Power steering o-ring fix

i have the same symptoms, i will order the ring Monday.

I believe I am having the O ring issue. Have the same issues as the very first post. This thread has been very informative.

WE need more O rings in this community...

Sounds like my problem. I'll get the o-ring and replace it. Only happens when it is cold and upon first start. So far my Legacy GT has been outstanding reliable car at ~140K miles.

Thank you yokotaalum, yo saved me from buying a new power steering pump for $400.00 buy posting this up. did it yesterday, the ring ($2.00) is easy to do if you put it in the pump first. also changed the fluid in the pump and installed new p/s - a/c belt and alternator belt. change the bolt that holds the alternator for a longer one because i had striped it a cuple of months ago. i Noticed that before my voltage would drop down to 13.9 idle but now its 14.2 idle to 14.5 moving.

Did mine in the summer, was getting squeals when it was cold out. Fixed the problem.

My car started having the same issues the other day. I already had an oil change scheduled so I had them check out the power steering pump. I was told the pump was bad and quoted $600 to replace it. Said no, came home and found this thread, went back to the dealership and bought the o-ring for $1.98, problem solved. Thanks again legacygt.com!

Love how the dealers or any random mechanic will tell you the steering pump is bad.

I replaced my power steering pump with a used one and I even replaced the o-ring with an even thicker and more snug ring and I'm still having harder steering in cold weather

Go buy the new one from Subaru for 2 bucks. Thicker one may have issues seating still, like folding a little while you press the 90 adapter back in the pump.

Push the o-ring down into the bowl, then push the flange down into the pump. Putting it on the flange and pushing it in seems to not work as well.

Need to make a stop at the local dealership for one of these o-rings I've been reading about.

Thanks to the OP, was able to fix wifes Legacy GT for $3.00. Thanks!!!

My pump just started whining on the real cold days, would disappear after warming up. Based on what I read here it was the o-ring. Was checking it one cold morning, gave the inlet hose a tug and noise disappeared! Yee hah! Has not come back in a week, will eventually change the o-ring when I get a chance.

Just grabbed an '06 Outback Wagon, steering pump was horrible noisy, wheel would jerk when hitting bumps, etc. Swapped the o-ring, bled the air, problem solved! Thanks to everyone who posted here, you all saved me lotsa time and $.

Got the same symptoms on my OB 3.0R. Growling when I turn the steering, disappears when it warms up. Going to try this fix today. I hope this works on the H6 engine!

 

Will keep you posted.

So I realized that the aluminum inlet hose connector is cracked at the bolt. I took this image from a different thread but this is exactly what happened on my 09' 3.0R.

 

http://s499.photobucket.com/user/BluesBus00/media/photo-18_zpsbe1e5914.jpg.html

 

Need to buy a new inlet connector but can't find the difference between these parts... Maybe i could use the 2.5i's double o-ring inlet?

 

WHATS THE DIFFERENCE?

 

SUBARU Part Numbers:

 

34431AE030

---or---

34431FG000

Looking at this picture, which is for a 2009 3.0R Limited P/S Pump, it would appear that the elbow is a separate item. Can't find the P/N on it, but your local dealer or even Fred Beans Parts may know what it is.

 

http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495134803.png

http://parts.annapolissubaru.com/a/Subaru_2008_Legacy30L-5AT-4WD30R-LIMITED-SEDAN/_54100_6027974/OIL-PUMP-PUMP/B13-348-03.html

 

I need the part as quickly as possible. No dealership within 200 miles of my location has it in stock. I would need to order it either online or through the dealership. What would be the fastest and which would be the correct part number?

 

Thanks!

If you call the dealership early enough on Monday, ideally before 11am, chances are they can order the exact part for you and have it for you the next day. That's assuming the local warehouse has the part in stock, and I think they should have that elbow in stock. At least that has been my experience getting parts. You can call some dealers into the early afternoon and they can still get the parts next day, but I've found the cut off time varies dealer by dealer.

When I called around to a few dealerships, most of them couldn't even figure out how to find that specific part number.... But thanks! I'll call Monday morning.

 

There are two part numbers. Do you think the new one is the -FG000 part number as it excludes the older years in the description? I just don't want to end up with a plastic part as opposed to the stock aluminum. Also, I know there are some models that have a double o-ring inlet connector... does anyone think these pump inlets are hot-swappable between the different models?

-FG000 P/N is for the O-ring. You need the P/N for the connector elbow, since that's what's broken on yours.

 

I was trying to find bushings for the rear Spec B Arms and nothing showed them separately (similar to our pump diagrams above). Called Fred Beans and they not only knew the P/N is, but shipped it to me too. They may likely know what that P/N is too.

Just got back from the dealership and part number 34431FG000 is the black plastic piece for the 2.5. I just ordered part number 34431AE030 which is the correct part: the aluminum inlet elbow for the 08-09 3.0R.

Added this info to the walk-through.

*bump* My steering had the exact symptoms everyone described here. I noticed the pump was wet where the hose was and when I popped open the reservoir I could see bubbles/foam inside. I ordered two (1 extra) of 34439FG000 as the OP suggested and today, I tackled the job.

 

It is a VERY straightforward procedure. Remove engine cover. Remove engine cover mounting bracket from front (10mm and 12mm bolt). Remove inlet bolt (10mm) and immediately lift hose up to stop fluid from gushing out. Remove washer. Replace washer. Put inlet back in and torque down.

 

Some of you guys mentioned putting the washer inside of the pump and then shoving the inlet in afterwards. I gave that a go but decided to just put the washer on the inlet directly and reinstall. I was afraid at first that this wasn't the problem with mine because when I removed the washer, it didn't seem shriveled up or dry or cracked or anything, but everything buttoned back up just fine and voila! No more leaking. Steering isn't squealing anymore and the reservoir isn't bubbling/foaming. Topped it back off a bit and all is well!

 

Thanks OP and everyone else.

Edited February 8, 2015 by iNVAR