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need help reading logs...


ole whore

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Complete noob in tuning but I will chime in here.

 

From what others who have helped me have told me, you need to change what parameters you are logging. You need to log Time, Engine Load (4 byte), Engine Speed, Feedback Knock Correction (4 byte), Fine Learning Knock Correction (4 byte), Ignition Total Timing, Knock Sum, Manifold Relative Pressure, Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle, Throttle Opening Angle, Turbo Dynamics Integral (2 byte), and Vehicle Speed.

 

Also, no need to log it, but make sure that your IAM is at 1.00. You usually need to run the car for a few minutes after a reflash to get it back up to 1.00. It's also helpful to post a learning view up with your datalogs.

 

In order for people to better help you, do a couple of logs using the parameters I listed. Also the best way to do a log is to start the log at about 2500 rpms in 3rd gear and run WOT to about 6300 rpms. Also post your mods to the car.

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I hate to say this, but those are about the worse logs Ihave seen to date.

 

IAM is down to almost nothing. The thing that strikes me right off the bate is the AFR reading, 14.xx:1 on WOT. Something is wrong, big time.

 

DO NOT GET INTO BOOST UNTI IT IS FIXED, AT ALL!!!!!!!

 

Is the vacuum hose going from the intake manifold to the FPR hooked up?

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From what others who have helped me have told me, you need to change what parameters you are logging.

 

That's true. I wrote about that here:

http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic5384.html

 

I have only looked at the first log. In spite of having the wrong set of parameters, it's clear that this car is not healthy. I completely agree with LBGT - stay out of boost until you find out what the problem is and get it fixed.

 

IAM starts at 0.5 (bad) and drops to 0.1875 (worse). Dropping IAM causes the engine to pull timing across the board. It does that only when the ECU believes you're getting a lot of knock.

 

Knock sum starts at 13 (means nothing) and rises to 32 (yikes). That signifies either a lot of knock, or a rattle somewhere that the ECU believes is knock.

 

Ole Whore, do you have any theories on what's going on?

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That's true. I wrote about that here:

http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic5384.html

 

I have only looked at the first log. In spite of having the wrong set of parameters, it's clear that this car is not healthy. I completely agree with LBGT - stay out of boost until you find out what the problem is and get it fixed.

 

IAM starts at 0.5 (bad) and drops to 0.1875 (worse). Dropping IAM causes the engine to pull timing across the board. It does that only when the ECU believes you're getting a lot of knock.

 

Knock sum starts at 13 (means nothing) and rises to 32 (yikes). That signifies either a lot of knock, or a rattle somewhere that the ECU believes is knock.

 

Ole Whore, do you have any theories on what's going on?

 

I am surprised you do not mention the AFR.

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I am surprised you do not mention the AFR.

 

 

I take that back. He is obviously logging with RR, but the AFR is eerily stable and hardly changing at all. Maybe front O2 is shot?

 

Either way, we need to know mods.

 

Post up a LV, even though I am scared to see it. Then we can see learned LTFTs.

 

Now that I look again I see crazy low MAFg/s values. Like maxxing out at 134 g/s? Something major is screwy here.

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I take that back. He is obviously logging with RR, but the AFR is eerily stable and hardly changing at all. Maybe front O2 is shot?

 

Either way, we need to know mods.

 

Post up a LV, even though I am scared to see it. Then we can see learned LTFTs.

 

Now that I look again I see crazy low MAFg/s values. Like maxxing out at 134 g/s? Something major is screwy here.

 

In the first log, MAF never gets high, but throttle is mostly 50% or less.

 

AFR is mostly 11.14 in that log, which is just the lower limit.

 

I'd really like to know the car's history too.

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AFR looked reasonable in the 1st log, and it's the only one I looked at.

 

That one log was enough. :) / :eek:

 

That log almost looks OK AFR wise, but in reality the OEM sensor should be maxxed out low much sooner.

 

Look at AFR in log#2.

