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Big Issue of my new HID from Xeon Factory, Need Help, Help.


kelviny

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Dear everyone

 

I need your help, I bought the 4200K low beam H7 HID Kit from Xeon Factory for my 2005 Legacy GT. I pay somebody set it up. Now I feel very disappointed for HID.

 

Now coming out two big issue, first, I lost the different between turn on DRL(Day time running light), and turn on the head light at night. There bright less become same after using HID. I ask the store which I pay for installation. They say if you using HID, they will become like this. But I don't trust, and I don't believe, can anyone tell why this issue, and how to fix.

 

Second Issue, The HID is terrible now, I feel the orginal headlight look much better than my new HID light, because the HID is so weak, Can you believe, I turn on my HID headlight, but I can't see the road, I can't see the light beam where they point to, very terrible, when I drive raining at night, I can't see the car in front of me. I believe that must be something wrong, either the HID itself, or the instatllation process. The store, insist, they are right. can anyone give me some idea, and how to fix.

 

Please, Plase Help, Thanks.

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Dear Mwiener2

 

I'm dummie of car mechanism, What do u mean the DRL's should be disabled with HID's?

Can let me know more detail, should I need to diable DRL first, if Yes, How can I do. or once the HID be setup, the HID will disable the DRL, need advice, thanks.

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Agreed - if you're at 4200K, and you can't see the road, the optics aren't aligned properly.

 

Also, the DRL should be disabled with your HID setup.

 

If this shop or your install person cannot do these two things, they're not worth whatever it is that you're paying them!

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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DRL is easy to disable.... if you don't disable them your HID's will flash like a strobe light repeatedly (or at least thats what mine did).

 

Sounds like your lights aren't alligned correctly... you could do it yourself (search around on here, I've seen the specs for where the lights are supposed to be aimed somewhere)

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you'll need a HID projector to have the best lighting output. You feel that the stock lighting is better, thats because it is. Cuz our stock projector is for halogen, if u use hid, the output and cutoff is different, u probably have lots of glare right now and its probably not as wide as before. Im going to retro-fit a s2k hid projector myself later on with hella 4300 d2s kit and do color mod to it. u can get s2k projectors on ebay around 250-300, hella d2s around 300-400, and if you want professionals to do the retrofit, it will be around 300-400 @ hidtech.com or somebody else u know.

 

 

This is a s2000 Hid projector with 4300 d2s kit and color mod retro-fitted on to a civic...

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA4NTM3MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA4NTM3MzZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA4NTM3NDZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

:dm:http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA4NTM3NTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

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nope.. if u use halogen projector, it wont look good. but if you dont care.. thats thats different. if u wanna look like that picture i just posted, u'll need HID projector. my last car, a honda accord. i have tyc halogen projector with catz 6000k hid. the light looks cool and whatever, but the lighting sucks. and its not wide, glare everywhere, and i cant see as clear. and the lighting is very uneven.
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Greeeeaaaat, another lighting "purist" :rolleyes: While I readily admit that it is supposedly incorrect to mount a D2S HID bulb in a halogen projector, you might want to look at some of the results yielded by HID installations in LGT projectors. The optics are close enough to give a wide and even beam pattern with a sharp cutoff. There is no noticable glare.

 

I for one have a pieced together HID setup from OEM parts and am more than happy with the results. Just because you experienced poor results in an entirely different car does not make that the case here. I will say that the pics from your Civic retrofit are outstanding. Nice work. Just be a little slower to judge the work of others.

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To the original poster, your problem is with your installation. As others have said, the DRL 's need to be disabled, and you have an obvious problem with the alignment of the HID bulbs. Correctly installed, there is a ton more light on the road with HID bulbs in our stock projectors.
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like mwiener2 said, DRL must be disabled before you install HID.

