How To: Replace/Rebuild torn CV boot and/or Axle

When I replaced the rear diff last summer, one of the studs backed out and I had to let the nose of the diff down slowly and finish backing the stud out.

 

I also could only get the drivers side of the front diff mount yoke bolt out. I just tied the yoke off to the trailing arm with a tie down strap. I used my tranny jack to lower the diff.

Thanks for the walk-thought! Giving it a go this weekend. Fingers crossed!

Oh hmmmm that would be easier. Only thing there that scares me is all the rusted bolts that have never been broken loose.

 

True. PB Blaster to da max .

Man thanks for this thread! Saved me some money, was kinda lazy lol but ended up not taking as long as I thought it would.

Thanks! Buying a new car this week and looks like this be required in the upcoming future.

Thank you! thank you! thank you! Your instructions were spot on.

 

The job was easier than I expected and my 06 Legacy GT is now sporting a new front passenger axle.

this is a great write up with awesome pictures!!

gonna start mine next week. hopefully i dont have any problems with a new axle.

Im gonna try a new one not remaned. the price difference is small and i have 166000 on my

05 gtl. so a new axle wont hurt

First allow me to thank you for your brilliant article on legacy cv boot replacement.

I have a 2006 Outback (Australian) with an almost identical drive setup. I was, however, unable to free the stub axle from the hub and proceeded as follows.

1) Remove the steering knuckle from the hub being careful not to upset the adjustment. This allows more movement in the hub assy.

2) Remove the boot clamps and push the boot towards the outer end.

3) Remove the wire clip from the basket.

You can now remove the shaft from the inner basket.

4) Remove the circlip and yoke from the shaft and lever the basket out of the gear box. Plug the hole with a bit of clean rag to stop oil leakage.

5) Remove the old boot and fit the new one.

6) After cleaning everything, fill the basket with new grease, adding some to the yoke and bearings and then reassemble.

N.b. The right hand side was a bit more difficult due to the exhaust pipe but the job was done without disturbing the wheel nuts.

P.S. I am 73 years old so I'm sure you young blades could knock this over in no time.

Once again many thanks for your helpful article.

John Sharples

Thanks to the OP and everyone who contributed. Got mine PS boot replaced this weekend, I never thought I could do anything like that myself. Car is up and running fine. Was impressed with the shape of CV internals after 125K hard miles.

 

Few things to share:

 

1. I went the route of undoing the ball joint from LCA. With FSB link disconnected this gave me enough sway to remove the axle from the tranny and the hub. However, when assembling back make sure you insert the axle into the tranny completely, otherwise it is impossible to get ball joint back into the LCA. Other than that, assembly was a cake.

 

2. Make sure you have the right tool for boot clamps. I didn't have the right one and had to get one from Autozone in the middle of work. That cost me about 3 hours.

 

3. Reusing OEM boot clamps is probably a bad idea even if they lock back OK. I tried that (see #2) and it locked back fine but then while trying to get the other one to lock the first one broke. It is not meant to be reused.

 

4. I used a piece of 2x4 to push down on LCA to get the ball joint out and then in at reassembly. While I have crow bars with 2x4 there were fewer changes to destroy the ball joint boot (I have almost new GTSpecs so kind of touchy about screwing them up).

Edited January 16, 2013 by SubOperator

Another word of wisdom: When replacing one of the boots, it might be wise to do both. I have replaced the outer on my DS and inner on my PS and now both of the others are seeping small amounts of grease

Another word of wisdom: When replacing one of the boots, it might be wise to do both. I have replaced the outer on my DS and inner on my PS and now both of the others are seeping small amounts of grease

 

+1 on that. I will definetily get both replaced next time simply due to amount of work needed to get the CV out. Btw the clamps on inner and outer boots are different style - at least they were on my PS CV axle and as far as I know it was never replaced (got the car used with <9K on it).

OK I have replaced both axles, but now the boots are loose and leaked out all the grease. I need to repack the grease and re-clamp with good clamps. Where do I get clamps that will hold that will not through off the balance or do I have to worry about that. Can I use regular clamps you clamp a hose with?

 

Scott

They make CV boot straps (available at the auto parts store). But they are basically the same as the straps used to hold heat wrap. A worm gear clamp will work. It will not throw off the balance.

There he is lurking, I figured you were gone for the night? Thanks buddy

 

Scott

Where can I get the right type of grease without having to buy a boot kit?

An autoparts store should have axle grease.

CV boot w/ straps and grease from Rock Auto just under $19 shipping included.

