Recently got a 2005 Subaru Outback XT Limited. What now?

#1 Concern Reliability. 3/17/12 I stumbled onto a deal and a half which is why I bought this car. I was not looking turbo and was looking at 2000 and 2001 Limited Wagons. It has 124,000miles. It runs okay (somewhat of a rough idle, and a bit of a rumbling hesitation at first acceleration) but it feels great on the highway, runs smooth as can be, and has no extra scary issues. I absolutely love this wagon and the double moonroof. I know it has had the right cylinder head replaced and it doesn't leak any oil or other fluids. I am a technician and even have some ASE certifications but subarus and more importantly turbo cars/subarus are a mystery to me. I have bought a clutch(clutchmasters fx300) and flywheel(act prolite) for the car since my worn stock clutch apparently slips under heavy acceleration. Fywheel is a single mass flywheel based on 07 wrx design and clutch was ordered for 07 wrx as well. Through speaking with a representative I've known for awhile at clutchmasters he said single mass is the way to go. He did not know of my purchase of the flywheel and the difference in reciprocating weight 38lbs stock to 10lbs prolite does worry me based on driveability however I have owned a car with a prolite flywheel before. Also, I purchased a Grimmspeed uppipe and the three gaskets involved so that this can be done with the clutch since the downpipe will already be removed and out of the way. I purchased this based on the catalyst failure stories that risk turbos and motors. I dont care about making this some street beast and only went with the prolite flywheel cause of the money savings I got on it. Im used to owning 3-5 cars at a time. Currently this is my only vehicle due to tax time resulting in a 2 week period where I sold 3 cars.

 

So that is where I am to date. The question is where to go from here. I have convinced myself that I want a Cobb Accessport but have been unable to find one within my price range so far. So what else would be good? Sway bars? New radio? BlueConnect? Start saving for new turbo? Cobb sf intake? 50/50BOV? New TMIC? FMIC? Wheels? LGT Wagon suspension?

 

Thank you

I think you should ask the mods to move your thread to the 4th gen section, you'll get a ton more info there. But based on your info that light weight flywheel may be a hassle to drive with, most guys go w/ the oem 07+ wrx single mass flywheel, but the fx300 is sweet from the reviews I've seen and is most likely my next clutch. Since you got a 05, recomendations are replace the up pipe for sure to get rid of that cat, check clean and or get rid of the banjo bolt filter, get a high flow down pipe and a etune (various vendors on forum) and or road/dyno tune and forget the accessport, can get the same/better power for half the price. Change the oil every 3-4k miles, do maintence work and call it good to go. If you have the stock v40 then you might want to look at a replacement turbo in the near future, most dont trust them past 100k miles with good maintence. And lastly check out the 05+ forums as there is a ton of info on the turbo side, welcome to the club and enjoy

Its in the proper section?

not if he wants to get advise from the NA crowd on a turbo car

Skip the AP and get a $15 vag-com cable from ebay and get an open source tune for ~$150.

 

If you plan to use the utility space of the wagon, don't go too aggressive on suspension mods. Sway bars do a lot.

 

Before doing any engine mods, perform a compression and leakdown test. If this is your first Subaru, the "idling rough" might be normal idle.

not if he wants to get advise from the NA crowd on a turbo car

 

Ok let me clarify my dumb comment, right section for Outback info, but I'd also recommend searching around the LGT 4th gen section as there is far more turbo info there. Either way good luck with the car

Please explain the ?banjo bolt filter? Get rid of it? Where is it? what is its purpose? why get rid of it?

"pull pin and throw" this may help

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html

 

** - this too-> http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/attn-new-members-look-here-first-67940.html

Thanks guys for your posts im definitely going to handle the clutch, uppipe, and banjo bolt filter this week. Also, I will be installing a turbo timer to try and help extend turbo life. Next bit of savings I guess I would like to see going towards strut tower and sway bars, then probably a tune. Do these motors eat oil? I have no leaks and I havent seen any blue smoke during driving or acceleration

A turbo timer would be at the top of my list to spend money on to "prolong" the life of my high mileage turbo.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you believe that you need to either

1. SELL YOUR CAR

2. read more on the forum before you waste your time and wreck your high mileage motor because you don't understand your LGT yet

Los Angeles....Does a turbo timer not help? Its my understanding that the turbo has coolant lines and oil lines ran to it to lubricate and cool the turbo. When the car gets shut off right away after running the car with the turbo spooled the car stops pumping coolant and oil to the turbo to help it cool. By not allowing the car to idle for a few minutes you basically leave the turbo dry to cool on its own and this neglect will cause the turbo issues quicker than if allowed a cool down period aided by coolant and oil. Is this different on subarus?

