Engine Removal help

OK 07 2.5I MT seems I've spun a bearing...onwards

 

Have removed all bolts. I now have to remove the clutch release fork.

covering bolt is out

 

All info I have says to insert a 6mm bolt into shaft and remove.A NASIOC thread uses a battery holddown bolt. Won't work. have tried.measured dia 5mm. Wife has other car at moment. Can't get to a store. Does anyone know of another 6mm bolt on car that is about 1 1/2 inches or longer? Intake manifold bolts don't work either.

 

O.

Continuing : Only turbo models have shaft on fork. Non turbos only have springs

 

I had removed flywheel bolts in an effort to make it easier, buit no go. Something is holding tranny to engine. I can't even get a crack. No room to swing hammer to hit bolts on bottom. No place on top to insert a pry bar of some type. Have placed jack under tranny and stood on front of engine and bounced. Still nothing. I must be missing something somewhere, but where. How in the hell do you get the clutch fork to

to release, if that is in fact holding it?

 

I counted 6 flywheel to pressure plate bolts, are there more?

 

Anybody?

 

O

Solved: unbolted flywheel again. Had an old bottle jack around. Placed 2x4 on firewall and base on lift bracket. Cracked seal. Now the real work begins. Pray I don't have to have the crank turned. Time will tell. Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera so I can't take step by step photos.

 

O.

This is confusing...

 

How did you spin a bearing on an '07 2.5i?

not sure if its spun bearing, but it has a loud knock from the engine. Bt it doesn't change with engine speed, so its probably not a bearing.

Its definitely something metallic clanging in there.

BTW I have 85K miles, so I'll change the clutch, timing belt, water pump etc while I am in there. probably a lightened crank pulley. Not sure on steering and alternator.

 

A few engines in my time, but this is my 1st Suby. Its gonna be fun

 

Will keep all advised once I get in there.

 

O.

Please do keep us informed.

 

I'm getting close to pulling my engine for a rebuild too. Runs good just uses oil.

 

I have been reading that getting the tranny off the block is hard the first time. After this week mine tranny will have been rebuilt for its 4th time. So in a few months, my block should pop right off.

 

Do you have the manual for the rebuild? I have it if you'd need a copy.

 

 

 

After this week mine tranny will have been rebuilt for its 4th time. So in a few months, my block should pop right off.

 

 

4th rebuild on the tranny ,,someone in your family needs to learn how to drive a stick.

4th rebuild on the tranny ,,someone in your family needs to learn how to drive a stick.

 

 

The first one may be. The second time a piece of a shift fork was found in the tail shaft and they found the case had worn around the input shaft letting it move around. May be they should have found that the 1st time. The 3rd time was shortly there after, they should have replaced second gear the last time. This time it's bearing noise and there's a lot of backlash noise when you let off in 2nd,3rd &4th.

oook,,if you say so.

Maybe a different dealer/transmision shop? Ya think?

2 different dealers, now it's at a shop who I trust.

 

Sorry to hi jack this thread.

Please do keep us informed.

Do you have the manual for the rebuild? I have it if you'd need a copy.

 

 

Thanks but no I have one also. Hopefully by the weekend I'll have had the time to dismantle and find out what the problem was.

 

O.

Update It is a spun bearing. Piston pushes down ever so slightly when rotated in certain positions. Had hell getting one head bolt off. The wrist pin removal hole needs a 14mm hex. tried to find, but to no avail w/o ordering. On a whim, tried my T70 torx bit and voila!

 

After removal of bottom end, there are pieces of bearing in the case. Now to see how much damage to the crank is done.

 

Should be removing other wrist pins etc and cracking the case in 2 days. Will keep updating.

 

O.

Did you remove the head bolts one at a time or break them all loose a 1/4 turn at a time?

probably cranked too much at one time more like one full turn. The next hang up are wrist pins. really stuck in there. hit with wood dowel to try and break any varnish etc loose. Made a a tool, but so far no go. Enough for tonight. N

Not enough room to loosen lower connecting rod bolt so the piston can be pushed out from crank side. Will spray with pb and let it soak overnight.

 

The saga continues.

 

O.

update got 2 wrist pins out #1 and #2. fashioned tool from old battery holdown bolt. Very stiff, just had to cut off end so it would just fit inside, still not a lot of hook. Got a brainstorm and ran bolt down thread to act as an anchor point. Used hammer and a block of wood to pry. Still took over 15 mins per side. tool keeps slipping.

 

Now to get bolts from inside water jacket out. Have to buy the 12pt 12 mm that it requires. should be able to crack case tomorrow.

 

onwards. here is picture of makeshift fulcrum point. used string to hold wood while I positioned hammer.

 

Not the greatest pictures but....

 

O.

Is this a good way to remove the wrist pins? I am having to do the same thing but on a 2.2L

If you position the pistons right and have a long enough screw driver or something like it the wrist pins can be "pushed" out from the opposite side. Kind of tricky the first couple of times, but works a lot easier.

Definitely easier to push those wrist pins out with a long screw driver or something similar. I made a nice wrist pin remover with some metal bar I picked up at Home Depot and put a nice lip on with a dremel. That works great for after market wrist pins. Oem ones I just push out from the other side. Just gotta line the pistons up and make sure everything's where it needs to be with a flashlight.