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P2109 and Throttle body position sensor codes


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Alright guys/gals....

 

I really need some feedback. I've been killing myself trying to find a solution this issue, and I've not only been stalking every post I can find on the web, but I've also had to have my car towed once, had it at 2 different dealerships and Have already spent hundreds of dollars throughout this process in trying to isolate the issue.

 

I know it's happening to a lot of peoples legacy's and I really could use some help figuring out what the next step should be.

 

The car does the typical "Check engine light, accompanied by the blinking cruise indicator" and then I have no throttle response, and motor dumps into limp mode and stutters along. Every single thread that exists so far that I've found, has a bunch of comments and speculation but no one has updated with a final resolution on any of them??????

 

Thoughts? Point me in the right direction PLEASSSSSE

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I looked under the dash bulkhead last night to see what it looks like where the Pedal Sensor goes in....

 

This weekend when I get some time, I'm going to try to reseat that thing and see what comes of it.

 

Thank god for the motorcycle and living in AZ! Otherwise this nonsense REALLY would have screwed me up big time with not having a working car for more then 3 miles! smh

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I'll admit I probably know next to nothing compared to frank, but with that said it couldn't hurt looking into the relay, that's the first thing the FSM says to check for p2109. The full diagnostic walkthrough is like 30 steps long so this is just the first page. I would hope the dealership would've looked into the relay though.

1490538605_p21012109.thumb.jpg.4329946d20b05311d698134cbada3b75.jpg

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i think the p2109 code is a side affect of the 2138 code. as the engine speed is above the target idle speed.

 

that or you have a giant vacuum leak

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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This is so ridiculous chasing this issue around.

 

So the other day, I popped the APP sensor off, blew out the area, cleaned the contacts a bit (just air) and reseated... Issue didn't change :rolleyes: (of course I'm not that lucky ha)

 

Also tried to drive it in cruise control to try to rule out the APP sensor but ran out of room but right as I did run out of room, I just did a quick little throttle blip no more then 1/2 - 3/4 throttle and almost the exact moment I did and came out of the throttle the codes threw and dumped into limp mode.

 

So Still trying to decide what I should do next... Really thinking about just throwing a dart at the wall and trying to just replace the APP sensor to see if I get lucky and it fixes the issue. It's the next cheapest thing to try before it gets tricky

 

So frustrating :spin:

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Damn! All I could get into an email sent directly to SOA!

 

I am following up with them tomorrow.... Because I feel I have an obligation to if for no other reason!

 

"I'm reaching out to SOA with a matter that I am experiencing that I find myself extremely aggravated and disappointed.

 

Not only in the fact that I have had my vehicle dropped off to a subaru dealer, incurred towing fee's and diagnostic fee's but yet again a very frustrating problem my vehicle is having currently went un-diagnosed. But even more frustrating after combing through ENDLESS Web forums and posting by fellow subaru owners the like, who are having the EXACT PROBLEM and yet it's something that subaru hasn't owned up to and taken some sort of responsibility in making right for it's long time loyal customers!

 

There is a sensor/circuit issue happening in thousands of peoples subarus across the country that is throwing CEL codes for Throttle positioning sensors and Accelerator pedal positioning sensors. Not only is this problem nearly maddening in the fact that it completely prevents one from being able to drive there vehicle since once the P2109 and P2138 codes are thrown the car completely removes throttle response from the driver and in some of the most precarious situations whether it's driving in heavy traffic merging onto a highway etc. All instances that can cause great danger or harm to drivers losing control of there vehicles acceleration.

 

That said, I have spent hundreds of dollars already in an effort to just diagnose this problem and like so many others across the country (Which can be found instantly by a simple google search) I continue to be unsuccessf"

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I didn't think the sensor was sold by itself, unless you take the sensor off a used pedal assembly. Even though there are no guarantees that it would fix the problem, I would try replacing with a new gas pedal assembly anyways. Personally I wouldn't buy used because of the risk that this could happen again down the road much sooner than with a new assembly.
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Call the parts guys at Fredbeans Subaru, a Vendor on here. Ryan or the guys can help out with the part number.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Call the parts guys at Fredbeans Subaru, a Vendor on here. Ryan or the guys can help out with the part number.

 

Good deal, appreciate the tip man. I think I've actually talked with him/them before. Yea would really like to rule out the pedal assembly without blowing into the budget to badly. I need to start working my way through this issue. Riding the bike to work everyday the last month has been fun, but I'd like to have my own set of wheels to jump in if need be again.

 

Will update as I go... Currently working on getting the driver window of my wifes new car (hyundai genesis coupe) replaced, since some JERKOFF punks where running around the neighborhood last night popping peoples windows out! I swear "it rains... it pours" :spin:

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Alright Car has since been brought back to a local Subaru dealer down here in Scottsdale, AZ to have a tech work on this issue for me who I believe to be a relatively competent technician based off the feedback I got from him prior to bringing the car in. The dealer was also probably one of the best dealer experiences I've had SO FAR.....

 

Car is back in my possession and I'm not going to report any certain feedback as of yet, pertaining to this issue until I get AT LEAST a week of consistent driving from the suby issue free, I will then report back with my own personal update!

 

::CrossingFingers::

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P.S. This latest Dealer visit reminded me of the joys of having a long term vehicle and the maint that needs to be done ha.... They worked up a nice little "Report card" I'm calling it ha, of how certain key stuff is looking and some suggestions.
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  • 1 year later...

It seems I've cleared up my p2138 pedal sensor code by cleaning the ground strapping points on the engine block and manifold. This certainly resolved the rear O2 sensor code p0139. Now the ECM is seeing the correct swings in rear O2 output.

 

There are 3 big ground lugs on manifold with several ECM and sensors being grounded there. Clean each lug both sides with sandpaper and shine up the aluminum on that manifold spot, little bit of dielectric grease, put back together torque well but not crazy. Same treatment where battery neg goes to engine block near starter motor, and same again where neg goes to chassis behind the fuse block under hood.

 

P0139 gone. Would normally reappear each drive cycle.

 

P2138 hasn't reappeared. Was also becoming daily.

 

No codes in memory or permanent after days of drive cycles.

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