Ripped Inner CV Boot

I just noticed my front passenger CV Boot has a rip in it. Thanks to the wonderful PA roads, I probably have already contaminated the joint and would rather just replace the entire assembly. Only problem is I can source a good/reasonable replacement.

 

The OEM axle is over $300, a far cry higher than the $90 i thought it was going to be. 28321AG00A was the part number I looked up and found out it is superseded by 28321AG00D I also gave Cardone a call and they don't carry anything for the 05 LGT, I would have to send mine in to be rebuilt.

 

Also in my searching it appears they are different parts for the Legacy and Legacy GT.

 

As anyone replaced their CV half shaft with any thing other than an OEM one?

I have seen quite a few customer use them and all of them have had problems with them. They end up having us replace them and some cases I try and get the Firestone or other shop that had them do it, replace them with OEM ones because they have had vibration issues (aftermarket ones tend to be junk).

 

We also tend to replace axle shafts only if there is evidence the fluid has leaked out over a long period of time or they already have failed. Most of the time, we just replace the boot and so far not had a single one come back with a problem.

How much for the boot?

 

Also I have the added security warranty... which so far has not covered anything.

 

According to the info I have in Power Train part 3 under front wheel dive the following is covered, "final drive housing, all internal parts, axle shafts, constant veolocity joints and boots, front hub bearings, double offset joints, seals and gaskets."

 

Does that cover the ripped inner CV Boot?

 

Also is there a walkthrough on doing this labor?

If it isn't too involved I might have to replace it myself.

Yes, the boots themselves are covered under the SAS.

 

They are not covered under powertrain though. Powertrain covers Axles and Axle joints, but not boots.

UPDATE!

 

I arrived at the dealer today ready and happy to drop my car off for a free boot replacement covered under my subaru added security! Nobody covers you like subaru is what it says on my orignal paperowork!

 

After just a couple minutes of paperwork I am asked to sign a work order at a cost to me of $285.

 

Not only did I expect them to tell me it was covered but it was MUCH higher than what people had noted around this forum and higher than the 200 I was quoted by a local mechanic in town.

 

I quickly explained how it was covered under the warranty that I paid 1,800 dollars for back in 2006 when I bought the car new and wanted the full 100k protection.

 

Well not only were the last two things I needed NOT covered but now that this boot was covered it still came with a $100 deductable.

 

After I saw the part online for $44.45 that tells me they still made money on the deal.

 

That confirms my earlier posts and thoughts.

An extended warranty is NEVER a good idea.

 

Dealerships will always try to get out of warranty work and in the end they are making money no matter what.

 

I'm out a $100 but at least the car is fixed and I didn't have to get dirty.

UPDATE!

 

I arrived at the dealer today ready and happy to drop my car off for a free boot replacement covered under my subaru added security! Nobody covers you like subaru is what it says on my orignal paperowork!

 

After just a couple minutes of paperwork I am asked to sign a work order at a cost to me of $285.

 

So did they try to charge you the full repair and not look to see if you have an extended warranty? Sounds like the service dept didn't pull a vehicle inquiry like they should on every vehicle to see if you do have an SAS coverage plan.

 

Not only did I expect them to tell me it was covered but it was MUCH higher than what people had noted around this forum and higher than the 200 I was quoted by a local mechanic in town.

Not every place is going to be the same. I agree that $285 is much higher than most. Sounds like your service advisor was not well versed.

 

I quickly explained how it was covered under the warranty that I paid 1,800 dollars for back in 2006 when I bought the car new and wanted the full 100k protection.

 

Well not only were the last two things I needed NOT covered but now that this boot was covered it still came with a $100 deductable.

 

After I saw the part online for $44.45 that tells me they still made money on the deal.

The boot did not come with a $100 deductible, you chose to have a $100 deductible on your plan. There are $0 ones and $50 ones as well. You just didn't chose them.

 

That confirms my earlier posts and thoughts.

An extended warranty is NEVER a good idea.

 

Dealerships will always try to get out of warranty work and in the end they are making money no matter what.

I disagree being I have seen people save thousands from using that repair. Nothing like getting a transmission for free at 85k.

 

Never assume dealerships will always try to get out of warranty work. I for one like it.

Blame your downpipe for causing the inner boot to tear.

Yes the downpipe is close to the boot. (Bad Design) and all of that heat is the reason why the passenger one always fails and the driver side one is still ok after 56,000 miles.

 

Also in regards to dealerships.

I understand you work at a dealership.

 

I'm not trying to knock what you do or the people you work for.

I finally realized they are in business to make money just like everyone else.

 

I just want them to be good at what they do and fair in the prices they charge.

Then they might get MORE busienss and won't need to charge so much for the business they already get.

 

I have always heard negative things over the years but could never relate because I didn't purchase a brand new car.

 

Well now that I did purchase a new car and have owned it for three years I can start to rely on my own experiences and it is starting to validate those years of bad reports.

 

In addition I have a clsoe friend who worked as a service advisor for several years. In fact he worked at a Subaru dealership.

 

After talking with him about how the business side of the dealership works it has opened up my eyes.

