brakes and rotors

Hey everyone. I took my legacy into the shop today to have her looked at and they told me the front rotors and pads needed to be replaced. They quoted me 390 plus tax. I imagine labor might be involved too. Does this quote seem high or about right? This is my first Subaru and I have usually done most work by myself on previous vehicles but as I get older it seems easier to let the professionals handle it, but 390 for front pads and rotors?

Sounds sorta close to what I'd guess for OEM parts at list price plus labor- looks like $255 MSRP in parts, tack on 2 hours of labor, maybe some fluids, shop supplies, etc. I should also mention that I've never actually paid anyone to do my brakes, which means I have absolutely no idea what it actually costs, so take this with a grain of salt.

 

Alternatively, you could go the DIY route and replace your front and rear pads and rotors with better than stock parts and still come out ahead. Depending on what kind of condition your rotors are in, there's always the option of getting them resurfaced.

 

Lots of options here, including some package deals: http://knsbrakes.com/c/car-items/2869_2013+Subaru+Legacy+2.5i

Jeez man, you can get good non-OEM front pads and rotors for under $100 at Rockauto.com.

If you were near me I'd install em for you for a six pack.

 

Also, have you had any issues with the rotors? Why do they need replacing?

Definitely agree with the others here. Simple brake work such as this is not difficult to DIY if you have done it at least once before.

 

You are paying the shop mostly for labor, plus markup on their parts. Their estimate is probably average for your area. Up to you, I guess, if it is worth it.

 

Use better parts. Even though these parts are not expensive, they will work well and last you awhile. Recommend these parts:

 

- Centric Premium rotors, $26 x 2 = $52

- StopTech Sport pads, $32 x 1 = $32

- Misc supplies, brake cleaner, brake grease = $8

===============================

- TOTAL = $92

 

For tools, you just need a metric socket set, lug wrench, large c-clamp, wire brush, shop towels, jack and jack stands. A breaker bar might be handy.

DIY also adds a boost in testosterone....

RockAuto while great will kill you with shipping charges especially if in come from separate warehouses. I find what I need then search Amazon for a better deal.

KNS Brakes. Free shipping on most stuff and reasonable prices. $200 and 3 hours of your time to just do it yourself. Plus, you get to feel manly for doing your own maintenance, and you have money left over to take your wife out for a nice dinner.

Pick up a pair of M8-1.25 X 25 Hex cap bolts for removing the rotors quickly and easily.

I agree with the DYI attitude but I don't have a garage and the driveway is covered with snow. I might shop around at other shops to see what they charge. According to the tech the pads are heating up and getting thin and the rotors are not dispersing the heat as well as they should be. The sounds of it I would say the pads wore thin and are heating the rotors which is causing it to start to over heat the rotors which would cause the rotor to warp. Ive put on 20k miles since I bought the car but I wouldn't think I need new brakes this quickly

Rotors generally don't warp, there is probably some overheated brake material left on the rotor causing the vibration. Given your location changing the rotors might be a good idea at this point anyway. I would go with the parts recommended above unless a shop could convince me to use their parts...like for a warranty or something of that nature and if they use brand name parts.

There is a "Subaru" shop in Kenilworth, NJ that will absolutely threat you like family http://azpinstalls.com/web/index.php/services/maintenance/brakes this is their price list.

 

They are over an hour away from me but when we "have to" have something done we take it to them.

The only warranty that I was told of from the dealership is a one-year parts warranty but I'm sure that is any shop. Are the subaru parts better than over the counter parts?

The only warranty that I was told of from the dealership is a one-year parts warranty but I'm sure that is any shop. Are the subaru parts better than over the counter parts?

For many parts, the OEM Subaru parts are better or longer-lasting. Not necessary for brakes -- the good brand "premium" over the counter parts are usually very good.

 

Going to a chain place like Midas and there is no telling what they will put on there. Avoid. Better to go to an independent shop that knows you and will use parts that you want.

There is a "Subaru" shop in Kenilworth, NJ that will absolutely threat you like family

 

I don't want to go to any shop that will threat me like family, at least not like my family!

