5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

also, was there any noticeable slipping or other indications of very worn clutches?

any interest in performing the job for others?

Holy moly. Any context? How was the car driven and maintained? What power levels, etc? In other words what conditions led to this outcome?

Car was driven pretty good. I jammed around on it in manual mode constantly. No kid gloves.

WOT in 5th seemed to start the dominoes falling after a JMP Turbo upgrade, 3 port BCS and an eTune. After that 4th and even sometimes 3rd would slip. You could feel it just 'let go' at full throttle (or 75%) this is all well after the gear had shifted, not during a shift.

1st and 2nd were perfectly fine. And everything seemed normal under regular DD type driving.

I did a half trans fluid flush right when I got the car at 100k, it was stock, never modified before I touched it.

I'm not really sure of the power levels, I'm guessing 275-280 hp based on the MAF numbers.

also, was there any noticeable slipping or other indications of very worn clutches?

 

any interest in performing the job for others?

Lol, You are the second person to ask about doing other 5eats.

I'm just an adventurous noob. I don't have any warranties, and if something went wrong I'd have some seriously happy people on my hands. Just to make it worth my while I'd need to charge at least 65% of what a professional shop charges. Like $1000 - $2000, and you could do it with your time and probably $300-500 depending on if you have broken things and want those upgraded diff bushings from HexMods (you do )

But, up to this point it has really not been THAT difficult. No special tools really. Once the front diff is off, it all comes apart like one of those russian doll sets.

All the snap rings just pop right out with a flat screw driver.

Keep an eye on my build thread and I'll post some part numbers and any other problems I run into.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ld-251969.html

I finally opened up all the clutch packs (really not that hard - it all comes out in tidy little chunks).

 

Front Brake - Pretty good condition compared to some of the others, but you can see a little burning around the centers.

[ATTACH]228564[/ATTACH]

 

 

Input Clutch - Definitely the source of the majority of my problems. This one is by far the worst. It doesn't even have any 'tread' left on it. The surface was gritty and crumbling. I could probably replace just this pack and call the whole job done.

[ATTACH]228567[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]228568[/ATTACH]

 

 

High/Low/(Rev?) - This one is not looking too good either, almost black. Many of the steels had these black marks on them, but they are almost perfectly smooth.

[ATTACH]228565[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]228566[/ATTACH]

 

 

Direct Clutch - also mostly black. The one friction on the end(right side of pic) still has a little red left in it. I doubt that one was pulling its weight

[ATTACH]228569[/ATTACH]

 

 

Reverse - As Climber said, they are just find and don't need replacing.

[ATTACH]228570[/ATTACH]

 

 

Transfer clutches (in the rear extension) - no pics, but they looked good like the reverse clutches.

 

So the last 2 packs(Forward and Low Coast) seem much more 'burried'. They are in the back of the main trans housing. and I'm hoping I don't need to get in there, even for inspection. I think that is where all the bits start falling out.

 

So Climber, do you think I can gamble on the Forward pack as good? -based on what I have found so far?

 

Should I replace those steels?

Great job!

Replace all the steels that have those hotspots. Replace any frictions that don't look nearly new.

Nothing really surprising here, just some nice wear.

This trans got hot, but not as bad as others.

95% chance you don't need to go deeper. Things start to get difficult when you go deeper. Your forward clutch pack is probably fine, and your low coast brake is irrelevant.

Put reverse back in, start buying parts

5EAT Rebuild thread started. Lots of pics.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/jayrex-5eat-rebuild-251969.html

 

While installing the diff bushings I found a broken gear on the intermediate shaft.

I could use some help sourcing a used replacement. Looks like they are $290 from Subaru new.

 

I did find out it is the same shaft for pretty much every 5AT trans subaru makes.

 

EDIT: Nevermind, found it here for $215. Credit to another thread. Apparently I'm not the first to have this issue.

https://subaruonlineparts.com/oemparts/33257AA060

 

Wish I could find a used one for $50 thou.

I have a bunch, but better to get new, and send it out for metalurgical treatments. I can help with that. You probably also have damaged or weakened center diff pinion (planet) gears. Inspect and probably wise to replace those too.

The first??? :lol::lol::lol::lol:

I sell these (upgraded) center diff gear sets routinely! Those teeth on that gear shaft are the first last and only thing to break mechanically in this trans.

Sorry yours is broken, that's a bummer.

The first??? :lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

I sell these (upgraded) center diff gear sets routinely! Those teeth on that gear shaft are the first last and only thing to break mechanically in this trans.

 

Sorry yours is broken, that's a bummer.

Yeah, at first I didn't even realize that shaft was THE part, and THE reason for a diff upgrade. I thought it was all about crappy soft needle bearings breaking. At least I already have a solution.

Looking for the Transgo instructions for the 5EAT kit, or just the drilling info, given ClimberD's amazing walk through; thanks guys!

I am also curious about this because I actually bought the RE5R05A TransGo kit because it was $50 cheaper. From what I've read, the only thing different is the instructions? Also in his guide, I think ClimberD said the drilling steps were pointless. I was just going to use that 'schweet' walkthrough. Going to try and tackle that install this weekend.

Yeah, at first I didn't even realize that shaft was THE part, and THE reason for a diff upgrade. I thought it was all about crappy soft needle bearings breaking. At least I already have a solution.

Yup, bit more to it than that. The gear teeth are physically the weakest link in the power train, but there are several things that actually happen when a lot of torque is loaded and failure occurs.

Kind of like if you have bad knee pain there are many things you can do to improve it, from increasing mobility to strengthening the joint, to taking advil, to realizing your ankles and hips might be the problem thereby causing the tension up or down the kinetic chain. And then the number of fixes compounds to be so many, and you don't know whether the chiropractor or doctor or personal trainer or yoga teacher is the right one since each one has solved it in a different way.

