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SPT CBE components and install notes.


tetsulo

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Hi everyone, my SPT CBE arrived and I went and picked it up at the dealer. I don't think they were amused when I told them I was going to handle the install. (Lets just say they were trying stimulate the economy and leave it at that). Well 1.5hrs later I had it all mated up and installed.

 

Fit and finish is perfect -- it fits in the bumper cut outs much better than the stock exhaust and I am very pleased so far with the sound. I'll be driving to Hartford tomorrow so I look forward to some highways miles.

 

My question is this. The system came with new bolts and gaskets to mate the mufflers to the pipe -- But the box did not contain bolts or a gasket to connect the pipe to the cat (the ones with the springs) or any kind of instructions or a packing list. The box was very banged up with holes all over it. I reused the stock bolts/and exhaust donut (I'm guessing as I didn't take it off and seemed to be on there pretty good) that I had as they seem to be in OK shape but I was curious as to whether I should have received those in the package.

 

I would call the dealer and ask but I have a feeling they aren't going to be too helpful right now.

 

Thanks!

 

Matt

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Nope. No spring loaded bolts or ring gasket. My SPT exhaust came without the spring bolts or the ring gasket too. I opened the box at the stealership and had them load the pieces into my car. Good thing the back seat on the '08s drops forward. You are just supposed to reuse those parts. I replaced the ring gasket when I changed the DP. I still used the same spring bolts after the DP install.
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Thanks -- I'm glad I got everything I was supposed to then. The drive down to Hartford was great today. It sounds SO good at 80mph :) Any chance you have a PN for the ring gasket?

 

Matt

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Sorry, not off the top of my head. Any dealership will know what you are talking about if you ask. Fred Beans is a vendor on the board and is a dealership, Jeremy will have it. The gasket is fairly tough (its asbestos) so unless you damaged it you should be fine. Mine never leaked. I only replaced mine with the down pipe because Jeremy included it when I bought it.
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Sound is very nice. Have had compliments from other Legacy drivers. My wife drives a '05 LGT (stock) and she loves the sound of my car. Not too loud inside, but you know its there. On the highway you don't even notice it.
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Hows the sound? Is it too loud in the cabin? Any highway drone?

 

Definately no drone at least not what I think of as drone. It's growly and loud when your on the gas and comfortable while cruising -- which is what I was hoping for. A friend of mine who drives a new Civic SI is jealous of the sound. When I get back into town were going to swap cars and do some drive bys so we can hear our cars from the outside.

 

My wife hates it but she also puts the car into I mode whenever she drives it and still calls it zippy :)

 

I expect it will mellow out more as exhaust deposits cover the tubes and the mufflers break in.

 

My only thought is that the car feels a little slower to me -- I think it's cause I expect more acceleration due to the extra sound.

 

I might have to do something about that.

 

Matt

Quality is top notch.

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My only thought is that the car feels a little slower to me -- I think it's cause I expect more acceleration due to the extra sound.

 

I might have to do something about that.

 

Matt

Quality is top notch.

 

 

Get a tune. Engine mods never reach their potential without the proper tune. Some even make the motor unsafe without a tune. If you just have the exhaust try a stage 1 tune. There's a free map from mickeyd around here on the forum somewhere. All you need is a Tactrix cable and a laptop, the software is free. :)

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Get a tune. Engine mods never reach their potential without the proper tune. Some even make the motor unsafe without a tune. If you just have the exhaust try a stage 1 tune. There's a free map from mickeyd around here on the forum somewhere. All you need is a Tactrix cable and a laptop, the software is free. :)

 

A tune is needed for the CBE? I figured that's a passive part of the exhaust system.

 

Long term plans for my car (maybe by next summer) for performance mods are the Perrin ELH, Perrin UP/Down an Access Port and a stage 1 tune for 93 octane gas. From what I can tell the stock airbox doesn't become a problem till stage 2 or higher and I am not a big fan of huge intake noise...

 

Not engine related but I will also swap out front/rear sway bars.

What I can't figure out is if I would/will experience that boost creep condition by changing the up/down pipes. I need to keep the car legal and plan on driving it for many years so want to keep it mild...

 

Any thoughts?

 

Matt

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A tune is needed for the CBE? I figured that's a passive part of the exhaust system.

 

Long term plans for my car (maybe by next summer) for performance mods are the Perrin ELH, Perrin UP/Down an Access Port and a stage 1 tune for 93 octane gas. From what I can tell the stock airbox doesn't become a problem till stage 2 or higher and I am not a big fan of huge intake noise...

 

Not engine related but I will also swap out front/rear sway bars.

What I can't figure out is if I would/will experience that boost creep condition by changing the up/down pipes. I need to keep the car legal and plan on driving it for many years so want to keep it mild...

 

Any thoughts?

 

Matt

 

If you are planning on doing the up/down combo with an exhaust why stage 1? You have everything for stage 2.

