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Door Lock Actuator Problems


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Hi all! My Legacy wagon has had problems to unlock rear left door last two winters. If morning is cold I need to unlock 2 or 3 times for this door to open. Nice info about where to buy the spare, as I assume that it will go worse and worse!
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Same problem here. most of the motors I found on the net, and referenced in the post have a 10mm long shaft, whereas my motor is almost 20mm, and has a flat key on the shaft for the worm gear, so I don't think they are direct replacements. I suspec they are a special model requested by Subaru from the manufacturer.

 

I ended up sourcing an actuator from the US delivered for $100, compated to $260 from the dealer!

I am curious to see if anyone bought these motors and used those?

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK, I had a bit of time so decided it was time to re-repair my original problem lock, as well as one that has been intermittently being an problem.

I bought some new motors on ebay, however as reported seaslug, these have short shafts. Never fear, using the armature of the original one fixes this problem. The problem with these motors is that grease or oil was placed on the bushes/commutator. this is a no no on any electric motor, as it ruins the brushes.

I know this "how to" has been reported by teK, however I thought I would post some pictures here also.

 

Remove the door trim

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4253

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4254

 

Remove the lock assembly, loosen of the cover and unscrew the actuator from the lock assembly

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4255

 

Open actuator, I found starting as shown in the photo the easiest.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4256

 

Bother, subaru shaft much longer

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4257

 

Armatures removed from bodies.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4258

 

Clean the original one real good, concentrating on the commutator. I used Jif(Vim, or Cif depending on where you live) to really clean the commutator, using a tooth pick to remove the grease between the segments. Rinse and allow to dry completely (very important)

remove the old dirty plastic washers and replace with the ones from the new armature.

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4259

 

Put the motor, and actuator back together, sealing it up how you feel best. I used a solder iron to melt the plastic together all the way around.

Reinstall and hey presto you are back in business.

NB: take care putting the motor back together. the brushes must be sitting on the commutator.

Edited by chrisay
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Hi chrisay,

 

I have also made the modification you have mentioned and it works perfectly, however, i have used the new motor shell since the magnets there fells to be stronger, and i had a problem closing up the original motors.

 

In any case i send a quote to the guy that sold me the motors on ebay, since he is selling a replacement motor, can he sell ones without the shafts since we are using the original ones.

 

P.S. can i use some of your photo's to share on our local Subaru forums ? (of course you will get the credits).

 

Thanks.

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  • 2 months later...

Having the door lock issue for a 2005 Legacy Wagon, with the front passenger and rear driver, but they just up and stopped working. Is it possible to take the panel off without opening the door? It has become impossible to get either door open. It's kind of irritating to have to play Dukes Of Hazard all the time. There isn't a Dealer on the island, so there isn't even that to turn to.

 

I've tried fiddling with the lock and lever (inside & out) to get the door open, and also pressing the unlock many times on both the remote and the doors.

The Passenger side sounds like it's trying to catch the cable but that something has slipped out.

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Having the door lock issue for a 2005 Legacy Wagon, with the front passenger and rear driver, but they just up and stopped working. Is it possible to take the panel off without opening the door? It has become impossible to get either door open. It's kind of irritating to have to play Dukes Of Hazard all the time. There isn't a Dealer on the island, so there isn't even that to turn to.

 

I've tried fiddling with the lock and lever (inside & out) to get the door open, and also pressing the unlock many times on both the remote and the doors.

The Passenger side sounds like it's trying to catch the cable but that something has slipped out.

 

I'm not sure what Island you are on? But would say that any automobile association (or crim) should have the tools and knowhow to unlock, your locked doors. I seriously doubt you would be able to get the panel off far enough to gain access without opening the door. I can almost guarantee you that the sound you hear is not the cable slipping out, but the motor just failing to fully activate the actuator.

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The sound of something trying to catch is the outside lever with the door still locked. I tried again to unlock with the double tap this morning and the front passenger door unlocked, but the rear driver is still pooched.

 

This is the worst lottery ever.

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  • 1 month later...

Just found this thread and have to give a big thanks to Chrisay for the write up. I was having the same problem with the rear door in my '08 outback, and decided to dismantle today.

 

Apparently I had the opposite problem to everyone else; not a drop of grease to be found in the assembly. Motor was completely seized. I don't think the ebay replacement will save me here :(

 

http://i.imgur.com/Pu8aR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TOlYj.jpg

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Oh wow, you don't happen to have a boat do you...?

However yes you should be able to repair the motor, lightly sand off the corrosion from the armature, and then clean it up as I did, with the new parts from the ebay, it should work. Remember do not put grease in or on the actual motor, grease contact with the commutator quickly causes the graphite bushes to stop conducting.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=799&pictureid=4806

 

 

Just found this thread and have to give a big thanks to Chrisay for the write up. I was having the same problem with the rear door in my '08 outback, and decided to dismantle today.

 

Apparently I had the opposite problem to everyone else; not a drop of grease to be found in the assembly. Motor was completely seized. I don't think the ebay replacement will save me here :(

Edited by chrisay
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Hi, I am from singapore and was delighted to find this thread. It is the 2nd time I had this problem, 1st was on the rear left now front. I spend $200 the 1st time but I thought is too much to pay for whole assembly which I suspect could be just a damage motor.

Anyway, I tried this morning but stuck at the part of removing the whole white plastic assembly out from the sheet-metal door panel. The problem I face is there is this rod about 6mm dia attached to this assembly and I couldn't figure out how to detach it. I did not want to force it since it is not in a position I can see clearly and also considering I have to relocate it back later if I do not know how it is being install in place. You guys seems to be able to do it with ease so I need some advice here. Thank you in advance.

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Hi crzcar,

 

The 6mm dia rod will slide out once you verify that you have removed ALL of the screws connecting the motor unit AND detach the dual V shape arm from it's location.

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  • 3 weeks later...
After 2 wks of waiting for the motors to reach me I finally got my door back working yesterday! Big thank you to this thread and those who have given me advice. I had a lot of satisfaction having DIY this repair especially I live in Singapore where we do have the luxury of a garage or tools easily accessible at home.
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I got it from ebay like you guys did, clean and reuse the shaft or commuter... if any anyone has the source to the exact motor that comes with 20mm shaft and flat will be great! I can stock a couple for the other doors. Thanks!
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  • 1 month later...

To the people who have bought the eBay replacement motors.... Can you just replace the entire motor without replacing the internals? I am asking because I cannot get the motor apart to clean and/or replace. Are there any risks just replacing the whole motor or is it just not physically possible because of size?

 

Thanks!

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To the people who have bought the eBay replacement motors.... Can you just replace the entire motor without replacing the internals? I am asking because I cannot get the motor apart to clean and/or replace. Are there any risks just replacing the whole motor or is it just not physically possible because of size?

 

Thanks!

 

Short answer is no, as yet I have not heard of, or come across the long shafted motor which is used in this actuator.

 

What is the problem you are having it opening the motor? If you have got the actuator out of the door and opened, you have done the hardest part.

 

Take a good look at the photos I had post previously, there is also a link posted by Tek to another site showing the process also http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=10479

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The tabs are right by the side of the motor holding the white piece in place. On the original motor the tabs are short and is difficult to remove. I used a plier to force it out. All you need to to reuse the center shaft onto the new motor you have bought! I hope this piece of info helps.
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