ACT HD vs Bully

Hi All,

 

My '05 LGT is due for a clutch very soon. When I do the clutch I will also be going to Stage 2 with an aftermarket TMIC. I've been unsuccessfully debating with myself whether to go with the ACT HD setup, or with a Bully with the stage 2 disc & stage 4 pressure plate.

 

The car is a daily driver, and it won't see track use. I'm a little concerned about some of the posts that mention clutch chatter with the ACT setup.

 

Any opinions/recommendations for either the ACT or Bully setup? Your comments would be greatly appreciated, I can't seem to make up my mind!

 

Thanks in Advance.

I do know what the limits are of the bully set-up, I barely exceeded them.

 

What are your end power goals?

 

I kinda think they both will hold about the same amount of power. I know of people that have exceeded both in torque capacity.

 

Either will hold up just fine to a stage2 all the way to a 20G, but if you like to run 22-23 psi and do so with race gas, E85 or alky, then in the peak torque area you may be asking for problems with either set-up.

 

Because of the needle bearings the Bully set-up is a bit nicer to drive, and has no chatter at all.

the needle bearings are in the pressure plate for the bully?

the needle bearings are in the pressure plate for the bully?

 

Yes, it allows for consistent peddle feel, longevity, and an increase in clamping force of about 38% with no increase in actual peddle effort.

LittleBlueGT, many thanks for the comments. It is definitely good to hear that chatter isn't an issue with the Bully setup. A couple more questions, if you don't mind?

 

Do you know with the Bully setup if it is "compatible" with the TSK kit? Should I also be considering this?

 

Did you go with a 06 WRX OEM flywheel?

 

Have you had any issues with the clutch in cold weather? It seems we never get too much info from folks about this.

 

Lastly, did you order from Bully directly?

 

Thanks again in advance.

LittleBlueGT, many thanks for the comments. It is definitely good to hear that chatter isn't an issue with the Bully setup. A couple more questions, if you don't mind?

 

Do you know with the Bully setup if it is "compatible" with the TSK kit? Should I also be considering this?

 

Did you go with a 06 WRX OEM flywheel?

 

Have you had any issues with the clutch in cold weather? It seems we never get too much info from folks about this.

 

Lastly, did you order from Bully directly?

 

Thanks again in advance.

 

No chatter at all. I had it for 50k/3+ years. I could spin all 4, but did so very rarely.

 

It is compatible with TSK3 kit, at least it should be, I am putting one on next month.

 

I do have an OEM 06 WRX fly, nice combo IMO.

 

I ordered from Bully directly, I was the first 06+ WRX conversation in a LGT. I did the research, bought uese parts, sent to Bully for measuring, etc....

 

Bully has sold about 60+ units now, and no troubles.

 

Two member have had trouble with it holding power, one was me at 50K running alky FMIC and a FPHTA68 at 22.5 psi. The other was NSFW running 25 psi on an ATP3076.

 

So, it will work just great for many turbos running 320 wtq sort of thing, but if you want 380+ wtq, you will need more holding power.

 

If you can wait, I will be selling my set-up (as I just received a newer Bully kit designed to have a PP with 175% the holding power of the OEM PP).

 

Why buy used?

 

Bully (as well as ACT) just uses OEM PP and discs, and modifies them. I will be selling my 06 WRX flywheel and disc and PP (I also have both new bearings). I will sell them to someone, ship them to Bully, they will get rebuilt (good as new) and then shipped to the new owner.

Sent you a PM

Do you know with the Bully setup if it is "compatible" with the TSK kit? Should I also be considering this?

 

Did you go with a 06 WRX OEM flywheel?

 

Have you had any issues with the clutch in cold weather? It seems we never get too much info from folks about this.

 

Lastly, did you order from Bully directly?

 

I installed mine with a TSK3 and 06 WRX FW, no problems there.

 

I had no problems, and the lowest temp mine saw was about 0F. Only LBGT would know how it behaves at lower temps than that.

 

I got mine direct from Bully.

 

Mine is coming out because I need something stronger to support my ATP 3076 at 25 psi. I suspect that my FW and PP are both fine, and just the clutch disk itself is glazed. If you can wait a few weeks (hopefully not that long, but worst case...) then I expect to put the FW and PP up for sale.

