Pics of the LGT manifold conversion

So here it is:

 

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/ge_hdr1.jpg

 

as you can see fairly compact and simple.

 

This shot is of the relocated AFR sensor

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/ge_hdr4.jpg

This is a picture of the welded extension about 4 inches total

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/ge_hdr5.jpg

 

Here is a shot with the oil filter plenty of room to change the filter now versus the stock 2.5i manifold.

 

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/ge_hdr2.jpg

 

And the rear o2 sensor I had them place it so it was out of the way of direct road hazards/rain/salt/snow/ etc.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/ge_hdr3.jpg

 

Reflections:

 

The new layout is compact and simple and quiet as a stock LGT or 2.5i. I now have a bolt on UEL system that can be back to stock in 9 bolts (well nuts and studs ) Ive put about 700 miles on the setup no MIL no degradation in fuel mileage, power response, NOTHING negative. You would not be able to tell the UEL header in on the car unless you loo under it.

 

Why do this to be the same as stock?

 

Good question! I wanted to be able to control the tone of my exhaust as much as possible, by being at stock sound levels I can now swap mid and Y pipe combo's along with muffles ass I please. See i/m not 100% sure one entire system will make me happy, I might like stock Y and Perrin cans or perrin Y and stock cans (examples)

 

I have been trying out idea and I hogzausted the car just to get a sense of "loudness" and I have to say I liked that experiment. Now I am on the quest to replicate that with mufflers not washers

 

Difficulty i would say 7/10 only because i chose to TIG and not cold weld it using a MIG welder. Both will work fine but I plan to leave this on the car until i sell it or trade or forever and baking and TIG welding ensure a strong welded only b/c this is cast steel.

 

Parts list is simple:

LGT/WRX manifold (I would stick to 06+ if possible)

One 2.25" Three bolt flange

Two Standard o2 bungs

One 36" Casper rear O2 extension

 

Finding a shop could be difficult if you don't explain what you want correctly. I printed a picture and just showed the shop and they instally knew what to do no problem cost me $180 plus $117.32 in parts

 

So for ~$300.00 I got what I wanted: a UEL header that fits better, will last longer and doesn't degrade normal operation characteristics.

 

I got this done at Mach V Motorsports here in VA stand up guys quality work, no complaints:)

Reserved for video

Great job!

 

I am constantly amazed at how much effort you've put into exhaust work on an I.

 

Have fun.

 

O.

Not to be a hater, but you spent ~$300 for a LESS efficient exhaust setup?

^what i think everytime i see these 2.5i headder mod threads.

Not to be a hater, but you spent ~$300 for a LESS efficient exhaust setup?

 

Less efficient hardly. The stocker has tight bends that don't allow the straightest path of travel for combustion gases this setup is as free flowing as possible with one less cat and about 2 feet less of tubing. The dyno will tell all but have had every setup exhaust on my car I can say I haven't had the adverse effects of the Borla.

 

Once I get my Tactrix cable I can pull some logs with both manifolds to see the delta.

Great job!

 

I am constantly amazed at how much effort you've put into exhaust work on an I.

 

Have fun.

 

O.

 

Thanks. Hey we all have our convictions and hobbies and odd desires

 

Now on to the right mufflers

^what i think everytime i see these 2.5i headder mod threads.

 

Not to be a hater, but you spent ~$300 for a LESS efficient exhaust setup?

 

Well its hard to not come off as a hater since you wandered all the way in the N/A section to post a salty remark. That like me going into the GT section to hate on a post you made about installing a BOV based on the Rich condition btwn shifts issue. Also I don't want to hear it I have a looong thread about it if you want to debate, this thread is for the end result.

 

Secondly how many modded 2.5i's have either of you dyno'd ? or better yet how many stock ones?

 

At some point you have to stop repeating unproven rumors. In the turbo world your claim holds true in our world no one has ever tested it. I plan to be the first, once i get my numbers I will post the results no matter what they prove:)

 

My Theory:

 

This setup will flow better than the stock obviously but power levels will be equal or slightly higher than stock.

Hey! I didn't wander in the N/A section, this post was the headliner for the N/A section on the main forum listing page! My LGT is my first FI car, and I like to see what N/A guys are doing to their cars because it reminds me on the many N/A cars I've modded in the past. Nostalgic reasons, you know.

 

Besides, 2.5i performance is more of a grassroots effort than the big, high-dollar turbo stuff.

 

To me, when I see people putting UEL's on their cars when the factory manifolds were equal length makes me think of going from this:

http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRKV637FeO0-WmdY80ar0sVsZkA3TxpYnLD99G6jxehiWwyP9s6jQ&t=1

 

To this:

http://www.monsterautoparts.com/chevrolet/chevy%20truck/chevrolet_pickup/_images_chevy_pickup/1390115.jpg

 

Thats all.

My LGT

 

 

 

That will be all thank you.

 

 

 

Unless you have flow numbers ,which you don't, you need to realize one of the purposes of this is to produce some concrete numbers for anybody curious. Or is that not simple enough for you to understand OR do you just feel cool coming into this section to satisfy your "ive got a LGT and you don't" complex ?

