble, ECU Flash, or Rom Raider?

Yes. I used those definitions with my Windows XP machine and it worked great. That file was included with the cable when I purchased it and tuning service from Infamous. I'm not sure why they claim it doesn't work with earlier versions... My Windows 7 machine didn't need the definitions, at least from what I remember... Check my Win 7 instructions to be sure.

 

I'm not sure what your issues might be related to. Which program is giving you trouble, ECU Flash, or Rom Raider?

 

The problems are with ECU Flash. It'll randomly stop reading the ECU with an error. Once I had it read fully but I didn't have the A2WF200C definition, so it didnt know what the ECU was.

 

I just don't want to write back and brick my ECU if it fails...

 

Also need to figure out how to paste the tables into romraider from the base maps. When the map says Target Boost [Table3d], am I supposed to put that in Target Boost A in ROMRaider?

Edited June 19, 2012 by Mindflux

I would recommend you remove ECU Flash completely, and reinstall with the definitions provided, just to be on the safe side.

 

Your Rom Raider question is better suited to its own thread in the Tuning forum as it is beyond the scope of these instructions.

I would recommend you remove ECU Flash completely, and reinstall with the definitions provided, just to be on the safe side.

 

Your Rom Raider question is better suited to its own thread in the Tuning forum as it is beyond the scope of these instructions.

 

Ok, thanks. I'll see it it reads more reliably with a definition file.... going through this thread I do see user m sprank does suggest it's not as 'reliable' as the actual Tactrix cable.

I'm trying to connect my AP1 cable with a USB to serial adapter on my laptop using W7 x64 Home Prem. and have tried to update the drivers manually as per http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3792501&postcount=138 after I tried http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3792458&postcount=137

 

I get this message: "The folder you specified doesn't contain a compatible software driver for your device. If the folder contains a driver, make sure it is designed to work with Windows for x64-based systems."

 

and the install fails. Any recommendations are appreciated.

@Adoniram:

 

Here are some things that would have been really helpful to me this past week and may be worth adding to your first post.

 

1.) After flashing with the first base map, my ECU reset my IAM to .75 which is common after a new flash. You want your IAM to 1.0 before you log your pull.

 

1.a) The quickest way to get your IAM to 1.0 is to WOT in 2nd to redline and shift to 3rd, WOT to red line. I had to do this 3 times to get my IAM to 1.0.

 

2.) Help tip: Not sure if this is the case for all models, but on my '08 LGT, the rear defrost button toggled the log file. Much easier than reaching over for the F1 button in my opinion.

 

3.) In "Selecting your parameters to log", I was not given specific instructions on what would should be logged. fultonhow provided me with this information from his E-Tuner.

 

Log the following parameters:

Engine Speed (rpm)

Engine Load (g/rev) 2-byte

IAM 1-byte

Ignition Timing Total (degrees)

Injector Duty Cycle

Knock Sum (count)

Manifold Rel. Pressure (psi) 4-byte

Mass Air Flow (g/s)

Mass Air Flow volts

Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle (%)

Throttle Angle

Thanks to fultonhow and m sprank for sharing this info.

 

HDTurbo suggested I also added Boost Pressure Actual (PSI) to my log. Please confirm, but from what I can tell, this value when logging needs to be adjusted for apsi, or atmospheric pressure. At sea level, I believe you need to subtract 14.7 psi from the recorded value. For me at ~3,000 above sea level, 13.2. I found this info here. I didn't want to add too many parameters for fear of slowing down the data stream and therefore lowering my capture resolution of data, but adding this additional parameter created no ill effects.

 

4.) Stay WOT until the power cuts out. The rev limiter kicks in after 6500 RPM so just commit until the rev goes down then stop your log. I have never spent too much time at red line so I had no idea there was a rev limit set on my '08 LGT.

 

Again, these are some things that I learned through this process and it might be beneficial to someone else.

 

Nice write up, by the way. Thank you for your contribution. It did get me started!

Edited July 13, 2012 by Pako

As to 1A, this is not the fastest way to increase your IAM. The best way to do it is to drive at a steady 4 psi in 2nd or 3rd. You only need to do this once and it will increase.

As to 1A, this is not the fastest way to increase your IAM. The best way to do it is to drive at a steady 4 psi in 2nd or 3rd. You only need to do this once and it will increase.

 

Good to know and thanks for the contribution.

@Adoniram:

 

Here are some things that would have been really helpful to me this past week and may be worth adding to your first post.

 

1.) After flashing with the first base map, my ECU reset my IAM to .75 which is common after a new flash. You want your IAM to 1.0 before you log your pull.