 

There's a chance that the FW and/or PP were damaged somehow, but won't know until I do the upgrade. It hasn't slipped much, so I think the chances are good that they're in good shape.

I just talked to Frank at Bully Clutches.

 

He doesn't charge too much to resurface and inspect a used PP, so that may be the way to go (less then $100). Assuming it is all good (which I suspect the case) then the PP would be as good as new.

 

I would resurface the flywheel for the minimal costs.

 

The disc can be resurfaced, if shipping the PP to Bully anyways, you may just want to send the disc as well, and then let him make the decision to rebuild it or just buy a new one.

 

All said and done, zavar, you should be able to save a couple hundred bucks, and have just as good of a set-up, and then NSFW can recoup some of his costs.

 

I will hold off on selling mine, as my buddies 09 WRX needs a new clutch (slipped once when running 20 psi in 3rd gear going 2000-7000 rpms) soon as well, so I will likely get mine checked over and sell it to him.

 

The cost of a new set-up (w/ bearings) is like $1056 IIRC + tax and shipping, I don't think you will get a much better deal then $100 off, if that, but I would bet you could get it from NSFW for a decent amount less.

 

Of course the fly will be extra.

nsfw and littlebluegt, so what clutch kit are you upgrading to now to handle the power you are making?

nsfw and littlebluegt, so what clutch kit are you upgrading to now to handle the power you are making?

 

For me:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3057938&postcount=106

For me:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3057938&postcount=106

 

thanks...I gotta figure out what to do for clutch or tranny as a whole as my gt35r powered lgt should be up and running before months end...I'll drive it around to start with on the ACT HD setup with streetlite flywheel, but I'm sure it won't last long regardless of the fact that I've had it on a stage 2 car for less than a year...

thanks...I gotta figure out what to do for clutch or tranny as a whole as my gt35r powered lgt should be up and running before months end...I'll drive it around to start with on the ACT HD setup with streetlite flywheel, but I'm sure it won't last long regardless of the fact that I've had it on a stage 2 car for less than a year...

 

The Bully set-up I had before has about the same capacity as your ACT set-up.

 

My new one should have 25% more holding power.

 

That being said, what sort of fuel or alky will you be running with the 35R?

 

At some point the 5MT is gonna be a big risk, and it will probably get to the point where you cannot run a full face disc, and then you will need a puck-clutch, which sucks for daily driving, etc....................

 

If you just want medium WTQ (like 350) and want 425+ whp on pump, then a 35R might work just fine, but you will need a clutch like what I am getting.

 

If you are going to run better gas or alky, and want more wtq, then you should really consider a 6MT swap, or just get a spec-B or STI.

 

Just trying to save you lots of headaches in the future.

nsfw and littlebluegt, so what clutch kit are you upgrading to now to handle the power you are making?

 

I started with the same clutch LittleBlueGT had, and it worked up to about 22-23psi (ATP 3076, 92 octane, no water/meth). Started slipping when I tried running 25psi.

 

Have one of these in a box now, waiting for my STI 6-speed transmission:

http://www.importimageracing.com/p/Exedy-Twin-Plate-race-kits-02-plus-WRX-STi.html

I started with the same clutch LittleBlueGT had, and it worked up to about 22-23psi (ATP 3076, 92 octane, no water/meth). Started slipping when I tried running 25psi.

 

Have one of these in a box now, waiting for my STI 6-speed transmission:

http://www.importimageracing.com/p/Exedy-Twin-Plate-race-kits-02-plus-WRX-STi.html

 

 

$1700 bucks!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You didn't think there were other streetable options for the 6MT that were cheaper?

There might be, but this clutch should put up with a lot of abuse, and I'm told it drives well.

There might be, but this clutch should put up with a lot of abuse, and I'm told it drives well.

 

I just hope you own your car long enough to get enough enjoyment out of it.

 

You better be doing a HFS-6 system in the future, or rotated.

