What did you do to your 5th gen today?? -V4

thanks guys.. sweet options... mevotek is actually 2 blocks from where I work, I have a deal with them, they buy from me at cost plus 10% .. i get cost price plus 10% with them. now im thinking of the rears and wondering how much ajustment i need.. i think im sitting at max oem specs 1.9deg i think... argh ENABLERS....

Actually here's another option that I ironically just learned of right now from a RallySportDirect "hand picked for you based on your ride" email: SuperPro. Very similar design and pricepoint to both the SPCs and Whiteline, but in SuperPro's dark blue as well.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/control-arms/spp-trc0011-super-pro-rear-lower-control-arm-kit

Installed my front CKE SSP 75D Deep Purple Bushings tonight (did the rears last week). Massive improvement, the car feels so excellent on turn in now. These are molded from OEM bushings, so they fit same as OEM, just a harder durometer. I can honestly say that I felt a bigger improvement in the front from switching to these bushings than I did switching from the 24mm sway bar to the 26mm sway bar. Really excellent, cheap, easy to install upgrade for stock or upgraded sway bars. Definitely recommend them.

I swapped out my snow tires on stock wheels to my summer wheels on aftermarket rims last night. I checked the wheel bearing while changing the snow tires. The howling noise I have been hearing went away, so it must be the snow tire tread. The car feels noticeably quicker now that I removed the factory concrete wheels.

Last year, I curbed one of my Enkei rims. This 1st time I curbed a rim in almost 20 years. I was going to buy new rims to replaced the curbed one, but with my current driving trend I am going to need new tires next summer. I will just replace the rim. I will deal with the curbed wheel this year, it actually doesn't look too bad, but curb rims bother me.

Humble reminded me that I forgot to install CKE bushings with my snow tires off, as well. I'm just gonna have to pile all these parts together and make a day out of it. In due time.

At the dealership now, getting the egr gasket replaced and the serpentine tensioner pulley. Given how long its been taking in gonna guess they had them in stock. Both covered under warranty actually. I told them to replace the belt while it's off.

I changed the rear pads and rotors tonight.

I had to hammer the pads out of the mounting bracket, they were seized in pretty good. I also had to file a bunch of build up out of the bracket to get the new pads to fit tightly, but move freely.

The brake pedal feels better now, I don't think there was a ton of breaking happening back there the way it was.

Now on to figure out the center diff issue. I'm going to search to see if there's an upgraded option for the WRX or something that I can use in the LGT...?

I'm probably going to get a J pipe at that time too because I'll have the pipe off anyway and might as well upgrade.

I put a new plastic skid plate on my GT last night. The one on the car was busted in half and had the turbo exposed, so I figured I should at least get that covered up for now. I picked up a new plastic cover for $45 shipped and it fit nicely.

https://www.carid.com/2010-subaru-legacy-chassis-frames-body/replace-engine-cover-83727922.html

I will look into the aluminum skid plate if I get that far in the mods to warrant it.

Still gotta figure the center diff too...

I will look into the aluminum skid plate if I get that far in the mods to warrant it.

I'd say since you have a low mount turbo, it warrants an aluminum skidplate from primitive racing

Added front lip today ... not as easy as I thought it would be

Changed:

• Timing belt (Aisin TKF-006 kit)
  
• All the idlers
  
• Water pump
  
• Thermostat
  
• Upper and lower radiator hoses
  

I'm beat; my back will be hurting tomorrow, LOL!

It was kind of a PITA to put the new timing belt on; the slack on the lower side was simply not enough. I backed out the cog idler almost completely and pulled it toward the front of the car and then between that having some extra play and the water pump I was able to get it on. Then I put the lower left idler on (that was easy).

Then I realized that when I put the new water pump on, I did not put a little angled rubber gasket on the passenger side. Sigh. So I had to redo it.

Watch for little parts! Do as I say, not as I do!

If you're not going with the BFH removal method, rent one of these bad boys from your auto parts store of choice. Worked really well when I changed all the studs on my Baja, although conveniently enough, the only stud it kept slipping off of was the one that was broken. I think O'Reilly called it a GM tie rod separator or something like that, but the bottom of this one hooks onto the back of the hub flange pretty well.

http://i1.adis.ws/i/washford/695494?w=637&h=403

If you're not going with the BFH removal method, rent one of these bad boys from your auto parts store of choice. Worked really well when I changed all the studs on my Baja, although conveniently enough, the only stud it kept slipping off of was the one that was broken. I think O'Reilly called it a GM tie rod separator or something like that, but the bottom of this one hooks onto the back of the hub flange pretty well.

 

http://i1.adis.ws/i/washford/695494?w=637&h=403

Thanks for the advice. I went with the BFH.. lol. 3 or 4 whacks and the broken stud was out. Slipped in the new one, put a few washers and an oversized nut on it then one of the lug nuts and pulled it into the Hub till it was seated. Actually ended up changing a 2nd stud as well as the tip of the stud broke off and was stuck in the nut. Good thing I planned ahead and bought a couple extra. Legit took me about 10 minutes to do. Took me longer to get all the tools I needed, jack the car up, etc.

Also, next oil change it's getting a Fumoto valve.

Just got mine in the mail today. Probably going to install this weekend or the next.

Be well aware- in my experience, the drain plug knows it's being replaced, and will likely try to jump out of your hand and do a cannonball into the drain pan so as to splash your face with hot oil. Spiteful little bugger...

The oil filter is the one that got me. Good thing I let the engine cool down before unscrewing it. Those filters need their own drain valve as well.

Craftsman makes a good one. Red and clear hexagonal grip, flat pointed tip, hammer actuated. Also works well if the dealership decides they really want to crank the filter on tight, just apply it to the side.

Move over, Leatherman, the most versatile multitool is a flat-blade Craftsman screwdriver with a lifetime warranty.

The oil filter is the one that got me. Good thing I let the engine cool down before unscrewing it. Those filters need their own drain valve as well.

I've got a picture somewhere of one of the old white Wix filters with oil running down and dripping off, looks like a hot fudge sundae.

The Solo cup method works really well, but usually I either don't have any, or don't think about it until I'm under the car, so I don't do it that often.

I changed my 2 of spark plugs yesterday after work (and 2 of them Monday). The prior owner put in 1 step colder plugs.

While I was working on the driver side plugs, I noticed that my car already has a Perrin TB to intercooler coupler. Oops I have brand new in the box Black Perrin TB-IC coupler if anyone needs one. I guess I should looked at earlier; I didn't realize our IC outlet were so offset.

On Saturday I changed my fuel pump to a DW200. When I pulled out the fuel pump, it had a DW65C pump.