Blown EJ22 swapped, now starting issues.

This is my girlfriends car. Her parents thought she let it run out of oil, but after pulling the engine, I saw that a timing sprocket was bursting out the timing cover! You can see it in the pic below of the now "old engine".

 

I bought a "good" engine from G&R for $400. It was obviously steam cleaned. It was from an automatic. 94 I think. My subi here is a 93 5 speed. I bought a new timing belt and water pump kit, a new clutch, an extra flywheel (just resurfaced), and new slotted and cross drilled rotors with pads all around.

 

I did the timing belt and water pump, pics are shown. Please verify for me that I did it correctly. Seems pretty basic. I also removed the oil pan (they smashed it at the bolt) and reconditioned my old one (cleaned and painted), then put it on. I washed out the radiator, put on a good oil filter, new fuel hoses, and was able to leave the AC and PS connected and set to the side for the swap. Much nicer design than my 300zx engine for working on.

 

So much of this work went really great. Finishing up today though, starting became the issue. Most my day was spent chasing this. and I need to get it resolved and running. Smart phone google searches while working got me only so far. I learned how to read the codes, and that worked. Problem was the only codes were the 4 telling my injector clips weren't attached since I was clearing a possible flood condition. After those, there were never any more codes after anything else I did.

 

I ended up switching engine harnesses. I hated it! I saw a smarty pants on nasioc said there is no difference between auto and manual for engine harnesses. I can't say for sure about that, but I can say the pins at the two main connectors between the two harness were different by a few pins on each connector.

 

I tried starting fluid on the front of the MAF. I changed injectors, coil packs, wires, and spark plugs. I tried turning the engine over with many combinations of changes with hopeful intent. I visually verified spark on all 4 ignition points which showed normal spark.

 

After changing engine harnesses, there was no more check engine light. After starting a few more times, the light came on again. No codes though. I tried starting so much, I eventually ran out of my trucks battery :-) I am hopeful to work on this tomorrow with a fresh battery and find that it starts. I really need it to. I would hear it fire generally not long after disconnecting the injectors. This lead me to change rails thinking they were flooding the cylinders. After swapping all of them however, no change was noted.

 

So what is going on?? And how the H do you adjust the timing on these engines? On my Z I can just rotate the crank angle sensor. This engine has it fixed. Should I change out Cam and crank angle sensors? Should I change other sensors? No codes, and the car was running fine prior to the timing belt system blowing up. Are my fuel hoses set up correctly? I am pretty darn sure I do not have any vacuum lines disconnected or misplaced. I looked this over for a long time.

 

So not knowing these engines, I ask you Oh open audience... What am I missing??? PLEASE give me some good info. Thank you!

 

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First of all your timing marks are way off. The little triangle on the crank gear should be pointing towards the left cylinder head. There's a dot on the crank sensor trigger gear and that's the mark you align with the mark on the oil pump. Don't ask why there's the triangle I don't know. Realign the timing belt and it should fire right up. GL.

Cam gears look great. But use the alignment mark on the crank gear tooth, not the triangle like spooln said. Should run great after that. Good thing your engine is non interference, lol. Johnegg could chime in and tell you about some minor but important differences between auto and manual blocks.

 

Also, there isn't a way to adjust the timing on these engines. Align the marks properly and the ecu does all the rest.

the crank timing is off. the key way should be straight down. the correct timing mark is on one of the tabs on the rear of the crank sprocket.

 

but at least there is no damage since your engine is non-interference.

 

great pics by the way. how about posting one of the correct timing on the crank when you get it right.

 

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/gSKwgMXl.jpg

Hey Guys.

Thanks for the info.

I hope you find my video interesting.

I was really put off that this posted a week or more after I made the post! Pretty freakin lame! So although your advise is sound, it didn't help, and I found it out after a good deal of work. Would have been nice to just jump straight to fixing the timing, which I did from start to finish in 1.5 hours!

 

Our apologies for any delay. From the logs there was no delay in approving your OP within a few hours of your posting it. It's not clear where the thread went, but glad it worked out for you. Should you have any issues going forward, please reach out to any of the site staff for assistance, especially if it's time critical.

Although it didn't help you hopefully your thread helps someone else.