My Betty :) Pic heavy

http://imageshack.com/a/img537/7995/eH3bVk.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img537/2295/3GCFxh.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img908/8298/5PmmDb.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img538/6391/dhXSAY.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img661/7027/8JBh4B.jpghttp://imageshack.com/a/img540/5374/gvFZNN.jpg

im sorry to momentarily jack your thread but do you have a round about price what the tigwerks header goes for with bellows in it? im looking into headers for the future and im trying to get an idea of my options and prices I didn't really want to try and contact them/him before im really ready if I can get an answer otherwise. any response is a much appreciated. thanks. really like the new under pan as well.

He quoted me $1100. He's on FaceBook. When ever he posts i end up drooling.

Side note. Should be getting the final approval on my new house next week. So no stage three for a while. Gotta build a Garage when it goes through. 2 Story 28x38

Well bad turbo means this will be updated with a dyno plot for my 18g soon.

sorry and glad to hear at the same time, lol. I will have to let you know what mine is making with the 18g on it when it goes to the dyno in two days.

Yeah mines going on the dyno the 1st. still awaiting parts from smy.

just got back from the dyno, after they detuned it from the e-tune from before it put down 380hp - 364tq on the 18g (w/ 10cm exhaust side and 3 inch inlet on intake of turbo). also have 1000cc injectors, STI intake and tmic. so you might be able to expect something like high 300's with a similar setup. mine was limited by what the trans could take as its still the 5 speed. if not for that I would be over 400 so I think you might be able to go far above me without trying very hard since your running the 6 speed.

NIce.

bikerx500 what 18g do you have that produces that much power that's more like a 20g.

blouch : WRX/STi TD05H-18G-XT. it was actually making 440tq@4k for the baseline run, which he stopped when he saw that since im only running the stock 5 speed lol

Impressive

Update. this weekend it goes together.

http://imageshack.com/a/img901/4205/ONWcRf.jpg

Another update.

http://imageshack.com/a/img912/5681/kuvY16.jpg

what fmic is that? keep foglights?

what fmic is that? keep foglights?

 

AVO, and based on his other posts he is having issues with fitment keeping the foglights.

Yup AVO i love the fit and finish but the outback fogs are massive. Some can fit them some can't i'm getting some shallow mount versions. stock are 4.7" round so 4.5" ones should fit.

Add some engine porn for you. lol

http://imageshack.com/a/img540/667/teGWth.jpg

Edited June 3, 2015 by Nightmaresmk

Hard work but no extra supplies on site and no welder has slowed me down.

AVO FMIC kit i give a 6 out of 10. mine was visibly different from scooby2.5s The lower right hand tube i have to cut and add a joiner so it can rotate enough to meet the Intercooler with out kinking. The upper left pipe is 1" to long and the bypass valve does not match up with the hose nor does it come with an adapter. The instructions are for a different design.

 

http://imageshack.com/a/img901/4900/z8Kdoq.jpg

 

Update Emailed AVO US and he is talking with their factory to find out why my kit is so different from every other lgt fmic. updated kit with bad instructions.

Edited June 13, 2015 by Nightmaresmk
Avo

Updated page one with current pic of the engine bay. Had to replace the upper hose and coolant res due to the FMIC.

Car is running great no more exhaust leaks.

Just curious, but is your front crash beam modified any?

Yes. I removed the foam and cut the bottom section off for better flow fitment. Third pic up shows it quite well.

Did you ever get any answers from AVO about the fitment issues on the FMIC?

It is the new version of the kit and they did not redo the instruction nor put any info out on the changes they made and how they work.

I had to replace the coolant res. I Cut the lower left tube added a sleeve and a bracket. the bumper beam had the lowest section removed. drivers side had 1" removed from the throttle body end and a bracket welded on.

you can see most of it in this pic. I ordered a venair bypass valve tube i am hoping will work.

http://imageshack.com/a/img673/2130/uvnZ9v.jpg

All in all the parts are quality and it does have the basic design down. If any one buys it i can help sort the issues. i still love it now that i addressed the issues. .

so details on the fuel supply? so input goes over to passenger side rail, then drivers side rail, then FPR and back out? or does it come in, T off and feed both rails, then exit both rails, T back together and then to FPR and out?

I ran series from 4-2 then it goes 3-1 then FPR. I have dampeners on the fuel rails themselves. I don't like the T design for feeding them that was included it should be a Y block like EFI logics uses on their builds.

pic or something of the Y block?

 

Also, given the idea behind the FPR location/use on the 07-09 LGT/OBXTs, what is really the best way to route?

 

Have a fuel manifold, have 4 lines out that feet each end of the rails (2 for each rail), and then attach the FPR to the manifold as well and allow excess pressure/fuel to go back to tank before getting too hot (and carry the hot fuel that's in the lines out the injectors)?

 

so many ways to skin a cat, but these stock lines/system has some ridiculous issues.

 

So have you zero'd your per injector IPW comp tables and don't have any significant dips or spikes in your correction/learning?