Add me to the rebuild list

Looks like I'm doing a rebuild too!! My road to it was a little different. My turbo was leaking oil and starting to fail, so the plan was to just replace the turbo. Then about 5 days later I found out the cooling system issue I've been having has no more alternatives, it's the head gaskets. And I refuse to put over 5k into a 10 year old motor.

Sadly I don't have the time/patience/knowledge/space/help to do this myself at the moment, and my back up car may need a back up car, so I can't risk having my car out for very long. So shop it is

Since I'm about to spend over $6k on this, I'd like to make sure it's done correctly and built to last. So any recommendations on things to make sure NOT to do or things to make sure TO DO? I've read over (but need to refresh) Max C's and Mr.Tris build threads. Any other suggestions to look over? There is so much damn knowledge on here, I have a hard time figuring where to start.

I'm thinking an EJ257 SB & gasket kit from Heuberger that Mr.Tris had linked for $2081 shipped. Pretty hard to beat that $. If anyone knows someone who can, I'm all ears. Are aftermarket HG's worth it? I know it's rare for these cars to have them go, but I'm walking proof. I was also thinking a BNR18G. I sent them an e-mail but haven't heard back. If I go the 18G route instead of 16G, I believe I'll have to upgrade my fuel & oil systems, a new tune, and maybe injectors? I think I also read it may be a good idea to do new pistons while all this is going on. Thoughts?

All this on top of a wedding in October we're paying for. Here's to empty wallets, full credit limits, and plenty of drinks for all!!! or at least me.

OEM HG's will be fine with ARP head studs.

18g will need fuel pump and injectors to get a good safe tune.

Your oil pump should be fine.

Don't forget the,

remove both banjo filters

crush washers for the banjo's

1/2 moons for the valve covers.

clean the engine grounds

new oil return hose from turbo

heater hoses

radiator hoses, I did replace both pressure caps last Fall

IMO stock pistons will be fine as long as the tune is safe, your not looking for max HP.

I wouldn't go oem head gaskets but that's me. Fel pro or sixstar.

Stock pistons will be fine on a good tune on a daily driver. Read the sticky on forged vs oem pistons. It's not written on subarus but it's a very good read and answers alot of question on why to go with oem over forged.

Arp head studs are a big plus and I would spend the little extra money and get them over oem for various reasons. But make sure the garage follows the torque specs for arp not oem. Oem has a crazy process to pre stretch the head bolt before you torque it. Arp are not a torque to yeild so they must skip that part.

OEM HG's will be fine with ARP head studs.

 

18g will need fuel pump and injectors to get a good safe tune.

 

Your oil pump should be fine.

 

Don't forget the,

remove both banjo filters

crush washers for the banjo's

1/2 moons for the valve covers.

clean the engine grounds

new oil return hose from turbo

heater hoses

radiator hoses, I did replace both pressure caps last Fall

IMO stock pistons will be fine as long as the tune is safe, your not looking for max HP.

You'll want [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D0MJKU/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1]These[/ame] -- Another $200, I know, but they're worth it. If you really can't swing it, you CAN reuse your old headbolts. They're Torque-To-Yield, which means they're pre-stretched (hence, the weird-ass head torquing sequence) so all you need to do is re-torque them down (30-60-90,90) in the right sequence. Recommend shooting alot of clean motor oil in the bolt holes to eliminate the "creaking" sound the bolts make when you're tightening them down.

Half moons, if they're in good shape and not obliterated on the edges (usually from prying them out to clean/deck heads) can be reused.

Before you start buying all this, what are you're plans/goals for it? You mention you what to upgrade to the 18G, which leads to upgraded pump & injectors. What UP & DP are you using currently, or do you plan on upgrading those too?

You stated a shop is going to do the work, with all the additional upgrades, plus labor, you're looking closer to $7k.

Your car is probably worth all of $7-9k on the private market.

Even if you source the parts yourself, UNLESS you do the labor there are no savings. As mentioned once you got beyond stage 2 you're looking at more costly additional upgrades.

