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Official 5th Generation Suspension Thread


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^^^ keep in mind that the 3.6R has a 45/55 power split F/R. GTEASER mentioned to me that the 2.5GT has a 50/50 F/R. And, I know that the 2.5i has a 50/50 split. Handling is a little different.

 

At least they come with bracing.

 

They should make the GT like the 3.6R. I currently, am running an 02 WRX, with a 6-speed swap, with out a DCCD controller. This causes it to default to 35/65 F/R power split. I consider that my primary list of "handling mods" the car has springs, and mild RSB upgrade, but handles better than any subaru I have ever driven.

 

Also makes for extra fun in the snow!

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^^^ rear biased AWD makes most sense to me. Your split seems ideal for street use. Not bashing the 50/50. I'm so used to a RWD only handling.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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Ping my main man Rick of Underdog Motorsports. http://legacygt.com/forums/member.php?u=10142

 

He's a zen-level suspension guru and he's got awesome pricing on all these.

 

For the endlinks, I'd vote for the Whiteline adjustables:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC172

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC182

 

See what Rick tells you.

 

For your 2012, I'd recommend: 2013+ stock FSB (26mm, nice and bulky for the heavy H6) and a Whiteline 22mm RSB (set to medium or highest setting).

 

Night and day difference from stock and these two complement each other nicely (even better than a 2010-2012 stock 23mm FSB + any beefier-than-stock 19+ mm RSB).

 

Stock Front: 23mm

Stock Rear: 16mm

 

2013+ Front: 26mm

Outback/'STI' Rear: 19mm

 

Alright. Just picked up the 22mm whiteline rear and the 2013 stock 26mm front. Also ordered some poly bushings for the front and here we go. :)

 

Also so when I ordered the front bushings through the guys at rally sport direct they said I'm supposed to just order the 26 mm for the 26 mm bar but the oem ones are actually 25mms. Anyone know about this? The guy said that the whiteline just runs truer to size that you don't have to size down...?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

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The Rears are identical based on my (and others) install of the Koni Yellows for and 08+ WRX. I believe that the fronts struts are going to be different than ours because on the 08+ WRX the spring perch sits approximately 1/2" lower on the strut body. Don't know about STi fronts, but the rear should work. I heard that something was different about those front strut bodies because of the 5x114 hub that the STi uses. BRZ is going to have completely different shock valving, so I would stick with WRX stuff.

 

Why you ask? What are you thinking?

Edited by GTEASER
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  • 2 weeks later...

...came back from the alignment shop. i got neg. camber all around..-1.6 to -1.8...How can I get these numbers to hit -1.0 or -0.50 instead. 19" rubber ain't cheap!

 

Any solutions...thoughts,

 

CK

 

I know...raising the car up 2"-3" is not what I want to hear/read!

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I'm -7/8front left...- 1 3/16ths front right...cross camber 5/16ths and toe .01°

-1 1/16 left rear and - 1 5/32nds right rear....cross camber 3/32 and toe .02°

Apparently those numbers are in the green based off the computer print out

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hey all, new to all this Subaru world...Just got a 2010 legacy that's under the gold package warranty till 2017..Just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction, of what to buy to lower my car an inch or two, and if itd still be under warranty etc. Thanks!

 

http://i42.tinypic.com/6p3pq9.jpg

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hey all, new to all this Subaru world...Just got a 2010 legacy that's under the gold package warranty till 2017..Just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction, of what to buy to lower my car an inch or two, and if itd still be under warranty etc. Thanks!

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-5th-generation-suspension-thread-163275.html

 

yes, unless you develop a problem related to the drop.

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hey all, new to all this Subaru world...Just got a 2010 legacy that's under the gold package warranty till 2017..Just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction, of what to buy to lower my car an inch or two, and if itd still be under warranty etc. Thanks!

 

 

Did you ask your service advisor?

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone else ever had trouble with their steering after lowering? I threw on hnr springs. For some reason the bearing on top of the shock/spring goes out. (Strut mount?) I don't know the name for it. It's the one with the three screws under the hood. Anyways. This is the second time this has happened. It happened like a week after I lowers it where it sits and pops as I turn left. It was the drivers side. And so the place that installed the springs replaced it and it went away. Now three months later it's started again.

 

Also. I've replace the front and rear sway bars. Whiteline 22 in the back. Stiffest setting. And 2013 oem bar up front with oem bushings. It seems to ride really hard up front. Like ever bump I go over on the road, it sounds like the front end is gonna break of. And feels like it too. It shudders really. Anyone ever had these problems?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I am on H&R also for the last 7 months, maybe 10k miles or so and no problems. Took it all apart once to install the springs and then took it apart again about 5k miles ago to install the Koni Yellow shocks. No problems at all.

 

Between the upper front spring perch and the tophat, there is a bearing and a cupped washer. Those need to be installed correctly with the curved part of the washer facing up toward the tophat and the bearing on top of it.

 

Order of install, perch on spring, cupped washer (curved side up), bearing, tophat, bolt it all together.

 

It sounds like your installer may have installed the washer upside down or the bearing on the perch with the washer on top of it.

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