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Info on OB to GT suspension geometry. (Removing spacer)


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Very nice.....I saw a picture of that car on vwvortex! He's got a staggered set I think!!!

 

Awesome, glad you like my photo! Yeah, I cant remember the sizing but its definitely staggered. Here is another:

 

http://i.imgur.com/OZxyU.jpg

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I purchased all the needed parts for the swap shown on picture in previous page including the GT rack and pinion for 260$ and then 100$ for shipping.

 

It was a good deal!!! I got all the parts with rack and pinion but minus the tranny cross member pieces from a part-out on Nasioc for 200$ and the tranny cross member I got on ebay for 60$ shipped.

 

Coil overs, wheels and other misc. parts well that just surplus!

 

Why did you get a new rack? Was yours leaking?

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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those wheels should look good, and probably wont be too difficult to fit. when i first saw them i was thinking, hmm those look like a "volkswagen-style" wheel, and then saw joe's picture one post down lol!

 

joe, your photos are great by the way!

 

rotiforms are by no means a bad wheel company, in comparison to rota. they have many different styles, with original designs, ranging from cast aluminum, to forged 3piece wheels. the rotiform style is becoming heavily popular, or "played" as one might call it, but that does not diminish the quality of their wheels, whatsoever. I planned to get a set for my outback, but disregarded the idea after being quoted $4400 for the set I wanted -- I don't see rota selling wheels at that price/quality.

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Well I'm almost done now! I got pictures to show the differences in the parts side to side.

The GT rack does fit right in but there is a a slight difference. I am not sure if the difference is in the steering column length or the rack input shaft length but I was able to install it by first removing the spacers, the bolting the GT rack and keeping the OB steering knuckle. Mod needed was to grind 1/4in of the splines on the steering column shaft where the bolt passes to get the knuckle to go further on the steering column shaft since the OB knuckle is slightly longer by approx 1/2in!

Getting tires mounted this evening! Further update to come!

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I'm more interested in rack fitment without grinding anything down. Was the grinding required because you removed all the subframe spacers? Would the rack fit an otherwise stock Outback?

 

Yes the rack will fit but if you dont remove the spacers the steering joint(OB joint) will mostlikely be a little short. Its an easy fix. The steering joint as a rubber bushing that holds with rivets. Grid down 2 of the rivets, pull the joint apart and put in a spacer(washers for example). Then put it back togeter with strong bolts. Simply easy mod.

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Now here are all the parts and the diferences.

 

Exaust center heat sheild. Its deeper and gives the room for the exaust and tucks in close to the GT driveshaft that is deeper in the tunel

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6547.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6546.jpg

 

Front spacer removed and the difference in the bolt is not the length but the amount of thread

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6570.jpg

 

Steering joint, you can see the difference in length. You will use the gt one if you keep the OB rack but you will need the OB joint using the GT rack. Explained above.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6569.jpg

 

Front LCA plate, stud and spacer

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6568.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6567.jpg

 

Shifter assembly, the difference is 1/4in. in length of the rods.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6565.jpg

 

Rear UCA, they are the same length but the real difference is in the curve and bump stop contact point that is lower.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6559.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6562.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6563.jpg

 

Rear Bump stop

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6555.jpg

 

Drive shaft, you can see the center bearing difference where it bolts to the frame

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6551.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6552.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6553.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6554.jpg

 

Rear subframe bolt that are shorter

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6584.jpg

 

Rear trailing are brakets brigns the trailing arm closer to the body

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6579.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6581.jpg

 

Tranny cross member, you can see it sets the tranny closer to the body also

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6573.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6574.jpg

