5150LGT Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Hello I am new to the forum, and someone is probably going to complain about starting yet another thread about this... however I have searched high and low on here to find the solution.. so I am going to give it a fresh start... I purchased the car recently with 120k miles on it. the car had a very severe misfire and was in limp mode. I figured that it was due to the crack in the intercooler causing a massive vac/boost leak... So I bought the car and replaced the intercooler.. better but not fixed. Now the problem that will not go away is that when idling in gear it has a miss/idles low.when driving under slight acceleration it has a miss sometimes. WOT seems normal cant tell if the turbo is covering up the issue, or if it goes away under full load occasionally stalls during the initial start up if you put it in gear as soon as you start it. no codes. I went thru the basic diagnostic steps.. *cleaned the maf/ switch with known good one *new plugs and coil boots. no change *pressure/ leakdown test on the injectors good pressure and it holds after you turn the car off * checked the wire harness and ecu plugs. *smoke tested the intake and vac lines. no leaks *compression test( found dead cylinder#2 40 psi) cyl leakdown test all other cyls ok #2 warped exhaust valves (im assuming due to the previous owner driving with a cracked intercooler.) *machined the heads and full valve job new timing belt. check OVC and AVCS remove those pesky oil banjo screens) no change. *cleaned the throttle body (sprayed with cleaner and wiped out the intake/butterfly) *smoke test again after reinstalling engine no vac/ boost leaks *took to the dealer they couldn't figure it out *took it to a subi speedshop for data logging. they recommended a front 02 and said it retarded the timing at WOT almost to the point of triggering a CEL. * new oem 02 sensor. *reset idle according to subi specs *checked cam and crank sensors *created a massive vac leak and the idle initially dropped ( rules out getting to much fuel at idle) *add propane thru a vac line idle initially drops. again eliminated an air supply issue. or vac leak ............ cant figure it out and its driving me NUTS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 How long have you let it run since disconnecting the battery? These things do idle low and sometimes stumble/miss when the ecu is reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaasaiWarrior Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Fuel filter issues? 08 Spec B, insta: @08_spec_b, 10 SH Forester insta: @shfozzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150LGT Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 I did the idle relearn form cold until the engine cooling fans kicked on. And I don't think its a fuel filter issue, because id assume it would get worse at WOT if I wasn't getting enough fuel volume Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Can you post a learning view? Have you been monitoring FKC and FLKC? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Since you say idling in gear, does that mean you have an automatic transmission? If so, does the problem only occur in drive, and not in park or neutral? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150LGT Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Learning view? Fkc flkc? and correct it is a 5eat and only happens In drive or reverse, I was thinking maybe the torque converter is locking at idle but I have crossed that off the list because the problem seems to be that it misfires under slight load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 See this first post here: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic2772.html. It gives some good basic info about learning view, and 'feedback knock correction' (fkc), as well as 'fine learning knock correction' (flkc). Essentially, it is a way to see how your air fuel ratio is in various conditions (e.g. idle, under load, cruising). This way, you can easily get some indications of boost/vaccum leaks. It is also an easy way to see where the ecu has pulled timing due to knocking (i.e. under what rpm and what load ranges). I personally use this tool to monitor everything: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/btssm-bluetooth-adapter-app-229709.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightmonkeygt Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 #ynansb Just kidding sorry couldn't help myself.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Check timing belt isn't off a tooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 WHich gaskets did you use at the intake to TGV's ? the new larger orange ones ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150LGT Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 That's intwresting about the knock sensor learning. My solus scanner doesn't show me those. But u think its safe to eliminate the knock sensor because it isn't transmitting data at idle. And timing is all lined up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 You probably need a new shortblock. See my Shopping List. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Could there be a bad wire somewhere ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150LGT Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Yes actually I do believe they were the orange ones, but I think They aren't leaking because I smoke tested the intake, and also sprayed the entire engine with starting fluid. And it's possibly a loose wire I haven't tried ohming each wire from the harness. I'm hoping to try switching the coils with the ones I have in my outback, I'm wondering if it's a computer programing error. This seems to be a problem that is very common on this generation of legacys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Are you losing any fluids? Have you done a leakdown since fixing the valve issue? Because I've had similar issues twice with no lights. Once was a 2x blown pistons (lots of oil use), the other was a cracked case at piston #3 (loss of coolant). FML. A blown HG can also cause some issues like this. Possible that got messed up when you did the heads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted February 15, 2015 Share Posted February 15, 2015 Twist the pins in the ignition coils slightly with needle nosed pliers. They are flat pins and the female ends inside the harness plugs loosen over time. Twisting then slightly causes them to be tight again. A very small amount of dielectric grease on the female side and snap them back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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