I have had good luck with my bully full faced kevlar. I just did a 17000km cross continent tour pulling a 4000 lb trailer. 2000 km in it started to slip in Chicago traffic. Once in cape breton it did it again. Talked with patrick at bully and he suspected it was glazing and to downshift and pop the clutch to break off the glaze. At 15000km in Colorado I pulled off the intercooler to check things out.. No free play in the fork. Made it home but I now have a bad valve and possibly a broken ring land. Anyhow the problem was as pat thought. My act flywheel is about .018 thicker than the oem wrx. One which causes the pressure plate to be slightly depressesed. Very impressed and no chatter unlike my stock one...

The Bully set-up I had before has about the same capacity as your ACT set-up.

 

My new one should have 25% more holding power.

 

That being said, what sort of fuel or alky will you be running with the 35R?

 

At some point the 5MT is gonna be a big risk, and it will probably get to the point where you cannot run a full face disc, and then you will need a puck-clutch, which sucks for daily driving, etc....................

 

If you just want medium WTQ (like 350) and want 425+ whp on pump, then a 35R might work just fine, but you will need a clutch like what I am getting.

 

If you are going to run better gas or alky, and want more wtq, then you should really consider a 6MT swap, or just get a spec-B or STI.

 

Just trying to save you lots of headaches in the future.

 

I currently run 94 octane and will continue to do so, and run water-meth on top of it...I am not sure what kind of power to expect to be really honest...its all going to be up to the tuner...I will more than likely request that the torque number be downplayed so that I don't fry the clutch/tranny right away...

 

I am looking into pricing for a 6 speed swap...winter is almost here, so I am going to hold off until next spring/summer before I even consider pulling the trigger...

I have had good luck with my bully full faced kevlar. I just did a 17000km cross continent tour pulling a 4000 lb trailer. 2000 km in it started to slip in Chicago traffic. Once in cape breton it did it again. Talked with patrick at bully and he suspected it was glazing and to downshift and pop the clutch to break off the glaze. At 15000km in Colorado I pulled off the intercooler to check things out.. No free play in the fork. Made it home but I now have a bad valve and possibly a broken ring land. Anyhow the problem was as pat thought. My act flywheel is about .018 thicker than the oem wrx. One which causes the pressure plate to be slightly depressesed. Very impressed and no chatter unlike my stock one...

 

Wouldn't that make it rub almost all the time, hard to change gears etc.....

 

I just talked to Pat, and he says with Kevlar and chromoly (what the ACT fly's surface is) it is harder to get it to mate.

 

He says that many ACT flys are thicker then OEM.

 

Here is what I must do:

 

Measure the OEM (06+ WRX) fly thickness, from where it mates to the crank to the surface, then take off of the ACT fly whatever the distance is.

 

With an OEM fly their is no problem mating. But the above is good to know if one plans to use an ACT fly.

Southbend clutch is also another option. I have a full face Kevlar/Feramic setup that I know is rated to ~600 crank TQ. I am only at 350WTQ right now, but it drives great. Break-in was excessively long IMO, but I assume that means it will probably last forever also. No chatter of any kind now that it's broke in. It took a good 1500 miles before the first gear chatter completely subsided.

 

Just another option you don't hear mentioned much, buch you will see a few threads on NASIOC and they were the go to cluch in Audi's...

I just hope you own your car long enough to get enough enjoyment out of it.

 

You better be doing a HFS-6 system in the future, or rotated.

 

I had my last car 'til 140k miles, and it wasn't even modded. I'm thinking 200k for this one.

 

HFS-6 was on my mind a lot lately, but after the $ix $peed $wap I think I'm just going to tune conservatively and enjoy the car as-is for a while. Going to try not think about more mods, unless they're cheap mods.

Talked with patrick at bully and he suspected it was glazing and to downshift and pop the clutch to break off the glaze.

 

If anyone has tried this with a kevlar clutch I'm very interested in how it turned out. I might need a little extra life from my clutch just to get it to the shop for the swap.

If anyone has tried this with a kevlar clutch I'm very interested in how it turned out. I might need a little extra life from my clutch just to get it to the shop for the swap.

 

After about 5k hwy miles on my clutch it felt a little less grabby, so I beat on it for a couple of mins, clutch felt great then (in fact it still does).

 

Kinda like bedding in pads.