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Should I pull the trigger?


kraziedomo

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So I have never owned a Subaru before but have heard great things about them. Just moved to Colorado where it snows and my current car blows in the snow. About to pull the trigger in this deal and looking for others opinions....

 

Current car-

2005 Acura Rsx Type-S

74,000 miles

 

Trading for-

2006 Subaru Legacy GT

53,000 miles

Orginal owner

Clean title

 

Broker is offering $10,000 as a trade in and selling the LGT for $17,000

 

Should I do it or wait?

 

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Depends on if the previous maintenance has been tip top. The 60k service interval is coming up on the car. New Belts, plugs, and fluids will be needed. The car is a turbo so oil changes every 3-3750 miles are crucial along with topping the oil off as necessary. A compression check and pulling the down pipe and checking the turbo for shaft play would not be a bad idea. Other then that its little things like wheel bearings and rattles that pop up on these cars.
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Depends on if the previous maintenance has been tip top. The 60k service interval is coming up on the car. New Belts, plugs, and fluids will be needed. The car is a turbo so oil changes every 3-3750 miles are crucial along with topping the oil off as necessary. A compression check and pulling the down pipe and checking the turbo for shaft play would not be a bad idea. Other then that its little things like wheel bearings and rattles that pop up on these cars.

belt is at 105k no?

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It's really a play on numbers. A 2005 RSX Type-S is not worth $10k on trade in. A 2006 LGT is not worth $17k. However, the dealer pumped up your trade value and just pumped up his asking price to give you the appearance that you're getting $10k for your trade. In reality, once the deal is done and the real figures are put in the computer, the dealer may type in $7,000 for your trade-in, and $14,000 for his car's sale price. In the end it doesn't matter, because the cash difference is the same $7,000.

 

Want to avoid the confusion and make this simpler for you? Go in there, tell the dealer you want to be at a $5k cash difference out the door (that includes taxes, title, and license). He'll probably think 'NO WAY', but you have your starting baseline just like they gave you theirs, and you negotiate. Just negotiate in terms of cash difference out the door, because that is a final number for you. No confusion. No way to spin the numbers. Hey, you can fight from that $5k figure and try to make it $6k or $7k cash difference out the door. You let the dealer go with this whole your car is worth 'x', my car 'y', then add this fee, that fee, tax, title, license, etc, and you let them have control of the deal. You want to be in control, so dumb it down and put the pants on them.

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So I went ahead and bought it. Not gonna lie, my smile gets pretty big when that turbo kicks. Got it for basically 6k after trade in. Paid cash. Got him to even throw in the 3 year extended warranty since it qualified.

 

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