Which BPV to Choose?

Sounds like I should be looking more closely at the Avo one, then. Which is just as well since it looks like it might be the only option right now for something new in a box.

Somebody installed one and it was rubbing against the fans. He ended up getting Mishimoto slim fans.

Bleh. How reliable is the stock charge pipe at stage 2? I'm trying to keep the list of "extras" that I semi-sorta-kinda need to a minimum.

You don't need a charge pipe unless you want the bling or plan to go Stage3 with a bigger turbo and start pushing 22 or 23 psi, that's when it fails.

I think the main benefit for the racerx chargepipe is that it relocates the BPV, which then gives more options for which BPV you can use

I think the main benefit for the racerx chargepipe is that it relocates the BPV, which then gives more options for which BPV you can use

 

exactly, and easier to service.

FYI, if yall get TMIC and tune, then decide to use chargepipe later, you have to tune again. Also if yall don't port the turbo with DP and get creep to 21-22psi, charepipe may not hold up.

Also if yall don't port the turbo with DP and get creep to 21-22psi, charepipe may not hold up.

 

This shouldn't be a problem with the Nameless divorced wastegate downpipe if I understand things correctly.

FYI, if yall get TMIC and tune, then decide to use chargepipe later, you have to tune again. Also if yall don't port the turbo with DP and get creep to 21-22psi, charepipe may not hold up.

 

Tune for a charge pipe?

This shouldn't be a problem with the Nameless divorced wastegate downpipe if I understand things correctly.

 

Divorced, plate, or bellmouth, its all the same and don't make a difference of more than +/- 5hp, doesn't help with boost creep because people with divorced dp still gets it if wg itself remains the same (this is true for the small OEM IHI turbo, different aftermarket turbo design may have different results). You should read up on Nasioc about different DP types. That was the reason why I didn't go through with the group buy. Doesn't matter it's twin dump, divorced with lip extension, bellmouth, or simple plate type; our boost creep has to do with the 90 degree turn in our IHI turbo wg. The only way nameless's twin dump DP can make a difference is if you get an aftermarket turbo with the same split design and they match up. Some people say the cheaper plate design is best for oem small turbo because it blocks the wg port and slows down exhaust flow a bit to help with the creep build up. Being catted is one thing that they all agree to have helped. So it seems that there's no other way around porting or EWG. So in other words, I'll just keep my invidia catted DP and save myself the $ and trouble. If I was in the market for DP no question I would get the Nameless one, but based on research on people who have tested different types of DP, there's no difference when it comes to boost creep.

Edited September 11, 2015 by blklgt05

Tune for a charge pipe?

 

I did everything at the same time so that's not something I had to do, but I don't think the racer-x chargepipe have the exact same size as the OEM one, so wouldn't that require a retune?

Reputable tuner by me is pushing a Tial BOV - saying all other valves he's used 100% will leak - I had already grabbed the nameless BPV - which can switched to VTA being that I'm going speed density tuned - I guess my question is - people think the tuner is just pushing a name he gets a cut on - or speaking true experience?

 

 

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Personally I wouldn't let anyone who is that pushy tune my car.

Everything else about the conversation was great - took a lot of time to speak with me on phone, detailed above and beyond email conversations - and plenty of great reviews on nasioc -

 

 

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If he's ignorant enough to think that only one BOV doesn't leak, and all others do, then he's too ignorant to tune your car well.

 

That's how I'd see it anyway.

If he's ignorant enough to think that only one BOV doesn't leak, and all others do, then he's too ignorant to tune your car well.

 

That's how I'd see it anyway.

 

To be fair he said that the valves that he has used have leaked, not all other valves.

I guess it would be helpful to know what other valves he has used. If his experience is based on only one or two other samples, maybe this could be believed. There are quite a few of us (myself included) running 'other' valves that are perfectly satisfied with what we have.

 

I should state that I've got a Turbosmart Kompact BOV and I have no trouble holding 22+ psi.

Edited November 7, 2015 by jackal8788

The GFB mach 2 cannot leak, period, at any pressure unless it literally blows apart... Maybe at 400psi.

 

I'm guessing the same is true for all direct actuated piston type BPVs.

 

The actuator piston is larger than the valve piston, sooo... It's physically impossible for it to open itself under boost. The preload spring plays no part in keeping it closed under boost, just under vacuum.

 

Not all BPVs function the same way.

 

On that note, while browsing the factory service manual for clues for Jackals problem, I found a page with testing instructions for the OEM BPV. Guess what? 8 psi is when its supposed to start opening...

 

I honestly feel that a BPV replacement should be standard issue hardware at stage 1 just like a downpipe is stage 2.

 

Also.. As the air temps have dropped, my BPV has gotten a lot louder. Denser air I guess. I can easy hear it in 1st 2nd shift and 2nd 3rd with the windows up.

 

It's ninja-sweet.

For the $$$ you can't beat Forge.

^^^ How so? The GFB mach 2 is much cheaper.

I'm pretty sure my synapse eng. synchronic BPV doesn't leak.

I'm pretty sure my synapse eng. synchronic BPV doesn't leak.

 

Mine "leaks" every time I press the clutch in.

I love my GFB Mach 2 and it gave a little sound increase over OEM all while not leaking like a pile of junk.

Going to run a Cobb XLE 100% VTA when I get tuned with speed density in a couple weeks with BNR 20G.

 

Cobb XLE was not holding properly after less than 2 years of use. It was replaced with a Tial Q.

I love my GFB Mach 2 and it gave a little sound increase over OEM all while not leaking like a pile of junk.

 

Have you dialed the preload spring all the way in (stiff) ? I found it was loudest at about 1 full turn out from full pre-load. No compressor surge even at full preload so I went with loudest