speaker choices?

been doing some looking around to replace my stock speakers in my 08 LGT and here is what I came up with. (trying to not spend to much either so i'm doing my best to budget maybe 250 max for the front and rear)

 

Infinity 6022i

Infinity 629I

Polk DB651

 

Any thoughts or suggestions?

you won't notice much different just changing speakers unless your adding an amp into the equation

I have Sony XS-GTX1620S (260W) and XS-GTX1640 (300W) in my car with a Sony CDX-GT610UI head unit. The cd player makes a big difference for me. Trying looking on ebay or this site http://www.onlinecarstereo.com.

question ( not meaningto hijack ) but without replacing the HU, what would happens with the whole SRS wow effect by adding new speakers?

 

I've seen people just replace the speakers and they did fine withthe stock hu, but they noiced a big difference when they added an amp

Ive had the Polk DB651s in my last car. They are ok for the money but seemed to wear quickly. I had them for about a year when they started to go. They were on an Alpine 40x4 amp and I never pushed them that hard. I wont buy again.

The popular cheap but not too bad speakers are Alpine. I'm not a big fan of them, but I am not a fan of cheap speakers in general.

I am thinking of upgrading my speakers in a few months as well. I am going for Boston Acoustics.

 

One thing about speakers you have to remember is, in order to get maximum performance out of a speaker, you have to make sure you have:

1) a head unit that can provide a good clean signal

2) an amp (sometimes you may get a head unit that has a built in amp that does the job, but usually head units won't provide enough power by themselves). A good amp is key; I had an amp that was screwed up somewhere, and it ended up blowing 2 subwoofers before I realized it was the amp.

3) make sure you break in your speakers. Turn the volume down to a barely audible level for the first 40-120 hours of play (depending on the speaker... I know, it sounds like a lot but unless you want your performance speakers to die quickly...)

 

The speaker break in period seems to be a topic of discussion, so it's a little controversial, but in my experience, it never hurts.

I am thinking of upgrading my speakers in a few months as well. I am going for Boston Acoustics.

 

One thing about speakers you have to remember is, in order to get maximum performance out of a speaker, you have to make sure you have:

1) a head unit that can provide a good clean signal

2) an amp (sometimes you may get a head unit that has a built in amp that does the job, but usually head units won't provide enough power by themselves). A good amp is key; I had an amp that was screwed up somewhere, and it ended up blowing 2 subwoofers before I realized it was the amp.

3) make sure you break in your speakers. Turn the volume down to a barely audible level for the first 40-120 hours of play (depending on the speaker... I know, it sounds like a lot but unless you want your performance speakers to die quickly...)

 

The speaker break in period seems to be a topic of discussion, so it's a little controversial, but in my experience, it never hurts.

 

 

Don't forget the install.. this being the key factor of the outcome of sound. Always use deadener on the doors and make sure the driver is sealed properly.. use a deflex pad if needed as well.

I was looking at some of the other threads about installing speakers and talking the doors off. It should be a clean swap in terms of taking out the stock speaker and replacing it right?

 

But to get things just straight before I go ahead and screw up my setup I should get some dampening material to put in when I install the speakers to improve sound quality correct? And in terms of the OEM HU, I should look into picking up an amp as well to install if I'm going to be using the stock HU right?

I was looking at some of the other threads about installing speakers and talking the doors off. It should be a clean swap in terms of taking out the stock speaker and replacing it right?

 

But to get things just straight before I go ahead and screw up my setup I should get some dampening material to put in when I install the speakers to improve sound quality correct? And in terms of the OEM HU, I should look into picking up an amp as well to install if I'm going to be using the stock HU right?

 

I installed some polks about 3/4 weeks back. I actually used the stock speaker as a spacer (as shown in a couple threads) and then soldered the new speakers terminals to the connector on the stock speaker. This enabled me to have a spacer as well as use the stock wiring.

Unless you plan on doing sound competitions save yourself a lot of time and don't bother with sound deadening material. Yes, it makes the door stiffer and improves sound, but in my opinion its a PITA and not really worth it unless you plan on putting huge subs in the doors.

