Energyblue98 Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 I know this is a pretty basic operation. But I had to change my rotors yesterday so I figured I'd just film it and throw up a video. Posting it here just for the record for when someone new to mechanics can have an easier way to start off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nba0203 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 funny how im about to change out my rotors thanks for the video. you should make one on how to remove the front bumper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 I just make these videos as i do repairs on my cars.. What ever breaks is what i do next haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08qsm Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Perfectly done video. Only one question, where'd you get that grille!? Thanks for putting this together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uptown4784 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Thanks for video. I'll be changing my pads tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toolbox1 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I just did my fronts yesterday lol. Timely video! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted April 7, 2015 Author Share Posted April 7, 2015 Perfectly done video. Only one question, where'd you get that grille!? Thanks for putting this together It's a JDM front grille I believe. Check the for sale section here and you'll see things pop up for it every now and then. They're pretty pricey though.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Good video overall, I would have cleaned and re-lubed the slider pins though! 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uptown4784 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 what did u use to remove 2nd rotor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Good video overall, I would have cleaned and re-lubed the slider pins though! Not a bad idea what did u use to remove 2nd rotor? A standard pully puller, I believe i got that one at harbor freight for about $10. It screws into the two screw holes in the rotors, and then you tighten the center down which pushed against the axle and it pulls the rotor off of the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 You didn't lube the guide pins. Necessary in my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I also like to lube the slide pins, just make sure you get the rubber boot's back on good so they seal well. I also use 8mm x 1.25 bolts to back the rotor's off the hubs, lube the threads with PB Blaster and anti-seize compound before putting the bolts into the threads. Also put anti-seize compound on all the bolts and nuts on the car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 I also like to lube the slide pins, just make sure you get the rubber boot's back on good so they seal well. I also use 8mm x 1.25 bolts to back the rotor's off the hubs, lube the threads with PB Blaster and anti-seize compound before putting the bolts into the threads. Also put anti-seize compound on all the bolts and nuts on the car. I used those bolts to back off the second rotor, I didn't use anti-seize because I like to make sure they stay put. see'ing that they are brakes I don't want the chance of anything backing itself off. Just a personal preference but it works either way. In my opinion the car isn't old enough to worry about bolts getting stuck or heads breaking off, my car is also a southern car so i don't have much rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I have never had any bolt or nut loosen from using anti-seize. It keeps the threads from rusting, it doesn't cause then to loosen. I even put it on my lug nuts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 i have never had any bolt or nut loosen from using anti-seize. It keeps the threads from rusting, it doesn't cause then to loosen. I even put it on my lug nuts. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 Lugnuts on the right side will tighten themselves anyway. The old Chryslers used to have left-hand thread on the left side lugnuts because of this. Another one of those great automotive ideas that was forgotten over time. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 I have never had any bolt or nut loosen from using anti-seize. It keeps the threads from rusting, it doesn't cause then to loosen. I even put it on my lug nuts. Interesting thought. I recently had the lug nuts back off after torquing them to 82 lb/ft. Followed up with a manual as-tight-as-I-can wrenching. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raybonz Posted September 21, 2015 Share Posted September 21, 2015 Outstanding video! That's one of the best instructional video's I have seen in a long time. Thanks for posting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnQx25 Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 solid video, I'll probably be using it this weekend. *Any major differences between the 4th Gen brakes and the 5th Gen ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Energyblue98 Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 solid video, I'll probably be using it this weekend. *Any major differences between the 4th Gen brakes and the 5th Gen ?? I have not worked on a 5th gen so I cannot verify that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senzhu Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Update link pls Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Which links, the video in the OP worked for me. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsports Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Ah memories. Doing my fronts again tomorrow. Decent video, helpful for a first timer. Torque specs for anyone who is interested. Caliper bolts are 19.9 ft lbs Caliper support bolts are 88.5 ft lbs Wheel lugs about 75 ft lbs... 90-100 Is way too tight. If you have to use a hammer to loosen the Caliper bolts - they are too tight. Admittedly, I don't torque my caliper support bolts to 88.5 ft lbs because frankly, its not needed. 30-50 is good and makes them a hell of a lot easier to remove next time. I am all for greasing the pins the caliper assembly floats on and I put anti-seize on everything which again helps with removal next time. Lug nuts get small bit of anti-seize occasionally. I live in CA. Rust and corrosion is not a problem here. No snow/salt in nor-cal where I live. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Ah memories. Doing my fronts again tomorrow. Decent video, helpful for a first timer. Torque specs for anyone who is interested. Caliper bolts are 19.9 ft lbs Caliper support bolts are 88.5 ft lbs Wheel lugs about 75 ft lbs... 90-100 Is way too tight…... 88.5 ft-lb will strip the bolts. 59 ft-lb is the correct spec. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-caliper-bolt-torque-specs-186205.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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