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Couple of turbo swap questions


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I'm currently looking to swap the BNR16g into my LGT, I have about $2000, to play with but parts add up quick so I am trying to figure out which supporting mods are the most important and which ones can be added on as I go?

How long is the break in period for the turbo?.

Do you break it in before getting a tune?

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There is no official break in period for a new turbo, just ensure you've primed it properly and all is functioning as it should. And no, I would not drive the car with a different turbo without being tuned unless your tuner has sent you a limp map to flash before you get on the dyno. That also would involve either an investment in a $500 accessport or the use of a $20 VAG-com obd2 cable and a laptop with RomRaider software. Or simply tow to the tuner.

 

As far as supporting modifications for a bnr16g, you absolutely need a catless up pipe, catless/highflow catted downpipe, I would get a different intercooler (or if your really on a budget, search "endtank JB weld" or something along those lines, to reinforce the garbage plastic ones on the oem tmic that tend to pop off above a certain boost pressure), you'll need a pump and injectors to see the potential of that 16g but it can be run on stock fueling (obviously you'll need to be tuned either way, that goes unsaid), high flow panel filter (less expensive than going for a cold air right off the bat).

 

And thats just about all I can think of. Costs associated with all of the above I'd estimate barebones including the cost of the turbo you'll spend somewhere around the $2k mark (potentially a few hundred more) including the price of a tune (which since your in the tristate area, I wouldnt go to anyone other than EFI Logics myself, about $500 for an opensource stg3 dynotune). Also I dont know if you'll be doing the installation yourself because labor can be pricey. Up that number to close to mid-high $2k's if paying a shop to do it, if not more.

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That's a resonable budget if you're doing the work yourself.

 

 

I built from stage 2:

Here's what I did and would recommend:

 

BNR 16g - $725

Infamous oil line - $175

Used Perrin or AVO TMIC - $500

GrimmSpeed EBCS - $100

 

To get the most out of the turbo, run E85, or go bigger than a VF52 or 16g, you'll need fueling upgrades:

DeatchWerks DW65c fuel pump - $150

650-850cc injectors - $450 to $600 (depending on fuel)

 

There are lots of additional upgrades with marginal improvements at this level, those are all kinda up to you.

 

I think I wound up at about $2100 for my stage 2 to 3 upgrade.

 

I don't think you have to break-in a turbo, but someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I didn't do anything special for break-in.

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For a 16G I would get:

 

Required: Up pipe ($100), Downpipe ($300), Tune ($150-$400)

 

Recommended: TMIC ($400), EBCS ($100), fuel pump ($200) and injectors ($400-$500).

 

Nice to have: CBE ($500)

 

There is a lot of debate over the break in of a turbo. I took it easy for about 250 miles on a low boost map. Then did the final tune. Some say that is overkill and dumb others say it is not nearly enough of a break in.

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Here's a generic build list for a 16G:

 

  • Turbo core: $100 shipped to BNR
  • 16G: $725
  • CNT Catted Downpipe: $300
  • STI catless UP: $75
  • New Gaskets: $75
  • Bullet-proof TMIC kit ($77)
  • DW65c: $150
  • Protune: $500

That puts you right at your budget ($2002) and is probably the most cost effective / bang for your buck setup.

 

I over-estimated on the Protune. If you go with an E-tune you could possibly pick up some injectors used of the forum here and still be within your budget.

 

EDIT: others have mentioned some good points--EBCS (not required but would certainly be nice) and upgraded oil lines for the BNR warranty.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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If I go E-tune such as the infamous tune will that be good enough to hold me over for a while? I plan on getting protuned at EFI but would like to add some exhaust bits and maybe a couple other things before the final tune.

This should all be done by around October before I drive from NY to CO for the winter. Also I've seen some debate wether or not to go Catted or Catless on the downpipe, I've seen some say that having the cat isn't so good for long trips such as the one I will be making due to the prolonged periods of high heat in the engine bay. Any truth to this?

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You could do just fine on an e-tune, even an OTS tune would probably be OK for an interim period. I'd imagine Shamar has tuned a ton of 16g setups, just log after your tune to make sure it's safe.

 

I'm in the camp of "if it's a street car you should have a cat", but to each their own I guess. You'll see zero performance gain going catless, just a bit of savings.

 

Going with the etune and upgrading the oil lines per BNR would leave you about $175 to play with--you'll probably need that anyway for random bits such as hardware, heat wrap, etc.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I'm in the camp of "if it's a street car you should have a cat", but to each their own I guess. You'll see zero performance gain going catless, just a bit of savings.

 

I will see no performance gains by going catless but will I see any benefits from keeping the cat that would make it worth the extra money?

I assume I would still have to switch either pipe out when it comes time for emissions test time right?

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Not sure how strict emissions are where you live. I live in northern va which I consider fairly strict and I don't expect to have to swap my DP (cobb catted) out for emissions testing--could be wrong tho.

 

Also, people driving behind you won't have to smell your car if you stick with a cat. If you plan on doing a full exhaust as well, cops will notice both the sound and the smell. Unwanted attention if you as me.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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get the catless Invidia for around ~$290. e-tune for $150. Sti uppipe for ~$60. Ebay/gms exhaust for ~$350. Budget modding ftw.

 

Catless gets a bad rap, but I'd rather have a quality piece like the Invidia without a cat then the CNT knockoff with a hot cat in the engine bay.

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I live in new york currently which is very strict, and I live in Colorado during the winter. I've heard Colorado is pretty tight too, read somewhere on here they have mobile sniffer vans or something like that! I don't mind paying the extra few hundred to keep the cat on the downpipe if it's worth it
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Not sure it's been addressed yet...you're going to need to have some money saved away for a new clutch if you have a 5MT and are doing all this :) Add a transmission cooler if you are 5EAT.

 

It is a 5eat and am planning on doing the HEXMOD F1 VB and a transmission cooler down the line. I am not going to try milk out max power from the 16g just yet but I'm at a point where my turbo is on the way out and needs replacing so I figure might as well upgrade over stock while I have the chance.

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If you aren't doing the hexmod/trans cooler with the 16g you will likely run into trans problems. msprank blew his 5eat shortly after putting a 16g on his car. Mike also does lots of crazy things to his car though

 

here is the link. I'm not saying this will happen to you as there are multiple members on here with stage3 5eat without problems. But be aware that it could happen and then your budget suddenly doubles.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5eat-w-ipt-vb-and-evo16g-turbo-tranny-slipping-140014.html?t=140014

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Yeah I hear ya, I am planning on doing both of those mods in the near future just not immediately. I NEED a new turbo so I figure why not throw the 16g in there now as opposed to another VF40. I am going to run a quite conservative tune for now until my car is fully ready to extract the power gains from the 16g.
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