 

no it does not. i don't know why all you guys think this. its preference thing. if your worried about a kit's rebased bulbs blowing early due to more use then you may want to consider it. (you would want to turn the lamps completly on if your going to be using the e-brake quickly) my xenon setup works just like oem and i have my xenons as drls. been using the same philips bulbs for 2 yrs now. there is no reason to disable the drl unless you dont want to have the drls in the first place. i hate to run all my exterior lamps and dash lamps just to turn the headlamps on. i rather swap out my d2s bulbs years down the road then to even have to deal with replacing the rear plate lamps. hahahah

 

xenons don't work like halogen. you cannot vary the brightness of them by changing the power going to them. the ballasts convert the 11+ volts into high voltage and ignite the xenon gas in the bulbs. they are either on or off no in between.

 

as far as your lights not working as well after the kit its a result of the kit itself most likely

1. the bulbs themselves are bad quality or have a colored coating which ruins output.

2. the kit is designed poorly amd does not position the bulbs corectly to have them focus well.

 

i'm sorry you got a bad setup. i've hated kits since the day they came out. there is just too many variables and there are no standard which is why i choose the complete retro route every time.

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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color mod is when u put washers between the projector and the lamp.. the space between gives more lighting to reflect off the projector which makes the blue/purple line thicker. so that way, the duration of ur flicker last longer =) and boost junkie, ive heard about using d2s in our stock projector.. if that works, ill probably do that, cuz its cheaper.. im saving for emanage.. so can u show me where or if any thread of this DIY is done? and also results? thx
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heres my hella d2s projectors with hella gen 4 ballasts and philips 4100k (4300k) bulbs

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/IMG_3753.JPG

 

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/vxcl/legacy/IMG_3752.JPG

NOTICE THE FOGS LOOK YELLOW even in daylight compared to the xenons

 

heres the link to my retro

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14544&page=1&pp=10

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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no it does not. i don't know why all you guys think this

 

 

It's not the extended runtime and them going out early... it's how the DRLs operate that they need to be disabled. Headlights on is a nice clean 12v signal. DRL's is a dimmed 12v signal. The HID ballast is not designed to take a dimmed 12v signal. eventually the ballast will fail, which is much more expensive to replace than a lamp.

 

Some cars DRLS and headlights are the same brightness. The headlights are just always on. On those kind, it's ok to leave them attached.

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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It's not the extended runtime and them going out early... it's how the DRLs operate that they need to be disabled. Headlights on is a nice clean 12v signal. DRL's is a dimmed 12v signal. The HID ballast is not designed to take a dimmed 12v signal. eventually the ballast will fail, which is much more expensive to replace than a lamp.

 

Some cars DRLS and headlights are the same brightness. The headlights are just always on. On those kind, it's ok to leave them attached.

 

this is completey wrong. the legacy drls are controlled by the ground on the low beam circuit. it is what is varied not the +12. with drls on the ground reads about 3-4 volts with them off 0. the low beam + is a full 12+ volts!! drl or not!!! thats another reason why kits suck. they power right off oem wires. they should be powered directly off the battery in the first place. you risk frying the oem headlamp circuits if something was to go nutty with your ballasts. the only reason why your kits wont light up with drls connected is because they use the oem ground. you change that and see what happens, however they should still be triggered via a relay and powered directly from the battery. that is the ultimate "clean power"

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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VXCL, ur light looks good, but u retro-fitted bmw's projector.. does ANYONE know if there was a thread about D2S installed into our stock projector and results??

 

i'm bored at work. high resing tapes for super sweet 16 overnight. HAHAAH

 

yes its been done. sorry cant remember the post. i tried it out myself. comes close to a true xenon d2s projector and better then almost all kits becuase you can actually focus it specifically for the legacy oem projecter vs a one size fits all h7 kit. cut-off is still not as sharp, but its still one nice setup. no to mention parts are easy to come by, cheaper then a kit, and oem quality. i would search the exterior forum and just look for posts by me. i know i posted in the d2s setup retro thread.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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