A CV boot banding and cutter tool, 32mm impact socket both from Amazon just under $33 shipping included.

 

So for a total of just under $52 you can replace the boot plus get the experience and know how for next time, which will be cheaper then because you bought the banding/cutting tool and socket the first time. Plus, you don't have any unwanted parts laying around your garage/house collecting dust and taking up space.

 

Just my .02

CV boot w/ straps and grease from Rock Auto just under $19 shipping included.

A CV boot banding and cutter tool, 32mm impact socket both from Amazon just under $33 shipping included.

 

So for a total of just under $52 you can replace the boot plus get the experience and know how for next time, which will be cheaper then because you bought the banding/cutting tool and socket the first time. Plus, you don't have any unwanted parts laying around your garage/house collecting dust and taking up space.

 

Just my .02

 

+1. I've changed two boots thus far and they are both holding just fine. One has 30000 miles and the other 20000. I've already bought another kit just in case .

Replacing the boot does not correct worn bearings within the joint. For the $75-$100 for a re-manufactured unit (with a lifetime warranty) you are wasting your time replacing boots. The bearings are what are spinning with every revolution of your tires.

Replacing the boot does not correct worn bearings within the joint. For the $75-$100 for a re-manufactured unit (with a lifetime warranty) you are wasting your time replacing boots. The bearings are what are spinning with every revolution of your tires.

 

Sure. I am assuming one can change a torn boot if and only if it is caught on time.

Replacing the boot does not correct worn bearings within the joint. For the $75-$100 for a re-manufactured unit (with a lifetime warranty) you are wasting your time replacing boots. The bearings are what are spinning with every revolution of your tires.

 

In theory, sure, this is an issue. In practice, most axles will reboot just fine. The Subaru axle is pretty tough. I had one go for months, rebooted, still going strong. No sound. Just did the other one, but I caught that early.

 

It's so easy, reboot and see how it goes. You will hear the axle long before it fails. Someone over on subaruoutback.org claims he reboots even when they are making sounds and with new lube they are fine. I believe it quite honestly.

I call TOTAL BS. As the owner/operator of a full service Subie shop and the (current) owner of 3 LGT's and 1 WRX I guarantee I have far more experience than most on the forum and deff more than some internet wiz telling everyone else how to ruin their cars.

 

It costs approx $75 (after core exchange) for a re-manufactured axle with a lifetime warranty. Two new boots, all new internals. You are wasting money and time re-booting at those costs.

 

I routinely remove axles (with torn boots) that customers drove until they "heard a noise". Guess what? 9 times out of 10 when we pull the axle from the tranny it separates at the CV housing. Because the internal bearings are so shot and worn that with less than 10lbs of pressure it disintegrates. Bearings fall out and hit the floor.

 

All I can recommend is saving time and money, having a warranty and replacing everything with "new" (for less time and money then re-booting).

I said it in the beginning, and I'll say it again. I will NEVER replace a boot again. Massive waste of time.

 

I'm with Mike on this.

Having done the boot replacement route. ^Ditto to the nth on simply replacing the whote axle.

I call TOTAL BS. As the owner/operator of a full service Subie shop and the (current) owner of 3 LGT's and 1 WRX I guarantee I have far more experience than most on the forum and deff more than some internet wiz telling everyone else how to ruin their cars.

 

It costs approx $75 (after core exchange) for a re-manufactured axle with a lifetime warranty. Two new boots, all new internals. You are wasting money and time re-booting at those costs.

 

I routinely remove axles (with torn boots) that customers drove until they "heard a noise". Guess what? 9 times out of 10 when we pull the axle from the tranny it separates at the CV housing. Because the internal bearings are so shot and worn that with less than 10lbs of pressure it disintegrates. Bearings fall out and hit the floor.

 

All I can recommend is saving time and money, having a warranty and replacing everything with "new" (for less time and money then re-booting).

 

It all depends on how quickly the boot is replaced after it tears. I replaced my boots on a '92 Nissan Maxima (famous for going through boots) when the car had around 60k miles on it. They were still going strong when my wife wrecked the car at 138k miles. The thing is though, I checked under the car at every oil change and caught the torn boot when it had gone only 100 miles or so. The joint and bearings were still completely covered in grease when I pulled off the old boots.

 

The reason I'm so hesitant on reman. axles is I've had problems with them in the past. Vibrations, poor fitment, shoddy quality, etc. From my experience the best thing to do is keep the stock axles and reboot as long as you take care of a torn boot immediately. The only way I'll go reman. again is if there's a lot of good feedback from users on the forum about a certain brand.