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$4500.00 switch. Doesn't look like much.


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The switch itself is not that much, but that's what it cost me to get this figured out.

 

You may recall my threads about my year long nightmare with my 05 LGT issues. Turns out no matter how small and insignificant the part may seem, there is always somehow it is connected. This little part on the very end of the transmission CAN and WILL shut down your entire automobile. It is the neutral position switch. Thanks to EricS on another forum for his suggestion, my car runs better than it has since I built it. It has been running trouble free for 3 weeks now. Actually runs and idles better than than it ever did. I got the car with a blown engine initially, so I never ran it before the build. When NF Performance tuned it, he always tried to work around some interference issues. Seems like we may have eliminated that too.

Sorry about the long post.

Terry

 

http://i433.photobucket.com/albums/qq54/wurkenman/LGT/20140715_190607_zpsuyca3srw.jpg

If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right.
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For those that don't know, there is a washer that goes on that switch. The washer can cause CC to drop out going down hills. I had to grind down my washer two times in the early years. It's been fine since.

 

I haven't heard anyone complain about that issue in a very long time.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Mine caused real high idle spikes at times. Like sitting in traffic it would fluctuate like I was just hitting the accelerator pedal repeatedly. Then it went into the spell where it just would start and die and the security light would stay on. Easy replacement. It's on the very end of the trans on the driver side. 10 minute job.
If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right.
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my cruise control drops out more and more... how did this switch cause the car to not start?

 

The car would always start, but would immediately die.

 

This was copied from another thread on my local forum. It's about a good of an explanation as I can see.

 

 

I have ran into neutral gate switches that cause idle speed control code (P1507) and cause injector cut because the PCM (engine computer) doesn't "see" the transmission in gear on closed throttle deceleration.

If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right.
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Smooth and consistent all the way. Sometimes I have heard you might need to sand down the crush washer. I don't know why, but I've heard they cause problems.
If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right.
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  • 4 weeks later...
It's an electrical problem, not a mechanical issue. Not using the LGT electrical. I'm gonna swap heads and run a 2.5 hybrid in the WRX.
If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right.
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it does not make any sense that a neutral switch in a 5mt would cause the engine not to run. all it does is disable cruise control. if it was bad, depending on how it fails it would either not allow cruise or it would rev the engine when the shifter was pulled out of gear while in cruise.

 

I couldn't agree more.

 

I haven't studied the 5mt diagrams or logic but the worst I can see it doing is disabling cruise, slight change in idle and maybe MAYBE preventing the starter from engaging.

10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned.

 

SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC.

Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP

1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission.

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