SBT Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 ^ Clogged-cat can create the symptoms that you've described. Only way to know for sure is take it off or replace it with a known good one. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20lgt06 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 just to get this straight because there are lots of threads and i have been stressing over this stupid car:spin: Solid CEL light blinking cruise blinking SI drive Car runs like there is nothing wrong, no stutter, no hesitation, no unusual noise/knocking code pulled P0304 misfire #4 Plugs were changed 5k miles ago only 1 high flow cat 99k miles stage 2 334whp/375wtq fine till now. some say gas cap vac line fuel inj spark plugs coil pack valves ringland if the car is running fine what can i eliminate from the list of issues. Ive never experienced anything like this were a code pulls up and the car runs like new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 just to get this straight because there are lots of threads and i have been stressing over this stupid car:spin: Solid CEL light blinking cruise blinking SI drive Car runs like there is nothing wrong, no stutter, no hesitation, no unusual noise/knocking code pulled P0304 misfire #4 Plugs were changed 5k miles ago only 1 high flow cat 99k miles stage 2 334whp/375wtq fine till now. some say gas cap vac line fuel inj spark plugs coil pack valves ringland if the car is running fine what can i eliminate from the list of issues. Ive never experienced anything like this were a code pulls up and the car runs like new. Those horsepower numbers are impossible at stage 2. Get a compression check. Failing rings and ringlands can be a silent killer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20lgt06 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Those horsepower numbers are impossible at stage 2. Get a compression check. Failing rings and ringlands can be a silent killer. HP numbers on VF52 tell that to Bren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Stage 2 means stock turbo. Stage 3 is non-stock turbo. You are stage 3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gessvt Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 .... some also speculate that it's last on the chain in the fuel rail which causes slight lean conditions thus eventual low compression. but the rails and lines are equidistant... Could a Stage 1 tune correct this scenario? i.e. is the stock tune possibly too conservative, causing a lean condition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 a tune can definitely help lean conditions, the oem tune has some leans pots within it so removing those will help. btw "conservative" usually means on the rich side, and/or timing set to have a buffer zone before it knocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline2083 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 (edited) Hi there, I've had some slight sputtering recently under WOT, figured it was fouled plugs or something, so i changed the plugs, also cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner the same time. After i put everything back up, i've been getting ALOT of continuous sputtering when the car tries to build boost, and i dont know whats happening. I have no CEL or anything. THE CAR IS NOT BOOSTING PERIOD, just holding 0 on the boost controller. Im smelling gas and the car seems to be running extremely rich Defi boost gauge: Jus holding one position slightly above zero and not moving Greddy Profec 2 BC: is displaying negative numbers and as soon as it hits zero to build boost the sputtering begins again Could it be a coilpack, plug, bad maf sensor?? Where do i start?? Btw this is the jdm 2.0 turbo. Can someone plzzzzzz help??? Edited January 30, 2012 by Redline2083 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzymt Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 After i put everything back up, i've been getting ALOT of continuous sputtering when the car tries to build boost, and i dont know whats happening. I have no CEL or anything. THE CAR IS NOT BOOSTING PERIOD, just holding 0 on the boost controller. Im smelling gas and the car seems to be running extremely rich A lot of things can be causing this really. MAF seems like a good place to start - I've experienced similar irregular/bad performance when I just didn't have the air-box securely closed and the air readings on the MAF were all messed up. Considering the big difference pre/post cleaning - it sounds like your MAF might be damaged. [CENTER][URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18504"]Subaru Plug & Play Aux-in Mod[/URL][/CENTER] [CENTER][URL="http://www.jazzyengineering.com"]www.jazzyengineering.com[/URL][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Zero boost? Have you inspected the turbo? That's a big indicator that it is dead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
instantfury Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Clogged cat was the problem. She's all good now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline2083 Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 (edited) Ok i cleaned the MAF, checked the turbo hoses and one was off. After reconnecting it helped the sputtering partially. I think the water injection i have installed it blowing out the spark, im not sure why it wud be doing it all of a sudden now i've changed the plugs. Has me baffled! Whenever the water injection light comes on indicating its spraying, is when the sputtering begins. Anyone knows a good gap for the plugs with water injection installed? BTW i jus wanted to say i dragged an 07 hatchback sti saturday, and destroyed him. My car has everything stock except exhaust and boost controller.....NO TUNE. My car is rated 280hp in japan and his 305hp. Feels good to know i gave him 3-4 lengths in the 1/4mile before a tune . He doesnt feel good that a luxury ride kicked his ass lol....Now back to the topic at hand. The plugs!!! Edited January 31, 2012 by Redline2083 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20lgt06 Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 does anyone know how many miles before the ecu learns again and throws codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 depends on the fault. if you're consistently misfiring it will wait for 3 occurences (or so) and then throw a cel, the cel may disappear the next start up. P0000 is the code for pending misfire. 1 misfire will not trigger a cel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Ok i cleaned the MAF, checked the turbo hoses and one was off. After reconnecting it helped the sputtering partially. I think the water injection i have installed it blowing out the spark, im not sure why it wud be doing it all of a sudden now i've changed the plugs. Has me baffled! Whenever the water injection light comes on indicating its spraying, is when the sputtering begins. Anyone knows a good gap for the plugs with water injection installed? BTW i jus wanted to say i dragged an 07 hatchback sti saturday, and destroyed him. My car has everything stock except exhaust and boost controller.....NO TUNE. My car is rated 280hp in japan and his 305hp. Feels good to know i gave him 3-4 lengths in the 1/4mile before a tune . He doesnt feel good that a luxury ride kicked his ass lol....Now back to the topic at hand. The plugs!!! that's cool. you were drag racing without being tuned with meth and mods...you sound like a smart one. were you in japan? because in the U.S. the sti hatch came out in 08. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redline2083 Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 that's cool. you were drag racing without being tuned with meth and mods...you sound like a smart one. were you in japan? because in the U.S. the sti hatch came out in 08. Yea quite smart *head down*. I am not tuned because im unable to access my ecu for some reason, not sure why and im only running water injection for now, no meth, So the car is extremely rich, running in 9's because the aem wideband is hold 10.0 flat on WOT. I'm in the caribbean so we get everything from japan, so the hatch is 07. i believe the japs got the legacy gt in 03 and the US in 05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 I have now: replaced injector cleaned MAF/IAT Replaced Air Filter Swapped Coil Packs Checked Blue Tee Vacuum Lines Still getting the #4 misfire code. Is there anything else I should check before I have it leakdown tested? Shoudl I investigate more vacuum lines? Would a vacuum line cause a misfire in only one cylinder? If so, any ideas on where to look? Much Thanks I have now had a leakdown and compression test and all was fine. All cylinders were 130-140 psi. P0304 CEL Light has come back on. When the shop did the compression test, they said that the new injector that had been installed was leaking from the top, so they put a different one in. The car now runs and idles much better (though not perfect), but the code is still being thrown!!! I have no idea where to go from here? If someone can suggest I would appreciate! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 4, 2012 Share Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) You need to check the rubber gasket seal where the plastic Intake manifold bolts on. I was just talking to a couple of Subaru techs this week, one with 15-20 years experience and one with 8-12 years. They both told me with my new motor to watch for cylinder 4 misfires, and if you get any check the rubber seal on the black plastic intake. I didn't ask how to check it but if there were a leak there I would assume you could spray carburetor cleaner or something similar around that area and if there is a leak it will cause the motor to rev a bit. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I think that is how you would check. Other than that, I would think a leak down/ compression test would be in order. I had intermittent misfires after about 112k and I did all the normal things mentioned. Funny thing was when I purchased a spare injector my misfire went away. It was running perfect after that for a couple months or more and then all of a sudden I had misfires really bad below about 2k RPMs. Did leak down and cylinder was holding 30 PSI. Tore it down and valve seat/ valve was bad. Seems that the turbo'd Subarus are prone to exhaust valve seats going bad, especially at high mileage over around 100K My lower end was perfect, still had hone scratches and number four looked perfect as well. A friend of mine had a head gasket leak at around 100K and he decided to just fix that. When the heads were pulled off and checked the exhaust valves were already out of spec. He rebuilt the heads and put them back on the same short block (money constraints and no oil usage) and his motor is running fine with little to no consumption. Same with mine, but I already had a built short block so I swapped it out. Hope this helps Edited February 4, 2012 by Scooby2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 You need to check the rubber gasket seal where the plastic Intake manifold bolts on. I was just talking to a couple of Subaru techs this week, one with 15-20 years experience and one with 8-12 years. They both told me with my new motor to watch it. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I think that is how you would check. Other than that, I would think a leak down/ compression test would be in order. I had intermittent misfires after about 112k and I did all the normal things mentioned. Funny thing was when I purchased a spare injector my misfire went away. It was running perfect after that for a couple months or more and then all of a sudden I had misfires really bad below about 2k RPMs. Did leak down and cylinder was holding 30 PSI. Tore it down and valve seat/ valve was bad. Seems that the turbo'd Subarus are prone to exhaust valve seats going bad, especially at high mileage over around 100K My lower end was perfect, still had hone scratches and number four looked perfect as well. A friend of mine had a head gasket leak at around 100K and he decided to just fix that. When the heads were pulled off and checked the exhaust valves were already out of spec. He rebuilt the heads and put them back on the same short block (money constraints and no oil usage) and his motor is running fine with little to no consumption. Same with mine, but I already had a built short block so I swapped it out. Hope this helps Which black intake were they referring to? The air intake before the air filter? I had the compression/leak down which is why I am now at a loss for what to check. Everything so far seems to check out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Which black intake were they referring to? The air intake before the air filter? I had the compression/leak down which is why I am now at a loss for what to check. Everything so far seems to check out. The intake manifold. (the biggest black thing in the engine bay). They sit on red o-rings between the tgv's and can leak sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 (edited) Correct BMX the intake manifold to TGV or tumblers O rings/gaskets. The black plastic runners that are red on an STi Edited February 6, 2012 by Scooby2.5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Thanks Guys, Just to confirm, this is the O-ring between the intake manifold and the intake manifold(lower), that is labelled number 23 on FU(H4DOTC)-3 of the vacation pics? Is the intake manifold(lower) the same as TGV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/subaru-intake-manifold-to-tumbler-valve-gaskets-1.html Note the part # Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Can the upper intake manifold be removed and the o-rings replaced without removing the entire intake manifold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 You dont remove the manifold you hold it up while swapping the gaskets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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