Some oil change Q's

So, I wouldn't be starting a topic for something that should be so common knowledge, but the bout of bad luck I've had with this car lately has made me more than a little over-cautious. I spent a few hours reading through all of the "oil topics", and if the questions I have were addressed then I didn't see it. So, here we are. Anyway:

 

The saga of my nightmare began in http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/big-cloud-s-gray-smoke-223097.html From there the car went to Wrenchrite, where the oil was changed several times, the heads were sent to a machinist, injectors were cleaned, bunch of other engine front preventative stuff was done, and it was running mint. For about 100 miles, when the CEL came on pulling into the emissions station, and it promptly started running like crap again. Towed it back to Wrenchrite, where they found a bad... um. Oil activated solenoid thing for the variable valve timing. Replaced both to be safe, changed the oil again (since it still had quite a bit of glitter in it) and ran it.

 

Because I'm totally paranoid freak right now (hey, it's been a $5500 month) I only drove it about 150 miles and dumped the oil again today. I believe that's four oil changes now in as many weeks, which is since the turbo went. There wasn't really anything reflective in the oil I drained this morning when I put a fluorescent light on it, but there was still a light but very visible cloud of sediment in what I poured out of the used (150 mile old) filter. That being the case, how many miles would you folks recommend I go before changing the oil again? At this point I'm thinking another 150-200, wash/rinse/repeat until I'm not seeing crap in the old oil anymore.

 

Regardless, today was the first time I've changed the oil in this car myself. I'd rather not be bothered, but I can do it myself with Rotella T6 and a NAPA Gold filter for well under $30, and it costs $70+ to have anyone else around here do it with synthetic. Since I'm going to be doing it a lot, I'm going to be doing it myself. While I think I pulled it off, I still have some questions about doing this regularly. Having the mechanical ability doesn't mean I have the knowledge.

Most importantly, does anyone know the torque spec for the drain plug? I don't want it too loose, and I definitely don't want it too tight. I think I may have over-tightened it this time, definitely going to be buying a handful of new crush washers for future changes.

Also, Channellocks got the old filter off no sweat, but it's a less than ideal way to put the new one on. So I didn't. Not having a filter wrench small enough for the silly little filter this car takes (the one on my ZX10R is bigger! WFT?) I just tightened it as much as I could by hand. I have a pretty strong grip, and I'm not especially worried, but there's no way I could have gotten the old one off by hand so I have to ask. I know my motorcycle filter is actually supposed to be screwed in hand tight, because it actually tightens up itself after. For future reference, should I get a filter wrench that fits this filter? Anybody got a torque spec for the filter? And really, anything else relevant that I don't know I needed to know before tackling something this rudimentary myself would be appreciated.

If I tighten it as hand-tight as I can, I always end up using channel locks or screwdriver to get the filter out later. I think hand-tight is plenty

Awesome, thanks!

No prob. I can't imagine that rubber gasket on the filter needs lots of crushing. Perhaps an oil pressure issue would show up if it wasn't tight enough?

I don't even have a filter wrench. I have always tightened down my oil filters by hand.

Screwdriver to remove, and hand tighten the filter

 

 

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Nice.

 

Wait... screwdriver?

 

0_0

I thought every oil filter say's on it, tighten 3/4 turn after seal contacts.

 

I use Fram or Purlator gold with the grip surface on them.

 

You can buy a number of different oil filter wrenches from different stores.

 

Lot's & More had this wrench with three arms that grab the filter as you turn it on the off direction.

 

The drain plug goes in tight and then just a little bit more, seat the crush washer and maybe 1/8 of a turn more.

 

You cam also tighten it a little nudge more if it drips after a few days.

Screwdriver method is as high tech as it gets. Hammer a flat head into the filter and pull the screwdriver. Causes the filter to turn and sometimes will jar it loose. Obviously you would let the oil drain out first when you punch a hole in it.

Yeah, I found out today just how much is waiting to come out above the filter even after you've already drained the pan...

So, we're a no go on torque spec for the drain bolt then?

The only thing I torqued on my car is lug nuts and the crank pulley, flywheel and clutch too. I'll even say I may have tighten the clutch bolts more then the book say's, it just didn't feel like enough.

 

But I have been working on cars for 40 + years.

 

If your not sure yes buy a good torque wrench and read the manual.

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

I hand tight the filter on and use a stupid rubber braclet for grip to get them off

The only thing I torqued on my car is lug nuts and the crank pulley, flywheel and clutch too. I'll even say I may have tighten the clutch bolts more then the book say's, it just didn't feel like enough.