 

I had no idea the service advisors work on commission and the more they charge you for services the more money they make.

 

These guys have daily, weekly, and monthly numbers they are trying to hit.

If they are below their numbers their paycheck gets smaller.

 

Of all people you think I might have realized that because I am 100% commission with my business. If I don't sell products and services I don't eat.

 

They have a "PER VEHICLE" average that they try to maintain.

 

In other words if someone is averaging $600 in service work for every car that drives up then they are constantly trying to keep that nubmer up.

If you show up and need minor work for less money it does not help them.

In fact it could hurt their average number.

 

They need to find and "SELL" you on whatever they can to keep their numbers up.

 

Once I was told this little secret things started to make sense.

 

Now it is obvious why they don't pull that history report with my VIN number until I point it out to them.

 

That is why it is so important that if you are going to take your car to the dealer you need to know your car well and be informed before you show up.

Yes the downpipe is close to the boot. (Bad Design) and all of that heat is the reason why the passenger one always fails and the driver side one is still ok after 56,000 miles.

 

Also in regards to dealerships.

I understand you work at a dealership.

 

I'm not trying to knock what you do or the people you work for.

I finally realized they are in business to make money just like everyone else.

 

I just want them to be good at what they do and fair in the prices they charge.

Then they might get MORE busienss and won't need to charge so much for the business they already get.

 

I have always heard negative things over the years but could never relate because I didn't purchase a brand new car.

 

Well now that I did purchase a new car and have owned it for three years I can start to rely on my own experiences and it is starting to validate those years of bad reports.

 

In addition I have a clsoe friend who worked as a service advisor for several years. In fact he worked at a Subaru dealership.

 

After talking with him about how the business side of the dealership works it has opened up my eyes.

 

I had no idea the service advisors work on commission and the more they charge you for services the more money they make.

 

These guys have daily, weekly, and monthly numbers they are trying to hit.

If they are below their numbers their paycheck gets smaller.

 

Of all people you think I might have realized that because I am 100% commission with my business. If I don't sell products and services I don't eat.

 

They have a "PER VEHICLE" average that they try to maintain.

 

In other words if someone is averaging $600 in service work for every car that drives up then they are constantly trying to keep that nubmer up.

If you show up and need minor work for less money it does not help them.

In fact it could hurt their average number.

 

They need to find and "SELL" you on whatever they can to keep their numbers up.

 

Once I was told this little secret things started to make sense.

 

Now it is obvious why they don't pull that history report with my VIN number until I point it out to them.

 

That is why it is so important that if you are going to take your car to the dealer you need to know your car well and be informed before you show up.

 

All of that is true, except some places are not commission. I am commission, but I still pull every vehicle inquiry up on a customer because I might find an open recall on their car they were not aware of. Warranty is warranty and to me it is free work.

 

Yes my GM and Director have a monthly projection(that is what it is) and some months I hit it, some I don't. I don't focus on it because frankly, It is something you can not get wrapped around the axle over. I focus on my CSI. I want my customers to be happier more than my dealership hitting projection each month. Plus I can't control projections, but I can certainly control how happy my customers are.

 

Believe it or not, I also turn work away, because I feel the customer can save money on tires elsewhere or other parts, or they may not need something repairs just yet and they can week. That is probably why I have tons of repeat business because I am honest and upfront to them.

To update the thread, I replaced the axle with a re-manufactured one from Axle's Unlimited.

hey black fank... your avatar is really scarry but it sounds like you are a good guy and treat customers well....

 

thanks for keeping it real

hey black fank... your avatar is really scarry but it sounds like you are a good guy and treat customers well....

 

thanks for keeping it real

Stephen Kings IT

 

I try to be as honest and upfront as i can. Sometimes it upsets customers because it is not what they want to hear, but they should hear it.

I had my inner boot replaced under warranty only about 700 miles ago.

 

Car is at 72,800 miles right now and I have the GOLD warranty with $0 deductible.

 

At first they said $200 to replace it and I surprisingly asked "doesn't the warranty cover it" where they replied saying no the 60k powertrain doesn't and I said I have the GOLD and they said well then yeah its covered.

 

Go figure..

subscribe.

To update the thread, I replaced the axle with a re-manufactured one from Axle's Unlimited.

 

 

Puzzled, how is the axle doing so far and how much was it from Axles Unlimited? Is this the place out of Charlotte NC?

I just ordered one from Axle's Unlimited and will report back how it goes.

GO FOR THE GOLD! It's the only way....

 

but I don't have it..

I just went under my car to check the A/C drain tube, because I read that thread last night. And guess what? Strange greasy gray substance all over the DP and surrounding parts. Having just done the major service at 30K(435 mi.back), the boots were something that I checked. No prob then, but split all the way around the bottom of the innermost fold now. DP heat sounds like a likely contributor.

 

Boy, I'm so glad I bought a low mileage "dependable" Subie.(sarcasm) For a third of what I spent, I could have fixed up my old van to perfection and known it was all good. Because I would have done it all myself.