A turbo timer would be at the top of my list to spend money on to "prolong" the life of my high mileage turbo.

 

If you believe that you need to either

1. SELL YOUR CAR

2. read more on the forum before you waste your time and wreck your high mileage motor because you don't understand your LGT yet

 

A turbo timer is a good idea on any turbo car, period.

Uh...

 

Please do more research. These cars do not need any additional cool-down cycle for the turbo. There is a dedicated coolant reservoir for the turbo which flows coolant through the turbo after the car has been shut down.

 

A turbo timer is a waste of money and fuel.

A turbo timer is a good idea on any turbo car, period.

 

No, not needed and we don't want to hear about your periods, girlfriend.

 

Los Angeles....Does a turbo timer not help?

 

Are you doing 10 back to back dragstrip pulls and then shutting down the car immediately? Neither is anyone else. Keep in mind this is a water/oil cooled modern turbo with typical reliability of 100k+miles (banjo starvation is not a turbo issue, its a banjo issue). Also see post #13

 

By not allowing the car to idle for a few minutes you basically leave the turbo dry to cool on its own and this neglect will cause the turbo issues quicker than if allowed a cool down period aided by coolant and oil.

 

Please explain how not allowing the car to idle for a few minutes leaves the turbo dry to cool. Anyhow, if you want to maximize longevity (after ALL maintenance):

 

1. Replace that 100k+ mi turbo

2. Remove banjo bolt filter (or IPT Oil Line Kit if you have the $, I suggest this with turbo upgrades, not needed for the oem turbo but I have one on my wifes car for peace of mind/ease of checking the filter)

3. Decat your UPPipe or replace with catless (you can decat and break off the tip of the sensor probe and reinset it and you will still look bone stock after turning off the CEL with a tune that you already want)

4a. STOP modding the car at stage 1 tune

4b. downpipe, aftermarket TMIC (I like avo) stage 2 tune

EDIT2: 5. KillerB Oil Pickup

 

Most importantly, PLEASE, before you spend the money on a bigger turbo vs rebuilt/oem replacement, if you want to go stage 2, try stage 2 FIRST. I am betting its plenty of power for you and a rebuilt core from BnR will be the most cost effective long term way to reach your goals. Sorry for the long post.

 

EDIT: Both the wife and I considered the OBXT to be a terrible driver till upgraded swaybars. I suggest Hotchkiss F&R, Avo mounts and you are going to need rear links. I suggest Kartboy, they seem to be very popular and I run them.

Uh...

 

Please do more research. These cars do not need any additional cool-down cycle for the turbo. There is a dedicated coolant reservoir for the turbo which flows coolant through the turbo after the car has been shut down.

 

A turbo timer is a waste of money and fuel.

 

I am fully aware that they utilize a 'convection' style cooling system for the turbo using the second reservoir. That being said, there is no replacement for a mechanical pump when it comes to circulating coolant in an aged system.

^opinion not fact. Search the mod threads here as well as look at timed/staged vs stage0 turbo longevity. A turbo timer will do nothing for New2Turbo except cost him money. Also, the replacement for an aged mechanical pump is a new mechanical pump

^opinion not fact. Search the mod threads here as well as look at timed/staged vs stage0 turbo longevity. A turbo timer will do nothing for New2Turbo except cost him money. Also, the replacement for an aged mechanical pump is a new mechanical pump

 

You're right, but over time cooling systems and the coolant it self degrades. Replacing the coolant doesn't typically remove deposits from the system itself. Deposits and decay that convection can't typically overcome as well withsome age. A mechanical pump however generates enough pressure no matter what to make up for the reduction in cooling ability.

 

Ideally, an electric after run pump is the best option.. but not in everyones needs or budget.

 

It may be opinion, but better safe than sorry.

Just found out aftermarket TMIC will not fit on OBXTs our engine sits lower and doesn't have enough clearance on the CMC.

The engine does indeed sit lower, but people have certainly run aftermarket tmic's on obxt's with no issues

Don't get an IPR. It won't fit.

 

BAC5.2 has the best experience to tell what works.