headgasket problems

my fear has been realized, i have to replace my headgaskets on my 97 legacy gt 2.5L engine. can anyone give me a hand as to where to start with this project. any links, advice, or instructions would be much appreciated

 

thanks guys!

Pull the motor if you can. You can do the headgasket replacement with a basic set of tools. The only "special" tools you need are a 14mm 12 star socket and a torque wrench that can do 10-100ish ftlb. Buy a haynes manual and download the factory service manual.

this would make a great sticky for someone to make. not me. im noob

Maybe I will take pictures of the rebuild process for the headgaskets on the motor I am doing a complete rebuild on

No offense to OP or anyone else, but if you NEED a picture tutorial to do an engine job, you should NOT be doing an engine job.

 

O.

no offense brok, but it is not TDC. please edit your post and i will do the same here.

 

the correct timing marks will place all 4 pistons at mid stroke. two heading up and two heading down (or more correctly in and out). that way no matter what the cams/valves do they will not touch the pistons, assuming that is possible and i'm not sure it is on the ej25d.

 

folks who work on other makes of cars always use the term TDC. it must be a standard when putting on most timing belts, but it is not appropriate for subarus. there is a mark on the crank for TDC, but it is not used for installing the timing belt. TDC will place 2 pistons right next to the heads. not an ideal position for an interference engine.

 

 

for beginners:

if you have never done a timing belt on a subaru, regardless of how many other cars and trucks, head jobs or total rebuilds you have done, DO NOT assume you can get the timing right just by looking at the sprockets. the marks are mis-leading unless you have done your home work and KNOW what you are looking for.

 

for some folks, even after they have been told twice that they probably used the wrong marks, they still swear up and down the belt and the timing is right. then they learn it is not right. using the wrong timing marks can bend valves costing a lot of time and money.

Here is link to FSM and other material that will guide you through.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/

 

Use ziploc type bags to hold screws etc as you remove. Label each bag.

Take pics of engine before you start, especially the hose routings. it will save you time on reassembly.

Do search both here and SLI and Nasioc, there have been some helpful threads there.

 

Depending on mileage, you might as well do t belt, pulleys, and water pump. Tighten screws on back of oil pump.and tighten screws on oil separator plate on back of block. Leave the rear main seal alone if it is not leaking.

If you have a plastic separator plate, replace with the now standard metal one.

 

O.