K&N drop in filter, worth it? (2.5i non-turbo owners only please)

I'm looking at getting a K&N drop in panel filter, but is it worth it for $49.99?

Any torque or noise difference?

thanks. I had a K&N filter in my old WRX and noticed a minor gain in torque and could hear the turbo more.

I know standard filters are like $15-20 a pop every 10K miles on this car so spending like $40 once is not bad.

Heard the AVO is the way to go. Look at Fred Beans...

Agreed, it's a dry style filter, so no oil to foul up your MAF sensor. As for gains, nothing you will notice honestly, but it's the last filter you'll have to buy. Just rinse it out and your good to go again.

Not worth it. I have also had problems with one in the past when the filter oil fouled up my MAF sensor. Tests have shown that the airflow is almost no different but the K&N allows more dirt into the motor. A filter should be purchased based on it's ability to filter first and foremost.

LOL your funny... We had a K&N air filter and a Fram and actually ran a test. We had a fan that was sucking a ping pong ball up a tube with the Fram in it barely went half way with the K&N it was trying to shoot out the top of the tube.... They were built to filter dirt better by the way that was their sole purpose. I wouldn't keep them a life time though and as for a gain in power to the op nothing noticeable its a freaking air filter. You just save some money by not having to change it. It also has disadvantages since you have to buy that stupid recharge kit.

I like my Perrin panel fitler. I don't care about any gains in power, IMO you'll never notice it. What is nice is I never have to watch the sales to buy a papper air filter. I use the K&N filter recharge kit from the auto parts store for like $9.00. 128,000 miles and I'm still using the same recharge kit I bought 6 years ago.

I can clean it when ever I want. Normally before and after Winter.

LOL your funny... We had a K&N air filter and a Fram and actually ran a test. We had a fan that was sucking a ping pong ball up a tube with the Fram in it barely went half way with the K&N it was trying to shoot out the top of the tube.... They were built to filter dirt better by the way that was their sole purpose. I wouldn't keep them a life time though and as for a gain in power to the op nothing noticeable its a freaking air filter. You just save some money by not having to change it. It also has disadvantages since you have to buy that stupid recharge kit.

Here is the test I was referencing...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm

A little more scientific than a ping pong ball in a tube.

Yeah, like I said, little to no difference for street motors. K&N = waste of money unless you drive A LOT of miles and have the time and patience to waste on the cleaning and re-oiling process. The K&N I had almost ruined my MAF sensor in my Ford Exploder with the factory applied oil. Mechanic that fixed it said to get rid of the K&N as he has seen lots of them ruin MAF sensors. He said they only belong in race cars that don't have MAF.

It doesn't get much easier than unboxing a $12 paper filter and slapping it in.

Here is the test I was referencing...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm

A little more scientific than a ping pong ball in a tube.

 

Yeah, like I said, little to no difference for street motors. K&N = waste of money unless you drive A LOT of miles and have the time and patience to waste on the cleaning and re-oiling process. The K&N I had almost ruined my MAF sensor in my Ford Exploder with the factory applied oil. Mechanic that fixed it said to get rid of the K&N as he has seen lots of them ruin MAF sensors. He said they only belong in race cars that don't have MAF.

 

It doesn't get much easier than unboxing a $12 paper filter and slapping it in.

The oiled filters don't match well with MAF's, but there are LOTS of cars without MAF's that aren't racecars, lol!

The AVO, & the HKS are great choices for a Dry Filter. But I dont think the aFe Pro Dry S gets enough credit.

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/induction/afe-subaru-legacy-gt-air-filter-pro-dry-s.html

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/a/f/afe_31-10161.jpg

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/p/d/pds_400_6.jpg

And they make a cleaning kit for it ( one of the few dry filters that have one )

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/9/0/90-59999_400.jpg

When you come into the world of motorcycles the K&N filters makes sense since then they have about the same price as the OEM filters.

But for cars it won't really matter and it depends on how much you drive if paper filters drives you nuts. The K&N filter is a cheaper variant of the oil bath air filter that many diesels runs and those are messy to clean.

http://vintagetractorengineer.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/complex-oil-bath-air-filter.jpg

http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2009/01/oil-bath-air-cleaners-for-tractors/

I'm looking at getting a K&N drop in panel filter, but is it worth it for $49.99?

 

Any torque or noise difference?

I have not read the thread but I know that you are going to get tons of differing opinions on this subject.

Personally I think it sounds better and I believe I get better gas millage. As far as power I would not know, you would need to use a dyno and do a before and after for that.

BUT, many, many, many racers use K&N filters on their race cars, motorcycles and boats. In my humble opinion there must be a reason for that.

I have seen one test of how to get more HP without playing with the actual element - give the air box new inlet holes, like adding a CAI....As somebody above said , more air flow = less filtration. The bigger the filter area the better.

One test is to smear the engine side of the filter box with light grease, fit filter and close up; drive a few 1000, wipe the grease out and see how dirty it is. Compare with other filters for same distance and environment.

jp 08 gtb 6mt wagon.

Here is the test I was referencing...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm

A little more scientific than a ping pong ball in a tube.

 

Yeah, like I said, little to no difference for street motors. K&N = waste of money unless you drive A LOT of miles and have the time and patience to waste on the cleaning and re-oiling process. The K&N I had almost ruined my MAF sensor in my Ford Exploder with the factory applied oil. Mechanic that fixed it said to get rid of the K&N as he has seen lots of them ruin MAF sensors. He said they only belong in race cars that don't have MAF.

 

It doesn't get much easier than unboxing a $12 paper filter and slapping it in.

This guy was testing pressure/vacuum not airflow they are two different things.

This guy was testing pressure/vacuum not airflow they are two different things.

And your test isn't holding any water either since nobody here is debating that the K&N flows better in principle, but in practice. In other words, the motor simply doesn't suck up enough volume of air with enough force to make the stock panel filter and box a restriction. Remember that we are talking about a measly 2.5 liter 4-cylinder engine, not a 6 liter V8. It makes little to no difference for the turbo motors on the stock turbo, what makes you think the NA will move more air?