 

I'm also not a fan of Infinity component speakers (their DVC subs on the other hand are awesome), but I do love Boston Acoustics...that is just a matter of personal preference. Whatever your speaker choice may be you must put an amp to them. The sound coming out of a speaker is only as good as the signal it receives. The amp will help you finetune the overall sound and balance in the car.

Unless you plan on doing sound competitions save yourself a lot of time and don't bother with sound deadening material. Yes, it makes the door stiffer and improves sound, but in my opinion its a PITA and not really worth it unless you plan on putting huge subs in the doors.

 

I'm also not a fan of Infinity component speakers (their DVC subs on the other hand are awesome), but I do love Boston Acoustics...that is just a matter of personal preference. Whatever your speaker choice may be you must put an amp to them. The sound coming out of a speaker is only as good as the signal it receives. The amp will help you finetune the overall sound and balance in the car.

 

Thank you fro the information sir. So any amp suggestions? Noticed that alot of people just mount them to the back of the rear seats... anyone got a better idea for an amp?

is running new wire (better gauge) from the HU/amp necessary?

don't bother with sound deadening material.

 

Completely disagree. You have the doors apart, what's an extra $50 and 20 minutes per door to make an impact in road noise and rattles?

So deadening material = good stuff then. I'd like to eliminate rattle... Also had a concern w/ putting subs in... I really really don't want that horrible trunk rattle that you hear alot of the time someone puts huge ass subs into his trunk, curious how I can cut that out.

 

I really just want a nice clean sound system don't need anything to crazy, but something that sounds good.

Completely disagree. You have the doors apart, what's an extra $50 and 20 minutes per door to make an impact in road noise and rattles?

 

I haven't had experience personally putting in sound deadening equipment, but here's my take:

 

I have read that sound deadening equipment DOES NOT REDUCE road noise. This means it does not reduce the wind whipping by your car (which is by far the loudest disturbance I hear when I am driving), it does not reduce the sound of your tires against whatever you are driving on.

 

It only reduces any rattling of your doors, or any hitting of your speakers against your doors. If you have no door rattle and your speaker will not touch your door or is firmly in place, I'm not sure sound deadening is worth it. Just my .02

 

Unless you plan on doing sound competitions save yourself a lot of time and don't bother with sound deadening material. Yes, it makes the door stiffer and improves sound, but in my opinion its a PITA and not really worth it unless you plan on putting huge subs in the doors.

 

I'm also not a fan of Infinity component speakers (their DVC subs on the other hand are awesome), but I do love Boston Acoustics...that is just a matter of personal preference. Whatever your speaker choice may be you must put an amp to them. The sound coming out of a speaker is only as good as the signal it receives. The amp will help you finetune the overall sound and balance in the car.

 

I will have to agree on both points.

I did not like my Infiniti's that much either. Granted the pair I bought were cheap, and they performed better than the pair of Polk I bought, but Boston Acoustics speakers are just on an entirely separate level. It's like comparing a Subaru 2.5i to a Spec B.

 

As for brands of amps. I have heard that Rockford Fosgates put out a good amount of power for the price. I have a Sony Xplode sitting in my basement right now (it was on sale) but I have no idea how it will perform.

I am in the same situation, I am looking to do speakers, 4 channel, and a small sub in my SpecB and I don't want to spend a fortune on it but I want it to sound good. My problems are When looking for an amp and speakers what is a good RMS rating? Obviously more power is better but at what point do you really stop noticing a difference in the sound quality? Also when does it pay to change from doing line converters to rca and go with something like a cleansweep or rockford 3sixty. Sorry didn't mean to hijack just thought it might help you decide on amp and speakers.

when it comes to RMS thats the number your really interested in. all other wattage ratings like from sony and other (cheap, had to say it i hate their stuff) brands love to advertise peak wattage in terms of total power. but the RMS wattage is the actual power running to the speaker at all times. Higher RMS = better power. Also amps come in different ratings like D for example. I agree with Boston speakers being good quality and would use them in my car. when going through all this trouble you should also upgrade the speaker wires. they DO make a difference, ie pure copper with multiple twisted strands and a dead core etc etc.