 

1.a) The quickest way to get your IAM to 1.0 is to WOT in 2nd to redline and shift to 3rd, WOT to red line. I had to do this 3 times to get my IAM to 1.0.

 

2.) Help tip: Not sure if this is the case for all models, but on my '08 LGT, the rear defrost button toggled the log file. Much easier than reaching over for the F1 button in my opinion.

 

3.) In "Selecting your parameters to log", I was not given specific instructions on what would should be logged. fultonhow provided me with this information from his E-Tuner.

 

Thanks to fultonhow and m sprank for sharing this info.

 

HDTurbo suggested I also added Boost Pressure Actual (PSI) to my log. Please confirm, but from what I can tell, this value when logging needs to be adjusted for apsi, or atmospheric pressure. At sea level, I believe you need to subtract 14.7 psi from the recorded value. For me at ~3,000 above sea level, 13.2. I found this info here. I didn't want to add too many parameters for fear of slowing down the data stream and therefore lowering my capture resolution of data, but adding this additional parameter created no ill effects.

 

4.) Stay WOT until the power cuts out. The rev limiter kicks in after 6500 RPM so just commit until the rev goes down then stop your log. I have never spent too much time at red line so I had no idea there was a rev limit set on my '08 LGT.

 

Again, these are some things that I learned through this process and it might be beneficial to someone else.

 

Nice write up, by the way. Thank you for your contribution. It did get me started!

 

 

I did not know about the rear defrost button trick! Very cool. Thanks for all the useful info here.

 

Something to note: a lot of tunes have raised rev limiters, or may not have a rev limiter at all (just depends on the tuner), so I can't recommend people go WOT until...?? Might end up with some catastrophic results

3.) In "Selecting your parameters to log", I was not given specific instructions on what would should be logged. fultonhow provided me with this information from his E-Tuner.

Log the following parameters:

Engine Speed (rpm)

Engine Load (g/rev) 2-byte

IAM 1-byte

Ignition Timing Total (degrees)

Injector Duty Cycle

Knock Sum (count)

Manifold Rel. Pressure (psi) 4-byte

Mass Air Flow (g/s)

Mass Air Flow volts

Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle (%)

Throttle Angle

What you log depends on what you're trying to accomplish. The fewer parameters logged to accomplish what you need, the better.

 

Running with stock injectors, stock turbo, and stock intake and your MAF scaling is correct? You can remove IDC and MAF voltage.

 

Having a problem with your timing table causing knock? You should have FBKC and FLKC in there.

 

Trying to dial in boost and wastegate? You need TD Integral and Proportional and Boost Error. Maybe consider Target Boost and WGDC Max.

Edited July 14, 2012 by iNVAR

Good info iNVAR. Now how do we keep these few added posts from getting lost on page 12?

Rear defrost seems to work on all models. I know it does on my 05 GT limited

I still can't seem to get this to work. I have downloaded all of the right software and drivers. When I open ecu flash it has FT232R USB UART A****** in the bottom corner. I click read ecu and a little box pops up but it is empty. It never gives me the option to select my car. I have extracted the definitions into the metadata directory and still no luck. any ideas?

Between step 5 and 6 it asks me to select hardware before I search for the drivers in ecuflash, does anyone know what hardware type to select? or even know what Im talking about? i tried Ports (COM and LPD) with no luck.

I still can't seem to get this to work. I have downloaded all of the right software and drivers. When I open ecu flash it has FT232R USB UART A****** in the bottom corner. I click read ecu and a little box pops up but it is empty. It never gives me the option to select my car. I have extracted the definitions into the metadata directory and still no luck. any ideas?

 

I've not encountered this before. have you tried searching on the Rom Raider site?

 

Between step 5 and 6 it asks me to select hardware before I search for the drivers in ecuflash, does anyone know what hardware type to select? or even know what Im talking about? i tried Ports (COM and LPD) with no luck.

 

This is where you want to hit "have disk" to manually select a driver. You don't want to go through the steps to select a device. Usually the "have disk" button is at the bottom, and not too obvious... What OS are you using?

I am using xp and it didn't give me the option. I click whatever other option it was that wasn't automatic and it made me select a device before it offered "have disc". I'm not 100% sure what exact steps I went through, I'll have to wait until I get off work this evening and then I'll post it.

this was the second compluter i have tried it on also. First I tried it on my friends laptop with windows 7 and when I followed the windows 7 instructions posted on this thread i got to this same part but it didnt make me select a device. When i went to load the drivers on "have disc" it said the drivers are already updated in a little window. I thought that was odd and tried it again fillowing the steps and same thing. I open ecu flash and it still says no vehicle interface or whatever, doesnt say all the numbers and letters it should.