perrin inlet install help

I removed my old torn inlet and Im trying to put the new one in. According to the directions I was given it says to cut the crank case vent hose. Which I did. But I dont understand how it will fit into the top hole on the inlet hose. There was a white plug on there too. I have a picture of the hose I cut too. Any help would be appreciated. I wish I wouldve paid a shop to do this.

 

I tried searching but most of the posts seem to be before they redesigned the hose. I dont think the old ones have the hole on the top.

 

 

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/bananamane/DSC_0006-1.jpg

Looks like if I didnt cut it that it would fit into the top hole but without the plug.

 

 

Here are the directions....step 8

 

http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/subaru/pspint421.pdf

 

 

Could I just do step 5 in these directions?

 

http://www.perrinperformance.com/shared/PERRIN/documents/instructions/subaru/pspint420.pdf

 

Im assuming I could just do that and put a 90degree thing on the top hole ?

Morning bump.

 

No one?

I installed mine a while back, and working from my fabulous memory but here goes.

 

The white plug is a sensor that is supposed to determine when you need a new PCV valve. I completely removed it from the intake but left it intact (taped it up and let it rest somewhere).

 

I skipped the "90 degree" directions, as they did not make sense to me and the supplied fittings did not seem to fit the hose. Instead I went to the Auto Parts store and bought some new heater hose for all the "crankcase ventilation" connections to the inlet. I am not sure of the size but you want to make sure the hose is small enough to fit snugly on the aluminum "Perrin" fittings, but large enough to squeeze onto the plastic factory fittings (such as the PCV and plastic crankcase crossover tubes)

 

Let me know if there is more info you need.

I installed mine a while back, and working from my fabulous memory but here goes.

 

The white plug is a sensor that is supposed to determine when you need a new PCV valve. I completely removed it from the intake but left it intact (taped it up and let it rest somewhere).

 

I skipped the "90 degree" directions, as they did not make sense to me and the supplied fittings did not seem to fit the hose. Instead I went to the Auto Parts store and bought some new heater hose for all the "crankcase ventilation" connections to the inlet. I am not sure of the size but you want to make sure the hose is small enough to fit snugly on the aluminum "Perrin" fittings, but large enough to squeeze onto the plastic factory fittings (such as the PCV and plastic crankcase crossover tubes)

 

Let me know if there is more info you need.

 

OK I'll plug the plug back in and then tape it up.

I got some hose. It first the 90 degree connector on the top but Real tight on the other end. Guess I'll try to heat it up a little. It's such a pain it's so tight down there.

 

I wonder why the instructions don't mention anything about the white plug after pulling it out.

I got the pcv hose connected to the top and everything back together. I went to start it and got a cel. I forgot to plug the white plug back in. Now I can't find it but I found another piece of thin metal and put it in and now cel went off. As long as I'm not getting a cel and no hoses fly off I guess everything is good then huh?

 

Thanks for the help

I think you should be good to go.

 

You must have gotten the same diameter hose that I did, because it was a snug fit on the Perrin fittings and almost too small for the factory (plastic) ones . I ended up heating them up to fit. I also "tie-wrapped" the connections I could manage to get to.

Oddly enough I didnt have to cut my hose, I just turned and angled it more toward the turbo side with no issues. But this wont help because you already did it.

Thanks. Its all together now though.

 

I do have another question for you though. Where the inlet hose meets the stock hose off the airbox, did you cut either one or use that metal coupler inside the perrin? I pulled out the coupler alittle and have it inside the airbox hose and a little inside the perrin hose. Heres a picture of what it looks like. I dont think it looks right though. Can you put up a picture of yours? Those two hoses that go in those grooves dont line up anymore.

 

 

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/bananamane/C360_2012-06-10-07-07-52.jpg

 

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/bananamane/C360_2012-06-10-07-07-24.jpg

It is called aftermarket. Lol.

Like this? What about the MAF?

 

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-65/Perrin-AFTA-dsh-MAF-Hose/Detail

Perrin parts tend to fit with a "twist". 50% of the time, they fit fine. The rest... Buying more parts is not the answer. The answer is that aftermarket is not OEM. Do not anticipate OEM fitment. It is called "custom" for a reason. You already spent over $100 more than you needed to in order to replace your inlet tube. For what is most likely zero performance gain. Save your money.

That actually looks fine. I would caution you against tightening the clamps too tight though. The Perrin aluminum coupler will bend.

 

As far as the grooves lining up, Msprank said it ; "aftermarket".

I installed mine a while back, and working from my fabulous memory but here goes.

 

The white plug is a sensor that is supposed to determine when you need a new PCV valve. I completely removed it from the intake but left it intact (taped it up and let it rest somewhere).

 

I skipped the "90 degree" directions, as they did not make sense to me and the supplied fittings did not seem to fit the hose. Instead I went to the Auto Parts store and bought some new heater hose for all the "crankcase ventilation" connections to the inlet. I am not sure of the size but you want to make sure the hose is small enough to fit snugly on the aluminum "Perrin" fittings, but large enough to squeeze onto the plastic factory fittings (such as the PCV and plastic crankcase crossover tubes)

 

Let me know if there is more info you need.

Can you elaborate on the plastic sensor on hose?Are you saying unplug the sensor? and just leave it there?

I bought my hose second hand and don't have the supplied clamps etc. That's ok, but what do I do with that connector going to the top of the inlt manifold?

Do whatever you want with it. We trim them down and tuck them away at the shop. It is just a jumper.

Figured it out. Thanks guys..

Finished Install. now it's running lean as heck...Checked over all the vacuum lines; they're intact. DON'T KNoW What to do!!!

post MAF/pre-turbo leak.

Found it. MAP sensor hose was attached to the wrong hole....OOOOps. "That's NOT what she said"

Lol.

I am replacing my Turbo with the BNR EVO/16G, and over Thanksgiving I took out the old one to be ready when the replacement arrives.

In doing so, I found that my Inlet Tube is in bad shape. Are you saying that even when replacing the Inlet Tube not to go aftermarket?

 

Perrin parts tend to fit with a "twist". 50% of the time, they fit fine. The rest... Buying more parts is not the answer. The answer is that aftermarket is not OEM. Do not anticipate OEM fitment. It is called "custom" for a reason. You already spent over $100 more than you needed to in order to replace your inlet tube. For what is most likely zero performance gain. Save your money.

OEm is cheaper (approx $90) and works just fine. No performance gain with a 16g from an inlet tube.

Au contraire mon frere...While the Perrin may not add significant gains,the stock one inevitably deteriorates from contact with oil from the turbo. Happened to both of my Subaru's.

Silicone is degraded by oil too. But it is cooler to watch because you get to see it change colors as the oil is absorbed.

 

If you have so much blow by back into the inlet tube that your inlet tube is saturating with oil and leaking, you have other problems too. Not just a ruined inlet tube. The inlet tube should last a good 100k miles if not more.

 

I just pulled the turbo from Kemosavis car on Saturday (OEM turbo and inlet, 120k miles). Yes it is larger than it should be, but it is not torn or leaking. I might replace it, or I might not if budget does not allow.

Thanks, OEM replacement is on order.