I am in the same situation, I am looking to do speakers, 4 channel, and a small sub in my SpecB and I don't want to spend a fortune on it but I want it to sound good. My problems are When looking for an amp and speakers what is a good RMS rating? Obviously more power is better but at what point do you really stop noticing a difference in the sound quality? Also when does it pay to change from doing line converters to rca and go with something like a cleansweep or rockford 3sixty. Sorry didn't mean to hijack just thought it might help you decide on amp and speakers.

 

.. remember you get what you pay for.. you want cheap you get cheap.. my suggestion is buy used .. http://www.caraudio.com .. go to the classifieds and buy from someone with good refs

oh and for those who think sound deadener only stops rattles.. you have not installed it correctly

Sound deadening material (used to eliminate rattle) is only useful if you know that the source of the rattle is coming from the metal on the door. Again I am only speaking about rattle! If the rattle is coming from the levers, rods, door assembles, plastic, etc...you can Dynomat the $h!t out of that door and it will still rattle! <--- It's my own opinion but unless you are going for a high performance audio system, hold off on the stuff.

 

As far as wiring, I think its really going to depend on the type of speaker that you will put into your car. How many ohms are the speakers putting on the amp? If they are 4ohms, I would leave the stock wiring, if they are 2ohms, I would upgrade. For the wiring that goes from the battery back to the distribution block I would use the smallest guage (thickest, a 2 or a 4 should suffice) you can find, then a bigger gauge (thinner, about an 8) for the distribution block to the amp. I like Kicker their wire is AMAZING because it is very flexible. Go for the Blue stuff.

 

For Amps...I like Kenwood. They have a very sturdy design and have a fan to help cool down the internals. Great for those hot summer months. I have used Sony and Infinity before and they both died on me, so I would not recommend them to anyone. I would see if you can mount them to the back of your seats in the trunk. This area is good because there is a lot of space to allow for air to circulate. I wouldn't recommend putting them under a seat because there is 0 room for them to breathe.

Sound deadening material (used to eliminate rattle) is only useful if you know that the source of the rattle is coming from the metal on the door. Again I am only speaking about rattle! If the rattle is coming from the levers, rods, door assembles, plastic, etc...you can Dynomat the !t out of that door and it will still rattle! <--- It's my own opinion but unless you are going for a high performance audio system, hold off on the stuff.

 

As far as wiring, I think its really going to depend on the type of speaker that you will put into your car. How many ohms are the speakers putting on the amp? If they are 4ohms, I would leave the stock wiring, if they are 2ohms, I would upgrade. For the wiring that goes from the battery back to the distribution block I would use the smallest guage (thickest, a 2 or a 4 should suffice) you can find, then a bigger gauge (thinner, about an 8) for the distribution block to the amp. I like Kicker their wire is AMAZING because it is very flexible. Go for the Blue stuff.

 

For Amps...I like Kenwood. They have a very sturdy design and have a fan to help cool down the internals. Great for those hot summer months. I have used Sony and Infinity before and they both died on me, so I would not recommend them to anyone. I would see if you can mount them to the back of your seats in the trunk. This area is good because there is a lot of space to allow for air to circulate. I wouldn't recommend putting them under a seat because there is 0 room for them to breathe.

 

For wiring size.. it depends on power not the ohm load. I always run 12awg for my components..

I just bought some Infinity Kappa 60.9cs's for the front and a rockford fosgate Prime r150-2 amp, it should be here tomorrow, I also bought a rockford fosgate Prime r500-1 amp for a 10" kappa perfect VQ sub. I am in the process of making a fiberglass box, got the first couple layers done and popped it out of the trunk so its going well. My buddy had quite a bit of deadener left over from his project which he gave to me. I am probably not going to install it myself, as there is a local installer that specializes in subies and they gauranty their work. They also don't care if you bought the stuff from somewhere else.

Just some input and a question....

 

If you wanted to ad the amp to your existing HU, then you basically have to get a line out converter (if using the stock radio) Run wires to the amp, and wires back to the factory speakers.. seems like a lot of work an double the wiring. Is this worth it, or is there a better way to do this?

 

I'm planning on adding a sub to the car since I have amps and subs lying around from my last car. So as far as I understand it is the same idea if I were to add another amp for the speakers versus just one for the sub itself.

I don't see why you would go through the trouble of doing such a thing if you were not going to install new speakers.