That's why I keep saying cryo, even though you just installed the bushings. Rarely is someone holding a diff input shaft in new condition without a huge time crunch to get the car back together. As a 5EAT healthcare consultant, I care about fixing this issue probably more than the average 5EAT driver who just broke the diff and just wants their car back. Totally get it.

Looking for the Transgo instructions for the 5EAT kit, or just the drilling info, given ClimberD's amazing walk through; thanks guys!

I am also curious about this because I actually bought the RE5R05A TransGo kit because it was $50 cheaper. From what I've read, the only thing different is the instructions? Also in his guide, I think ClimberD said the drilling steps were pointless. I was just going to use that 'schweet' walkthrough. Going to try and tackle that install this weekend.

I should have a copy on my computer, send me your emails.

I called a local shop and they quoted me around $260 for a drain and fill and $280 if I don't have a drain plug and they have to take the pan off. Clearly its cheaper to do it myself but my question is, do i have a drain plug or just a pan? If I have a drain plug, do I need a special tool to get it off? Obviously I have never done a ATF change but I have changed the engine oil plenty but is it as easy as that? Drain, new filter, add fluid all done?

Also, how much ATF can I expect to come out?

Sorry for the noob questions. I don't want to screw this up

I called a local shop and they quoted me around $260 for a drain and fill and $280 if I don't have a drain plug and they have to take the pan off. Clearly its cheaper to do it myself but my question is, do i have a drain plug or just a pan? If I have a drain plug, do I need a special tool to get it off? Obviously I have never done a ATF change but I have changed the engine oil plenty but is it as easy as that? Drain, new filter, add fluid all done?

 

Also, how much ATF can I expect to come out?

 

Sorry for the noob questions. I don't want to screw this up

89 posts, seller and been on here a few years. Shouldn't be a noob any more.

Might want to add your car info.

4 - 5 quarts should come out.

You should have a drain plug. It's pretty easy to change. Check the dipstick first to make sure you are full. Drain the old fluid, make sure to catch the old ATF in a container with measurements (that way you know how much to put back in). Put plug back in and fill up the tranny fluid with the same amount that came out (make sure it's not the diff you are pouring it into). You'll probably want a nice LONG funnel to get down to the fill hole. Drive it a bit, check the level, top off if needed.

Don't bother with the filter, supposed to be lifetime.

May want to do a couple back to back drain and fills so that you get as much fresh fluid in there. Total capacity is about 10 quarts and you can only get 4-5 out at one time, most is trapped in the converter.

Or just go do a proper flush, costs about $100. Valvoline synthetic fluid is Subaru ATF-HP compatible, so find a good Valvoline place you trust and let them do it. OR source your own fluid and find a local trans shop with a fluid exchange machine on site.

Makes more sense than crawling around the car at least 3 times to do it right.

May want to do a couple back to back drain and fills so that you get as much fresh fluid in there. Total capacity is about 10 quarts and you can only get 4-5 out at one time, most is trapped in the converter.

 

Or just go do a proper flush, costs about $100. Valvoline synthetic fluid is Subaru ATF-HP compatible, so find a good Valvoline place you trust and let them do it. OR source your own fluid and find a local trans shop with a fluid exchange machine on site.

Makes more sense than crawling around the car at least 3 times to do it right.

hopefully no one is FLUSHING the tranny. Bad idea and one of the easiest ways to have to rebuild/swap trannys. Just drain and fill.

I've seen some posts about turning on the car after draining and going through the gears a few times to get some additional fluid out. Any idea if that applies to the 5EAT as well?

I'm not sure I would want the torque converter spinning with the pan empty. Couldn't that mess up the pump, also?

But, to answer your question, I have no idea.

There was a full self-flush method outlined at some point where you unhook one of the lines (going into the radiator, maybe?), run it into a bucket with measuring lines, and then turn the car on. Turn the car off when you hit some amount of quarts in the bucket, pour some amount of quarts back into the trans, repeat until fluid looks clean going into the bucket.

ClimberD DIY. Finally found it. I guess pull one of the cooler lines and go through the gears to flush it out. I only have 35k on my 3.6, so a few drain and should be enough. Though I would like to get out as much as possible...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-5eat-atf-flush-197248.html

Thanks for the info. I'm glad to hear it's simple. Even easier than an oil change since I don't have to change the filter.

Again, thanks

Im fine with multiple drain and fills to get out all the bad but on the final fill up what ATF do you guys recommend?

I pulled my engine harness today to clean it up and clean the rest of the engine bay.

Compaired to my JDM lgt/5eat harness the JDM one has 4 extra wires going to the transmission. Does anyone know what these are for?

hopefully no one is FLUSHING the tranny. Bad idea and one of the easiest ways to have to rebuild/swap trannys. Just drain and fill.

Yes, I used a bad term because it implies pressure. It's just jargon.

What we mean when we say flush it is basically using a fluid exchange machine to feed fresh fluid in and allow the old to train out.

Most modern transmission fluid machines work under this principle. They don't pressurize the fluid, they allow the transmission's own pump to suck up fresh fluid and the old one is routed out.

Power flushes, reverse flushes, those are harmful.

So my 20g twinscroll met an untimely death when the clamp bolt broke and bent a few turbine fins. So rather than fix it it's being upgraded.

New turbo will be a 60-1 twinscroll with 9 blade turbine.

Car will be tuned on 91oct.

Countdown to transmission/rear diff explosion?

Hi,

Could you confirm me that ATF service change oil in the gearbox but in the torque converter too ?

and what do the Control Valve Body ?

Thanks by advance