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Intercooler suggestions


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You don't need an intercooler, but it'll run more efficiently given the amount of boost you run thru it (i.e. 10psi intercooled will give you more power than 10psi of heated induction from the engine). That will work, but this is a big project that you're getting into. Is the 2.2 built? Will you have all necessary mounting brackets and hoses for the intercooler? BOV?
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The EJ22T pistons will work, but if you're going to go that far you'd want to switch to the EJ22T heads as well. They have a different valve angle that makes shrouding a concern, but they are a better match for the lower compression EJ22T pistons and they prevent engine damage should the timing belt let go. If you get the EJ22T heads complete off eBay you can smooth out the ports or have them ported. Plus, you don't have to worry about camshafts because you'll already have a set included with the heads. Just be careful, some of the heads you'll find on eBay might be serious need of a valve job.

 

All in all, slapping a turbo onto a car isn't as easy as it looks. I wanna say that a lot of young people think they can just slap a turbo on a car with 150K miles and start hitting 60 in 5.5 seconds. That isn't the case. If you're going to put a turbo on a car there are serious factors to consider. One being the boost. Especially on a standard open deck EJ22 block, you might not want to push it. 6-8 pounds maximum on a used-and-abused open deck EJ22. Next is the quality of the components. You can buy a knock off Mitsubishi turbo on eBay for $40. You can also spend an entire weekend tearing the motor apart trying to get the chunks of turbo out of your engine and seeing what's salvageable. Cheap turbo parts are worse than leaving the car stock in many cases. Then there is the problem of part interchangeability. It would probably be easier to fabricate your own brackets and hooking everything up from scratch than trying to mismatch parts to get things to work. The best bet for getting the turbo installed is an exhaust shop. Do the intake side yourself, then have an exhaust shop weld you up a professional set of headers, an up pipe, and a down pipe.

 

In short, this isn't a cheap build. If you're going to tear the motor in half (Literally, Subaru motors have block halves rather than traditional "Bottom Ends") you should go all out. New crank bearings, new overbore pistons, full gasket set, head gaskets, timing belt, water pump, idlers, spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel injectors, the whole 9 yards. Some of these parts you wil NEED to replace, like gaskets, the timing belt, some bolts, ect. If you're going to install new pistons, you should really have the block honed at the very least. And if you're going to tear the motor apart, why leave the original crank bearings? If you're going to do the crank bearings, why not have the crank polished? Its a lot of work. There's no real way to "Slap a turbo on your N/A car". At least not if you want it to work right and be durable. If you want to turbo an old, tired motor you're asking for trouble.

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+1

 

I starting to gather parts to build my motor. All the machine work will be free but the parts will be insane, like 2.5k. Its not cheap to have the best lol

 

This gives you an idea of what a good motor build will cost. Plus machine work

http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=9&idproduct=102

http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=7&idproduct=118

http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=7&idproduct=87

 

This is the high end of the parts but it could be up for 8.5k for a solid motor you could throw 25 lbs of boost at and not worry about it.

 

^ that x124958726345623456
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The EJ22T pistons will work, but if you're going to go that far you'd want to switch to the EJ22T heads as well. They have a different valve angle that makes shrouding a concern, but they are a better match for the lower compression EJ22T pistons and they prevent engine damage should the timing belt let go. If you get the EJ22T heads complete off eBay you can smooth out the ports or have them ported. Plus, you don't have to worry about camshafts because you'll already have a set included with the heads. Just be careful, some of the heads you'll find on eBay might be serious need of a valve job.

 

All in all, slapping a turbo onto a car isn't as easy as it looks. I wanna say that a lot of young people think they can just slap a turbo on a car with 150K miles and start hitting 60 in 5.5 seconds. That isn't the case. If you're going to put a turbo on a car there are serious factors to consider. One being the boost. Especially on a standard open deck EJ22 block, you might not want to push it. 6-8 pounds maximum on a used-and-abused open deck EJ22. Next is the quality of the components. You can buy a knock off Mitsubishi turbo on eBay for $40. You can also spend an entire weekend tearing the motor apart trying to get the chunks of turbo out of your engine and seeing what's salvageable. Cheap turbo parts are worse than leaving the car stock in many cases. Then there is the problem of part interchangeability. It would probably be easier to fabricate your own brackets and hooking everything up from scratch than trying to mismatch parts to get things to work. The best bet for getting the turbo installed is an exhaust shop. Do the intake side yourself, then have an exhaust shop weld you up a professional set of headers, an up pipe, and a down pipe.