IMG_6547.thumb.jpg.a28394567abc9aaddc9c968046b67fd8.jpg

IMG_6546.thumb.jpg.bdcc35b21b46be4b4d74bcb539898ae4.jpg

IMG_6570.thumb.jpg.3d7758e044ae4808fd150ac374a26519.jpg

IMG_6569.thumb.jpg.bc4e098c0594a6604d79915e42ce8c1e.jpg

IMG_6568.thumb.jpg.d5e335acb9c80fcb19f4234c2fde09e3.jpg

IMG_6567.thumb.jpg.335dfc6f4de0a294a38cc8c27abf06f2.jpg

IMG_6565.thumb.jpg.092477f63b257554b6c3ce28222d5334.jpg

IMG_6559.thumb.jpg.a1edb236b9896f87fe826048d7f92ebe.jpg

IMG_6562.thumb.jpg.078a55b81380caa78839b6fad18ac655.jpg

IMG_6563.thumb.jpg.39d8b3fbfbd0f206b94feedf3274477c.jpg

IMG_6555.thumb.jpg.cf3f331a8b217b491910c1acaa9311bc.jpg

IMG_6551.thumb.jpg.795b51575d933fb4793d0d62f43cc43a.jpg

IMG_6552.thumb.jpg.e74863c4464b9fb1fa2d342b2a8b7842.jpg

IMG_6553.thumb.jpg.6d577ad217c188adfd563817968e1c42.jpg

IMG_6554.thumb.jpg.92bbe93c51a30c81992474acf9d7c3cc.jpg

IMG_6584.thumb.jpg.e55bba238c816d09fb7dd0b7eb079268.jpg

IMG_6579.thumb.jpg.49fe4d3ff13f8ed7e147422e24a5edfe.jpg

IMG_6581.thumb.jpg.cd8148457cd56b1aeab139ce6563ae80.jpg

IMG_6573.thumb.jpg.c023102ec3af078b1bf98d921da33353.jpg

IMG_6574.thumb.jpg.fb0b62903b69e7b4668e25c15d876324.jpg

Edited by SBT
Loaded pictures for posterity's sake
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Awesome! I really need to get those upper control arms. I haven't installed the trailing arm brackets or removed my spacers yet, I should probably wait until I get the control arms and just do it all at once. Right?
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The rack

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/OBXT%20to%20LGT%20suspension/IMG_6576.jpg

 

And here is the result....will get better pics later

 

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6609.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6608.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6606.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6602.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6601.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d191/JDMG3/IMG_6600.jpg

 

Fiting the 18x9.5 +30 was petty easy. I have no rubbing what so ever, even at full slammed. Now I have raised it a little since I hate riding on the bump stops and I haul 2 small ones. The fender in the rear, platic is cut and fender rolled flat. Front fenders, plastic is cut and fender was cut 1.5in high for about 10in over the wheel. Only had to get rid of one plastic clip that hold the flare. Now I have plenty of room and I have about 1.75 camber front and 1 rear.

 

Will get pictures of fender work later.

IMG_6576.thumb.jpg.cee1eee84a3240861ab838adbdc811f7.jpg

IMG_6609.thumb.jpg.a298aa2a2e4695a3b8757730143bd9a1.jpg

IMG_6608.thumb.jpg.a0215ec89787439e597e92c673b3c9b2.jpg

IMG_6606.thumb.jpg.a9372023d9a64d4599f5ec72d4ce3027.jpg

IMG_6602.thumb.jpg.b255e33b9645f396f5dff1e466328cf2.jpg

IMG_6601.thumb.jpg.b2853ce9c21a3e4c0ff9fba3ac34662e.jpg

IMG_6600.thumb.jpg.43acca4871c148d3413c9bb2b479c9ab.jpg

Edited by SBT
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Fantastic writeup.

 

Maybe I'll tackle this one day.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Awesome! I really need to get those upper control arms. I haven't installed the trailing arm brackets or removed my spacers yet, I should probably wait until I get the control arms and just do it all at once. Right?

 

Well you could do it after but might as well do it all at once.

 

I have not drived the car lowered without removing the spacer but what I can say is that right now the car feels very tight, direct and sporty. Also very responsive. Way more than it was and thats thx to the rack and the front lca bushings. I have not driven it on the hwy or taken any real good corner yet so more to come...

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http://i.imgur.com/Y02kx.jpg

 

Figured I would make this so people can see exactly what is what.

 

1. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

2. Shift Rod (Do not know part number)

3. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

4. 20501AE00A <=== Bumpstops

5. 901000304 <=== Flange Bolts for subframe. Need Four. $3.75 each

6. LCA bushing stud (Do not know part number)

7. LCA cover plate (Do not know part number)

8. 20540AE090 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket LFT Side. $20.89

9. 20250AE04A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Left: $77.00

10. 34170AG021 <== Steering Linkage U Joint. $140.00

11. 20250AE02A <=== Rear Upper Control Arm Right: $77.00

12. 20540AE080 <== Rear Lower Trailing Arm Bracket RT Side:$20.89

13.

14.

15. Rear Transmission horizontal crossmember (Dont know part number)

16. Front Subframe Bolts (Do not know part number)

17. Center Exhaust Heat Shield (Do not know part number)

18. Transmission Sub Frame (Do not know part number)

19. Drive Shaft (Do not know part number)

 

If someone wants to jump in with the names for the other parts and part numbers for what I don't know that would be great!!

 

So to bring this list to this page, you used EVERYTHING on this list, except for the LGT steering knuckle (because you used the LGT steering rack).

 

Right?

 

I'll see if I can go through the drawings and get PN's for all of the missing ones on that list.

 

If I can find a local partout, I might try and snag all of that stuff. I'd love to do the official conversion to wagon bits and get rid of the Outback parts.

Y02kx.thumb.jpg.756397bc384f6f38a1fabdee6d3039a8.jpg

Edited by SBT
Loaded pictures for posterity's sake
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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