Timing Belt Damage

New here so first of all hello to all.

 

I just bought a 00 Outback for my girlfriend. It has 58,000 miles and really clean but was involved in a front end accident. I'm in the autobody bussiness so this is how I buy my cars.

 

So, the engine cranks but doesn't run. I bought it at salvage auction and took a chance. I have discovered that the cooling fans went back into the plastic covers and took the timing belt off. I have read conflicting information as to if the valves will be bent or not. I did several searches here but can't find a situation reported where a belt actually failed and damaged the engine.

 

Any advise on how to proceed is greatly appreaciated. I can do the work myself. I'm too far into it to part it out now. This wasn't that bad of a hit with no airbags deployed or frame damage. I never would have expected major engine damage from a relatively minor accident.

To start check in forum for vacation pix (sic) this will give you some service manual info.

 

You will have to take the t belt cover off first, which means you'll have to remove the accessory belts, etc and crank pulley.

 

If belt is still attached, do not remove!. Use the attached pdf and move cranks to alignment marks. Mark the belt in the three places , and put a pin through the belt tensioner to keep it in place (you may have to pry it up so the holes align).

 

If still there, it may have jumped teeth. If not you may have more issues, since the engine continued to run for a bit before cutting off.

 

First things first. Do this and report back.

 

If unable to get fsm , pm me with your email so I can send it. Some files are too large to attach

here.

 

O.

MSA5T0701A143010 Engine Trouble in General.pdf

Thanks for the reply. I may be able to get to it this weekend. From what I can see through the hole in the cover, the belt is off.

 

I checked with the dealer yesterday and the service manager said put a belt on and see what happens. He also said I have a 50/50 chance of valve damage or not. I did a lot of searching and can't reach a definitive answer as to wether my valves will be bent or not. Gates lists it as an interference while another list says the SOHC engines are non. At least it would seem there is a chance I may luck out.

 

In any case, the cost of a low mile used engine is out of the question. I'll have to fix what I have. I bought the car because of the low miles so don't want to swap in something with a bunch of miles on it.

 

I will report my findings.

All 2.5L engines are interference. As your dealer says it is a 50/50 chance re valves. Won't know until after a new belt is installed and car started. Wish you good fortune.

 

O.

Yup these are interference engines so once you get the belt installed you will know if a rebuild is needed if so you can get this done for relatively cheap being in the business you probably know engine guys. This

Fingers crossed! That's really low mileage for an '00, damaged or not!

Here's what I found under the busted cover. Really easy to work on with the rads and damaged suport out of the way. Even without that it seems like a simple car to work on.

 

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd204/underdog72b/Sube002.jpg

 

 

I'm a bit confused on the timing marks. The Cam pulleys have indents as well as large arrows but not in the same place. The crank also has a indent on the gear and also the toothed piece in behind. I ordered a Haynes manual but it didn't get here yet. Anyplace on the internet with good instructions and photos?

 

Everything looks brand new except one idler. The belt got behind it and messed up the seal causeing it to be a bit stiff. I'm going to see if NAPA stocks one.

 

I'm really anxious to see if it runs. And thanks for all the good luck wishes.

Oh well...

 

I figured it out. Indents all straight up (12 o clock) and the marks on the belt lined up with the indents...right? I could tell the way it was cranking it didn't have even compression. It did start but was just sputtering on one or two cylinders.

 

Some times you get the bear and sometimes.........

I suppose this experiance will help dispell any rumors that this is not an interference engine.

 

I'll have to see it through. Paid $1800 for the car so can't just junk it. Luckily I'm handy with wrenches too and not just bodywork.

 

 

BTW, the Gates belt has the timing marks too. They claim they make most of the belts for the OE. I got it wholesale for $43. And, all you need for the tensioner is a C-clamp and a small drill bit or allen key. Worked like a charm.

Glad you figured it out.

Now to see if a valve is bent and therefore not allowing compression.

Need to find which valves are not operating properly.

Before committing, turn one revolution, to make sure timing is not off by 180 deg.

A head job is more involved but not unusually hard. Especially to one who seems to have experience such as yourself.

Here is link to some FSM. Site is Russian, but texts are English.

http://www.subaru-car.ru/left/doc/

Make sure you use the HSO4 parts for this engine. You'll also have the 2.0 L Turbo, The EZ30R and 2.5L Turbo for future reference.

The 2.5L NA engines from 2000 -2005 are basically the same.

Have fun.

 

O.

How do I tell if it is 180deg out?

 

Sure would hate to pull this apart if it is not needed.

 

Not finding any english in that link.

 

Thanks.

Hard to tell you. was looking for previous links to positions of valves when marks are properly aligned, but of course I can't find now.

Go to forum Ultimate SubaruMessageBoard. There are at least 3 members who work on engines daily. They can help more.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/

another manual link.

On Russian site you have to actually click on a section to get to Eng.

You can call a local dealer's service dept, they may give you the info.

 

O.

Thanks. Found the factory info here.

 

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/

 

I have the engine R&RI procedure, timing belt and cylinder head pages all printed.

 

Going to double check everything today and do a compression test before I start yanking it out.

 

 

edit: just noticed we both posted the same link. That is a great manual.

Got the lump pulled out today and & took the heads off. Every intake valve on the left bank is bent pretty good. Enough for about an 1/8 gap between the seat on the side towards center. The right side doesn't appear to have any damage at all. The pistons look fine. I can't really see where the valves hit them but obviously they did.

Got it running today. Sounds great and no engine light. Only ran it for a minute since it is stll minus a radiator. Now on to the body damage which is more my forte. Thanks for the help & sugestions.

Glad to hear.

That's why we are here, to help each other.

 

O.

Keep the pics coming of your body repairs if you can! We're all interested I'm sure.