 

Lol, same here. I've only ever bothered to take a torque wrench to rotating parts, and even then, I'm known to exceed the specs a bit...

Like the others, I've never used a torque wrench on a drain plug, but I do always replace the crush washer every time. As far as the oil filter, I screw it on until it's snug with moderate pressure, to be honest I probably over tighten the filter every time. I've tried hand tight and 3/4 turn, a full turn, etc, and it just never feels like enough even though I'm sure it would be fine.

 

By the book, it looks like the drain plug should be tightened down 32.5 ft-lbs.

The 2005 owners manual referenced the old subaru oil filters, so I've attached a picture from the 2009 owners manual which references the correct blue subaru filter. I wasn't able to find an actual torque spec for the oil filter.

I would be interested to see the wrench that can measure the torque of an oil filter... Unless a 60mm socket or something fits and I've never checked?

 

I agree with apexi it never seems tight enough because it easily has more turns left after the rubber washer is crushed.

Hand tightening is fine. if too tough to remove, a 65mm filter 'socket' fits well; Performance Tool makes one sold at Advance Auto.

 

And to keep the oil mess to a minimum, use a plastic 'Solo' over the filter to remove it and catch the majority of the oil.

Thank you very much! I'm satisfied with hand tightening the filter at this point I think, but the drain plug I don't trust myself with. I do have a decent torque wrench in each drive size, and while I don't use them on much, I have historically found that drain plugs for some reason I have... issues with.

 

So how normal is a light gray cloud of not-especially-shiny sediment floating around on 150 mile oil? By a light gray cloud I mean I really had to look hard to see it, and it was in the couple shot glasses worth that I poured out of the old filter. Just wondering how soon I should drain it again.

Oh, that was to apexi, I didn't see the posts on this page. Anyway, I was referring to using a filter socket to torque the filter. I have one for my motorcycle filters that works rather well, but I didn't have it with me at the shop today when I did the car. I'm pretty sure it's about the same size, but not positive. Regardless, I know I can get one that will fit the car, and probably will just for getting it off.

Look up Fumoto oil drain valve, I have 3 of them. They work great.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=fumoto+valve&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us%3AIE-ContextMenu&oe=&safe=active&oq=fumoto&gs_l=heirloom-serp.1.0.0l10.3666.10016.0.13916.92.19.0.0.0.6.375.2278.0j6j4j1.11.0....0...1ac.1.34.heirloom-serp..88.4.873.6VusQYwl6uU

 

 

You can also send a oil sample off to Blackstone Labs too.

I have looked into those for my Cummins, because I'm changing the oil every 3-4 weeks. Still haven't bit the bullet and done it though... they aren't cheap.

My main concern about one on the LGT is not getting all the crap out of the pan. Seems to me that the threads would extend up into the pan, creating a wall that the dregs can't get over. Or am I just thinking logically to the wrong conclusion?

Jack up the right front corner of the car to drain the oil.

 

 

If you buy 2 fumoto valves you get $5.00 off. $23.00 is cheap. Sorry.

 

Over thinking it. It's just oil. Warm the engine up and change it.

 

I'm not mad, just saying...

 

Hey, whats your DD like, mine is 33miles one way mostly highway. 3 miles to exit 68 on RT84 then to Windsor Locks across from the airport. If yours is short drives, that's not good for these cars.

$23?! When I priced them they were more like $75. Maybe the one for my truck is just more, but I don't see why it would be.

 

It's the wife's car. I'd say she does about 30 miles round trip, none of it highway but most of it around 45mph. She does Olympic weightlifting, and her trainer lives like, an hour and a half to two hours away down I95 in Wilton. She makes that hike about once a week. Well, not lately, but whenever things get back to normal.

I figured out the discrepancy. It wasn't the Fumoto valve I was looking at, it was the Femco: http://www.femcodraintechnology.com/products/quick-drain/?gclid=CLS-wu-3p74CFXIOOgodtTAA6A

$23?! When I priced them they were more like $75. Maybe the one for my truck is just more, but I don't see why it would be.

 

It's the wife's car. I'd say she does about 30 miles round trip, none of it highway but most of it around 45mph. She does Olympic weightlifting, and her trainer lives like, an hour and a half to two hours away down I95 in Wilton. She makes that hike about once a week. Well, not lately, but whenever things get back to normal.

 

Good to hear the car gets driven, that's gets the oil hot enough to dry the condinsation out of it.