 

In short, this isn't a cheap build. If you're going to tear the motor in half (Literally, Subaru motors have block halves rather than traditional "Bottom Ends") you should go all out. New crank bearings, new overbore pistons, full gasket set, head gaskets, timing belt, water pump, idlers, spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel injectors, the whole 9 yards. Some of these parts you wil NEED to replace, like gaskets, the timing belt, some bolts, ect. If you're going to install new pistons, you should really have the block honed at the very least. And if you're going to tear the motor apart, why leave the original crank bearings? If you're going to do the crank bearings, why not have the crank polished? Its a lot of work. There's no real way to "Slap a turbo on your N/A car". At least not if you want it to work right and be durable. If you want to turbo an old, tired motor you're asking for trouble.

 

 

Just this quote should be stickied. It sums up everything you want to know about turboing a n/a motor. Great information. Makes me wish I wasn't so poor/college bound so I could tear into a project like this :rolleyes: I want to learn about it all.

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I have bought ej22t pistons rods and crankshaft, fuel injectors, water pump, LH1 stock turbo, Vortech fpr, wrx fuel pump and, wrx intercooler, custom up and downpipe. So what I need- acl bearings?, piston rings and standalone or piggyback ecu, head gaskets and, ej22t heads. Is there a better sohc head i could use with those pistons?

Thanks

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The more money you spend on bearings the better. Even good bearings are relatively cheap in comparison to some of the other parts of the project so I wouldn't skimp out on them.

 

Have the crank you bought measured. They may have to do some machine work on it if its scored. If they need to do some machine work on the crank you'll need different size main bearings. same with rod bearings. Get good rod bearings too and see if you can get ARP studs for the rods. The last thing you want is for this project to throw a rod on its first trip to 6K RPM.

 

If you've already bought EJ22T pistons you might have problems. Stock size pistons will fit in the bore, but if your cylinders aren't in tip top shape they won't seal combustion gases correctly. At the VERY LEAST you need to hone the cylinders. If the cylinder bore has opened up beyond tolerance you will need to have it bored, honed, and oversize pistons installed. Since this is an open deck build you don't want to go crazy with the overbore. 0.010 should get you a clean consistent surface on a used EJ22 without comprimising strength. The thinner you go on the cylinder walls the less likely the engine will be to stand up to boost and RPM band you're looking for. Subaru provides information on their motors such as the maximum acceptable bearing and bore tolerances, but those tolerances were designed for N/A engines, not turbo motors. Have the machine shop stay on the conservative side with anything they do to the top end of the motor.

 

As far as gaskets go, you'll need an entire set for pretty much the entire motor if you want to avoid leaks. There's not much you're going to leave alone on this motor, so every gasket you remove should have its mating surfaces scraped and new gaskets installed if you want to avoid leakage.

 

If you want, you can put DOHC EJ25 heads on the EJ22. Not sure how well the valve reliefs in the pistons line up or if they're a good match. Most people who do all out builds like this with DOHC heads would also have custom pistons. DOHC heads reduce reciprocating mass and increase rotating mass. In my opinion, pushrod engines as well as SOHC engines with rocker arms like the EJ22 have crisper throttle response than DOHC engines. They also net better results on a flow bench with stock ports. I'm not sure where the EJ22 would get its power with stock EJ25 cams, but if I had to venture a guess I would say it's probably a little higher on the RPM band than stock SOHC heads.

 

If you decide to swap the Phase II EJ22 heads you have now with Phase I EJ22T heads you'll also have hydraulic lash adjusters. These tend to cause float past 6,500-7K RPMs, so keep this in mind. Usually this isn't a problem but its something to consider if you're looking for maximum top end power.

 

I would leave the intake alone. As far as I know (I may be wrong) the manifolds are more or less the same.

 

It would be beneficial to get a stock size lightweight crank pulley and an MSD coil too. Not required but beneficial if you're left with surplus cash after the internal motor build. I'm never one to advocate underdrive pulley's, but I think Perrin makes a stock size lightweight crank pulley that looks mighty inciting without compromising the performance of belt-driven parts.

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My throttle is in the way of my bov. I know this is a junker and my car is an auto so its even more pointless but i think it may be the easiest solution. Its atmospheric.. What do you think

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-Subaru-Impreza-Wrx-Turbo-Blow-Off-Valve-BOV-EJ20-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem483c05bd58QQitemZ310244654424QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3196wt_683

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