So if you don't have $7-9k to do this right, dump the car and go buy something more reliable.

Don't mind Rob, he's just bitter because his tunnel plug collapsed and now his ass sounds like a kazoo.

Before you start buying all this, what are you're plans/goals for it?

This has been the biggest thing running through my head and what I've been debating the most. I haven't set in on a specific plan yet, which is part of the reason I started this thread. Ultimately I'd love a solid DD with more kick than I had before (stg, 2 MOAR POWER!!). I would love to be part of the 3sum crowd (300 hp, my ship sailed on the other kind of 3sum see wedding comment) or in the upper 2's.

However that is not my main motivation or end all be all. I just figure no harm in trying to figure out what it would take. And if I'm spending this $ on a rebuild, I plan on keeping it minimum 5 years. So I guess my main goal is make it good, strong, fun, reliable, and if possible, faster. If it just ends up being too much, that's totally fine and I'll go another route. That's part of the reason why we have these forums right?

What UP & DP are you using currently, or do you plan on upgrading those too?

You stated a shop is going to do the work, with all the additional upgrades, plus labor, you're looking closer to $7k.

CNT DP and STi UP. The shop quoted me $6500 or so altogether. Buying the ej257 and gasket kit from Mr.Tris's link saves me $400 off their quote. And an 18G at $775 saves me another $440 off the stock VF40 replacement I was quoted. (I upgraded my oil feed lines immediately when I purchased the car and removed banjo filters, idk if this meets BNR's requirements for their turbo yet, so may be more for new lines)

So that by itself is over $800 in savings off my original quote. I DO NOT have any disillusions that everything will end up as planned. I am fully aware of the limitless curve balls life throws when you're sitting on a fastball. Or is often the case, sitting curveball, and get a fastball off the elbow. (yes, I played baseball )

Your car is probably worth all of $7-9k on the private market.

Even if you source the parts yourself, UNLESS you do the labor there are no savings. As mentioned once you got beyond stage 2 you're looking at more costly additional upgrades.

So if you don't have $7-9k to do this right, dump the car and go buy something more reliable.

First of all, my car is worth like, a billion dollars . But I see your point. Wanna come help with the labor? Lots of beer and pizza? And I'm near Seattle, microbreweries like every 90 feet. But idk how I dump this thing. I wouldn't get jack giving the fact it needs a new motor.

Thanks fellas

If it drives find a lot that advertises $3-4k on anything that drives. They are running it here in Reno all the time.

I'll tell you I had a failing motor and unknowingly a turbo on the way out. I've bought the car again over the last 12 months. Everytime I tell myself it's the wise financial move, and in fact for each choice it is the 'least costly option'.

However over the last year I've forked over nearly $10k, I have a car that's worth $12k and has 118k on the clock. I could have traded it in while still running reasonably well and got $6-7k for it, which I would have put towards a Lexus IS350.

Instead I'll never break even, though I don't have a car payment. My car is now 9 years old, getting older by the day and other stuff keeps coming up. It's showing it's age on the interior and the sun not so kind to the headlights. So it takes a lot of LTC to keep it running.

I just dropped another $200 to fix an exhaust leak caused by a shop to re-installed a pipe incorrectly causing it to fail.

Run the numbers, while it might suck to walk away from it, that might be the best move. It would have been the best move for me just to junk my car and keep my cash; putting it into something newer. Because as I drive around with an exhaust leak, I cannot help but wish I was in a newer better appointed and built car.

But hey. I have a Subaru Legacy GT everyone on here loves and I get given a hard time for telling the facts. So many PITA things to watch out for like the oil return line off the turbo that's just rubber, if it fails, dumps oil out and you can replace both motor and turbo in the process. Lovely

Whatever you do, make sure you know what you're doing. Trip to Seattle would be fun and if I didn't have a lot going on, I'd take you up on the drive (in a rental car or flight)

OP, didn't know you were local. Where are you having the work done?