 

I really loved this car, but stress from BS like this is driving me nuts.

 

@ BlackFang, I assume this means pulling the whole wheel ass'm like most others?

Can the boot be changed without pulling the inner drive cup from the diff?

Any danger points to watch out for? I'm a qualified mech, but still not to familiar with my Subie.

 

Unfortunately, I'm getting there way to fast.

Well, just got off the phone with Bird Road Subaru and sure enough, not covered. $270 for them to do it.

 

THE CAR ONLY HAS 30,435 ON IT!!

 

What a joke; on me.

 

I wonder if this failure is more common on OB's, since their higher ride height flexes the boots more? Mine is in no way road damage, the boot is perfect accept for being split right at the bottom of the inner V.

 

I think it must have just let go, since I haven't smelled anything, and what's on the DP doesn't seem burned on.

 

Hopefully that means I can just change the boot. Even though that's still a pile of work, it ain't like I haven't been there before.

 

Desperate for your tips, BF. I don't want to pull the inner cup unless I absolutely have to. Past experience tells me that's where the trouble usually starts.

 

I had to drop the tranny on an Escort last year, and ended up taking out the whole front subframe because the driver side axle just would not pop out of the transaxle. Right side came right out, but of course, it wasn't the one with the clearance issue.

Hey DagnWagn,

 

 

Don't know what other problems you've had but this inner CV boot was one of the only problems I've seen with the car.

 

Do you have an aftermarket DP?

 

Interestingly enough even with my COBB DB, UP, and Borla CBE the dealer changed my Inner Boot under warranty.

 

They never even mentioned the mods.

 

It sounds like people with stock DP are not seeing the inner boot rip.

So I can't even blame that one on Subaru.

 

 

My sister had the SAME exact car with 10,000 more miles and the boot was perfect.

 

 

Just make sure you get the seals and rings on right.

The first time I had the boot fixed it leaked a just the smallest amount.

I took it back and they confirmed one of the rings wasn't set right.

 

It's been perfect for a long time now!

 

I just went under my car to check the A/C drain tube, because I read that thread last night. And guess what? Strange greasy gray substance all over the DP and surrounding parts. Having just done the major service at 30K(435 mi.back), the boots were something that I checked. No prob then, but split all the way around the bottom of the innermost fold now. DP heat sounds like a likely contributor.

 

Boy, I'm so glad I bought a low mileage "dependable" Subie.(sarcasm) For a third of what I spent, I could have fixed up my old van to perfection and known it was all good. Because I would have done it all myself.

 

I really loved this car, but stress from BS like this is driving me nuts.

 

@ BlackFang, I assume this means pulling the whole wheel ass'm like most others?

Can the boot be changed without pulling the inner drive cup from the diff?

Any danger points to watch out for? I'm a qualified mech, but still not to familiar with my Subie.

 

Unfortunately, I'm getting there way to fast.

Yeah its a wear item because crap can hit it and depending on where you drive and how the roads are this is a hit or miss thing for most people. Mine I had to also replace which sucked.

Car is bone stock, except for intake silencer delete.

 

I just called them back to check that price($270), and it turns out that's just the labor. The axle ass'm is another $360 or so.

 

Boot kit=$16. Here's hoping that's all I need. Doing it myself, no doubt. Frankly, I don't trust another mech to touch my car, least of all some dealer donk.

 

Problem is, it'll have to wait some since I have to work outside, and the weather craps up with very annoying unpredictability down here.

 

Can't leave something that major torn up in the driveway for long or I risk taking crap from code enforcement. I already do more than I'm really "allowed" to, so I'm sure I'm on their "watch list".

 

I guess I'll look into fabbing some sort of heat shield for it, if there's room. They sure love to cram hot parts right up against things that shouldn't be cooked, example the oil filter with the exhaust pipe wrapped all around it.

 

Off topic, but does anyone know if the oil filter is plumbed right to the block? It looks like it's fed by external lines. If so, it could surely be moved to a remote location that's not going to cook the oil.

 

That location certainly can't help the oil issues these cars have.

Car is bone stock with less than 31,000 miles.

That is not right.

 

I feel for you.

 

Is your car that different than a legacy?

 

I'm looking at my bill right now.

 

Parts Total was 42.24

That includes 14.77 boot, 2.40 band axle boot, 2.34 band axle SFT boot, Grease Drive Shaft 80G 18.41 and a axle nut m22 oil 4.32.

 

Labor Total: 98.00.

 

 

Again, they are just fixing the boken boot.

Cleaning if needed and loading up with new grease.

 

That's it.

 

 

anything over 300 seems VERY over priced and unreasonable.

Try another dealer.

 

Don't know about Miami but here in Cali I am lucky to have 4 dealers I could drive to in about 30 minutes.

 

 

Total charges out the door were 140.24.

 

I have a 100k warranty and they honored that even wit mods and I only paid the deductable which is 100. out the door....

 

still not cool for an 18 dollar part....but it could have been worse...

(my mileage was 56k)

maybe this is something I got warrantied after all? hmmm I really don't remember. I'd have to look through the records and see.