 

Sorry for being off topic!

I don't want to go to any shop that will threat me like family, at least not like my family!

 

I don't know, he is from New Jersey, maybe that shop has an offer you cannot refuse.

Just picked up this kit from KNS, as my rear brakes have been squealing constantly and my front pads don't have a lot of meat left on them. The entire kit costs about the same amount the deal quoted me for just the rears!

 

http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-series/2925_2012+Subaru+Legacy+2.5i+Premium/198_Centric+Premium+Brake+Rotors+and+Hawk+Performance+Ceramic+Brake+Pads

 

Plan to install them after my car goes in for the 45K service in a couple of weeks. I would do it sooner but my buddy with all of the tools and knowhow has been crazy busy with snow plowing.

I feel like this might be another "What oil should I use?" question but, here it goes...

 

I'm deciding between the slotted DBA T2 rotors and the KNS 4K standard rotors. For daily driving and sometimes spirited driving, do slotted offer much more benefit vs the cost of higher pad wear? From what I gather the slots are just to help with braking multiple times like with track use. I felt the (what my brakes used to be) was pretty adequate for stopping and the cars power. Was thinking maybe just a different pad, some SS lines and the cylinder brace would give me what I'm looking for.

 

Second, pads. I'm okay with some dust. Looking for something that will work well when it's below freezing out. EBC Redstuff? HP Ceramics? Not really sure. Too many choices.

I feel like this might be another "What oil should I use?" question but, here it goes...

 

I'm deciding between the slotted DBA T2 rotors and the KNS 4K standard rotors. For daily driving and sometimes spirited driving, do slotted offer much more benefit vs the cost of higher pad wear? From what I gather the slots are just to help with braking multiple times like with track use. I felt the (what my brakes used to be) was pretty adequate for stopping and the cars power. Was thinking maybe just a different pad, some SS lines and the cylinder brace would give me what I'm looking for.

 

Second, pads. I'm okay with some dust. Looking for something that will work well when it's below freezing out. EBC Redstuff? HP Ceramics? Not really sure. Too many choices.

I'm pretty sure your brakes are better gripping than your tires below freezing, lol.

 

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Funny guy d:

 

I thought I read somewhere that some performance pads don't work as well when they're cold and are fine once warmed up. Maybe I'm just making stuff up in my head, lol.

 

I think I'll try the 4K rotors and some Stoptech Performance pads (seem to have a good cost to value aside from being a little dusty)

 

Many things car related seem to be more, what you like and what works for you, and not what works best as a general consensus.

I went with Akebono ProAct and Centric rotors. Here are the links:

 

Rear:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IY5H74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KO4NL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Front:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CGP13I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IY4A0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

These guys are recommended by Tirerack. I put them on and they stop better compared to OEM/O'reilly/Autozone stuff. Plus the quality is great. You'll need new shims or reuse old ones.

I have used Napa brake parts and they have done quite well ceramic pads and good rotors

I went with Akebono ProAct and Centric rotors. Here are the links:

 

Rear:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IY5H74/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KO4NL2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Front:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CGP13I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IY4A0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

These guys are recommended by Tirerack. I put them on and they stop better compared to OEM/O'reilly/Autozone stuff. Plus the quality is great. You'll need new shims or reuse old ones.

 

Nice. Thanks. I'll have to find ones that fit the 3.6R since they're slightly larger rotors.

 

Edit: Looks like ACT1124 for the rears and ACT1078 for the front, according to Akebono's website. They look good actually. I think I'll try them out. OEM has been alright up until the last 6mm or so left on the pad. Although, hey didn't stand well against consecutive braking in the mountains. I think it's time for a brake fluid flush and re-greasing of the slide pins.

I think as long as you stay away from Race pads you should be good, I like to check ratings on tirerack and amazon too. Any street pad should do well in most temperatures, and a hi performance street will stand up to repeated stops, but if you plan on doing the mountain drives a lot a brake upgrade may be the best bet, nothing beats surface area for braking.