I'd be happy to come help turn a wrench, too!

PM JmP69698881234 if you're at all interested in having your turbo rebuilt. He rebuilt my stock VF40, and I think there's pics of it in my thread. It was around what you're wanting to pay for the 18G, but, it'll save you later because you won't have to upgrade your fuel system (pump, injectors, rails, etc), which could set you back another $500 on top of that.

300hp was my goal, too, and honestly, for the extra oomph in cash that'll get us there, it's not worth it right now. I just want a running car. Remember: You're starting over with a brand new motor, and you'll have PLENTY of miles to upgrade down the road, pun intended.

Where you're at now, with your current mods, a good EBCS and a solid tune will net you upper 200s, no problem. I'm currently expecting to see 275-295 on a Mustang Dyno once I'm officially tuned, and honestly, that's kickass power for a just-above-stock car.

I rode in Boxkita's wagon just before it went kaboom and I believe he was harnessing all 335ish whp, which, at the time, was pretty goddamn fast. I'm fairly certain that I myself will not notice the lack of a missing 30-40hp, especially since I'll I really want is a fun, punchy car to drive back and forth to work. (I think we're looking for about the same thing. ) I have no interest in building hp for any kind of competition or quest for a number above 335whp, max.

Add some Group N mounts to your list. I recommend getting them from Flatirons Tuning, I got my set for about $170. (R, L and pitch stop, since I'm 5EAT)

It's easy to make these things a reliable DD with your hp goals and turbo. See my click here link.

I have 39,000 miles on it now. 60,000 on the vf52.

If it drives find a lot that advertises $3-4k on anything that drives. They are running it here in Reno all the time.

Hmm, haven't seen/noticed those here, then again haven't been looking.

Run the numbers, while it might suck to walk away from it, that might be the best move. It would have been the best move for me just to junk my car and keep my cash

I still owe $ on the car, even getting 3k for it still leaves me in a big hole, but with no car. As you and others are well aware, it's a tough spot. And I did want out of it and into something newer before this happened.

OP, didn't know you were local. Where are you having the work done?

I'd be happy to come help turn a wrench, too!

PM JmP69698881234 if you're at all interested in having your turbo rebuilt. He rebuilt my stock VF40, and I think there's pics of it in my thread. It was around what you're wanting to pay for the 18G, but, it'll save you later because you won't have to upgrade your fuel system (pump, injectors, rails, etc), which could set you back another $500 on top of that.

Getting it done at All Wheel Drive Auto in Kirkland. I'm in Everett and usually mob up to Bellingham to see Adam at NW Rally Sports, but it's just too far. Even with the savings in labor and accessibility he provides. I'll PM Jmp if I go that route, if I don't go 18G I may just go 16G since it wouldn't require the upgraded fuel system and has more ooomph that the VF40. Not sure how it compares to the VF52. But I'd have to buy used if I went that route.

Thanks

Drive what YOU want. Cars are consumables just like milk, eggs, and toilet paper. Sure you could go spend $20k on a new-ish car and watch $10k dissappear to depreciation before you go through a set of tires. It all comes down to your preference.

I just started a stage 3 project with a BNR 18G... it snowballed up from a simple vf40 replacement. I'm working through some bugs right now and I know there would be cheaper/easier to own options out there. At the end of the day though I have the car I want to drive and that makes all the difference. I'll never get my money back on her, but the same can be said for my wife's Mazda 6...

Little update... Car, has been running good and the cooling system is working properly again. Just as it normally should. So idk wtf that is all about. We'll see how long this holds up. Oil consumption seemed to have slowed also. Maybe it's giving me enough time to get through a wedding.

I have everything ready to purchase, but haven't purchased anything yet as I'm milking all the time I can. Was able to knock almost a grand off the shops quotes on parts. I'm gonna go 16G, and use the $ saved NOT upgrading my fuel system getting a good tune on it when the time comes. The more I thought about an 18G the more I just kept seeing $$$ that I don't have lol