The ELH seem like the finishing touches to a stock turbo. If you go bigger the OEM manifolds might work better (port and polish?).

The stock airbox is fine till around 300WHP. I had an SPT when I bought the car and couldn't sell it fast enough. Hated the noise and the way the car ran.

If your tune is good and your install has no leaks you should not have any issues with boost creep. Possibly look into that opensource tune when you are ready. Its cheaper than an AP (I just sold my AP and went OS) and much more flexible/tunable. I am much happier with the tuning from Infamous1 than I was with my car tuned by Cobb.

 

My $0.2

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If you are planning on doing the up/down combo with an exhaust why stage 1? You have everything for stage 2.

The ELH seem like the finishing touches to a stock turbo. If you go bigger the OEM manifolds might work better (port and polish?).

The stock airbox is fine till around 300WHP. I had an SPT when I bought the car and couldn't sell it fast enough. Hated the noise and the way the car ran.

If your tune is good and your install has no leaks you should not have any issues with boost creep. Possibly look into that opensource tune when you are ready. Its cheaper than an AP (I just sold my AP and went OS) and much more flexible/tunable. I am much happier with the tuning from Infamous1 than I was with my car tuned by Cobb.

 

My $0.2

 

All good advice and will be taken into consideration -- much much much more reading yet to do.

 

mayhaps I'll go back over the stage definitions.

 

Thanks!

 

Matt

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I don't really think a tune will do anything for a cbe unless you are going with a tbe.

 

Hes not even stage 1 yet. He just installed the cbe and said it felt slower than stock. That is why I recommended a tune. Might as well get a stage 1 tune with the exhaust and notice a difference. He already spent about $1000 on a cbe and his butt dyno says the car is slower. I would be pissed if I spent a grand and all it did was make more noise. For the cost of the VAG-COM cable he could have a stage 1 tune using mickeyd's map. :)

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I love my SPT CBE, but it's no dice with a 22mm Perrin rear sway . . . clank clank clank

 

I have the 22mm Cobb rsb with the SPT cbe. It hit my pipe before I put in my "saggy butt" shims. Not anymore. Check your ride height, it was my issue. :)

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I have the 22mm Cobb rsb with the SPT cbe. It hit my pipe before I put in my "saggy butt" shims. Not anymore. Check your ride height, it was my issue. :)

Oh it was perfectly fine with the stock suspension height, no contact at all. It was only once I dropped the car that it became a problem. :( Now I need to:

A. buy longer exhaust hangers

B. remove, heat up, and then dent in the exhaust piping so it allows my sway bar to flex

C. Sell SPT axle back and buy new exhaust that fits right

D. hope my temporary fix holds out :rolleyes:

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Oh it was perfectly fine with the stock suspension height, no contact at all. It was only once I dropped the car that it became a problem. :( Now I need to:

A. buy longer exhaust hangers

B. remove, heat up, and then dent in the exhaust piping so it allows my sway bar to flex

C. Sell SPT axle back and buy new exhaust that fits right

D. hope my temporary fix holds out :rolleyes:

 

Sorry to hear that. :(

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Hes not even stage 1 yet. He just installed the cbe and said it felt slower than stock. That is why I recommended a tune. Might as well get a stage 1 tune with the exhaust and notice a difference. He already spent about $1000 on a cbe and his butt dyno says the car is slower. I would be pissed if I spent a grand and all it did was make more noise. For the cost of the VAG-COM cable he could have a stage 1 tune using mickeyd's map. :)

 

 

I'm not too bent out of shape about it. Like I said -- I think it's a case of more sound with the same throttle action just makes it feel slower -- I firmly believe it's all in my head --And maybe just my built in need for always wanting more :)

 

Still researching the cables -- I'm trying to figure out the differences between an AP and one of the cables -- Also seems like two different types of cables for the tactrix -- a cheap one and a more expensive one. From what I can tell I need the more expensive one? I did some digging for that tune too and haven't found yet. Maybe I need to become a contributor or something.

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What year car? If 07+ you need the Tactrix Ver 2 cable (the $170 one). If 05-06 than the Tactrix ver 1 cable (not sure if its still made) or the VAG-COM cable will do.

 

The AP is an all in one device that allows you to download maps to your ECU and log. You have to use the OTS maps or go to a tuner that writes maps for the AP. The cost is about $700.

 

Opensource allows you to use a laptop, cables and free software to tune your car yourself or have a reputable tuner write a map for you. You can also log more effectively. The cost is about $300 for the cables and a tune.

 

Here is the link to Mickeyd's stage 1 map;

http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic3184.html

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The AP is an all in one device that allows you to download maps to your ECU and log. You have to use the OTS maps or go to a tuner that writes maps for the AP. The cost is about $700.

 

That's the retail price, I know at least one place that it can be found NEW for far less. PM me for price + vendor info.

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