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hey guys thanks for all your HONEST inputs, i actually felt like i am being scold....

first, this is not my car and the vehicle is a legacy spec b auto

the car has no mods and the owner took the car by A FRIEND to tune.......

resulting in what you see

two logs were 3rd gear pulls from about 2000 rpm to about redline,

and with regards to the log parameters, i read these are the parameters you need from an existing thread

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hey guys thanks for all your HONEST inputs, i actually felt like i am being scold....

first, this is not my car and the vehicle is a legacy spec b auto

the car has no mods and the owner took the car by A FRIEND to tune.......

resulting in what you see

two logs were 3rd gear pulls from about 2000 rpm to about redline,

and with regards to the log parameters, i read these are the parameters you need from an existing thread

 

Have you showed this thread to the owner of the car? Or the tuner? I am curious as to whether the tuner actually caused all the knock, or whether he did some baseline pulls, saw all the knock, and then told the owner to go get his car fixed.

 

Where's the thread that suggested those parameters? I'd like to get it fixed. Thanks!

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Complete noob in tuning but I will chime in here.

 

From what others who have helped me have told me, you need to change what parameters you are logging. You need to log Time, Engine Load (4 byte), Engine Speed, Feedback Knock Correction (4 byte), Fine Learning Knock Correction (4 byte), Ignition Total Timing, Knock Sum, Manifold Relative Pressure, Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle, Throttle Opening Angle, Turbo Dynamics Integral (2 byte), and Vehicle Speed.

 

Also, no need to log it, but make sure that your IAM is at 1.00. You usually need to run the car for a few minutes after a reflash to get it back up to 1.00. It's also helpful to post a learning view up with your datalogs.

 

In order for people to better help you, do a couple of logs using the parameters I listed. Also the best way to do a log is to start the log at about 2500 rpms in 3rd gear and run WOT to about 6300 rpms. Also post your mods to the car.

 

 

 

you guys are so harse, out of the 12 parameters , i had 10......come on be kind to the NOOB

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you guys are so harse, out of the 12 parameters , i had 10......come on be kind to the NOOB

 

Your log isn't all that bad - it did have the really important things. But, for future reference, you can leave out these parameters:

 

Coolant temp - almost always 180-200, rarely changes much, doesn't provide any information as to whether the tune is good or bad. It's only interesting if you suspect a problem with your cooling system. All you need to do is check it before logging and make sure it's at least 180 or so.

 

Battery voltage - almost always 13.5-14, rarely changes much, etc, etc. Only interesting if if you suspect a problem with the electrical system. If the start motor sounded normal when you started the car, this parameter is not interesting. :)

 

Feedback knock correction - since you have "Knock Sum" the parameter is not needed. It can be interesting if you're fine-tuning timing or investigating specific scenarios where knock happens, but as a general measure of engine health it's much less useful than Knock Sum, which you were logging anyway (Knock Sum tells us a lot).

 

Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle - interesting if you've got boost control problems, otherwise not very interesting. If you want to know if the car is healthy, manifold pressure is the most important boost-related parameter to log.

 

You may be wondering, "what's wrong with logging extra parameters?" The problem is that there is very little bandwidth between your ECU and your laptop. The more parameters you log, the fewer rows of data you end up with.

 

Not scolding, just trying to steer you in the right direction for next time.

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Your log isn't all that bad - it did have the really important things. But, for future reference, you can leave out these parameters:

 

Coolant temp - almost always 180-200, rarely changes much, doesn't provide any information as to whether the tune is good or bad. It's only interesting if you suspect a problem with your cooling system. All you need to do is check it before logging and make sure it's at least 180 or so.

 

Battery voltage - almost always 13.5-14, rarely changes much, etc, etc. Only interesting if if you suspect a problem with the electrical system. If the start motor sounded normal when you started the car, this parameter is not interesting. :)

 

Feedback knock correction - since you have "Knock Sum" the parameter is not needed. It can be interesting if you're fine-tuning timing or investigating specific scenarios where knock happens, but as a general measure of engine health it's much less useful than Knock Sum, which you were logging anyway (Knock Sum tells us a lot).

 

Primary Wastegate Duty Cycle - interesting if you've got boost control problems, otherwise not very interesting. If you want to know if the car is healthy, manifold pressure is the most important boost-related parameter to log.

 

You may be wondering, "what's wrong with logging extra parameters?" The problem is that there is very little bandwidth between your ECU and your laptop. The more parameters you log, the fewer rows of data you end up with.

 

Not scolding, just trying to steer you in the right direction for next time.

 

thank you , thats more like the responce i was looking for...

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