The answer is "yes" on all accounts.

 

Because I own the GT model of this car, any of my input, whether it makes any sense or not, is invalid...

The answer is "yes" on all accounts.

 

Because I own the GT model of this car, any of my input, whether it makes any sense or not, is invalid...

 

YES IT IS INVALID!

 

It is the same as if I said 2.5i mufflers are inefficient for the 05+ LGT I have no proof or have never tested it myself or any other person for that matter.

 

You can't tell me something is "inefficient" when the comparison is EJ55 to EJ253.

 

Also the stock manifold isn't phased tuned like a true EL, think TWE Long Tube EL header, I imagine only a handful are developed to such an extent, even for the turbo crowd. The stocker is a UEL ranging from 18 " to 27 primaries, and perpendicular bends with small radii. From what I know abotu proper scavenging, the stock unit ain't getting it done.

So since "LGT" is in my car description, I automatically have ZERO credibility when offering any input I have on ANY subject not relating to turbocharging?

 

Subaru engineers put the UEL manifolds on turbocharged models because it was cost effective, and any power losses could be negated by changing turbos, tunes, etc.

 

Why did those same engineers spend who knows how much time and more importantly MONEY developing a completely different system for the N/A models when the turbo model thay already had on the shelf would make their N/A engine develop more power?

 

Oh, and the UEL manifolds on turbo models are the suspected reason why cylinders 2 and 4 are always the ones that have cracked ringlands... Great design.

 

 

Wait, nevermind. I forgot that the ej255/257 engines were designed with alien technology and run on nuclear fusion.

This thread seems like it's getting a bit out of hand.. This is also a debate thats gone on for ages.

 

Please just let us NAs put on inefficient headers and be done with it.

Please just let us NAs put on inefficient headers and be done with it.

 

It's an addiction really...

 

One way to put it: Mathematically inefficient, but without a decline in noticable performance.

 

The freedom to alter how it sounds is more what this mod is about than anything.

Im not going to debate Cobra any further the thread was simply to show the community my mod and to outline how simple it was.

 

 

I think it is the best UEL outside a full custom build like the Moores Performance or LaChute header (which is very SEX) yes SEX and not SEXY

So since "LGT" is in my car description, I automatically have ZERO credibility when offering any input I have on ANY subject not relating to turbocharging?

 

Subaru engineers put the UEL manifolds on turbocharged models because it was cost effective, and any power losses could be negated by changing turbos, tunes, etc.

 

Why did those same engineers spend who knows how much time and more importantly MONEY developing a completely different system for the N/A models when the turbo model thay already had on the shelf would make their N/A engine develop more power?

 

Oh, and the UEL manifolds on turbo models are the suspected reason why cylinders 2 and 4 are always the ones that have cracked ringlands... Great design.

 

 

Wait, nevermind. I forgot that the ej255/257 engines were designed with alien technology and run on nuclear fusion.

 

That too... now hurry along back to turbo land

So since "LGT" is in my car description, I automatically have ZERO credibility when offering any input I have on ANY subject not relating to turbocharging?

 

You don't have any creditability when speaking about something YOU HAVE NEVER DONE OR TESTED.

 

 

I would totally ask your thoughts about a FP green vs a AVO 380 or perrin El vs JDM TS setup and value your input or Whitetiger or any other seemingly knowledgeable turbo owner. Just this particular issue you can't tell me more about b/c i literally have tested every setup.

Setup has been running well for about 3k miles now and I started to develop a exhaust leak, so I put in all new gasket and the leak was still present. After many hours of thought I was looking over some drawings at work and the solution hit me as to why I was getting a leak, so I made a Vizio drawing to show you all :

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r182/GEE-OTTO/Flangeissue.jpg

 

So a note to make: ensure you get two NON-slotted flanges because one slotted or two slotted will slip

Wow, good drawing dude! And thanks for the heads up, cause I was planning on using the Vibrant flange myself. Know any sources for quality non-slotted flanges?

nice diagram!

Well Vibrant apparently makes Non-slotted 2.25 inch flanges. I am waiting on a call back from the speed shop to see if they have any in stock. I have to now grind the weld off the old flange, take it off , slip on the new one and weld it back in place.

 

A simple fix but one i could have avoided, BUT my mistake the communities gain

The flanges you will want to order are from SPD Exhaust part No. F225-3CNC-P these are 2.25" round hole three bolt flanges. I was going to make a studded flange to mimic the stocker but i figured this was much simpler since it was made.

Thread revival... and a good thread btw.

 

Like you I want to be able to control my exhaust sound a bit better, but have been worried about the supposed "power losses" people have been talking about. I may be able to get my hands on a 2011 STi header. This should fit the same, right? Will it have the AFR and 02 sensor holes already in place, assuming I don't want to relocate them? Just looking to see if it will be plug and play apart from the extended welding and flanges. (2 flanges?)

 

Thanks a whole lot for the time you put into this! AC

I'm now reading that you do have to relocate those, and run the risk of needing a tune if resetting your ECU doesn't fix any ratio issues.

 

Hmmm.