Clearing up all the oil info....

An acquaintance (and a more respected member of LGT forum than I will ever be) has used M1 5-30 since day one in his 05 LGT, and no regrets. So that is what I am leaning toward, though I've been mixing in 1+ quart of M1 0-40 for the heckuvit. So maybe I'm running 3.75W32.5, of a semi-affordable P4 lubricant.

 

Anyway, I'm nuts, and I think this is all overkill for any daily driver who changes oil every 4K miles or so. Maybe you racerheads or arctic cats need more.

 

For now, blue Subaru filters, though I'm pissed I missed the end of an ebay auction for 3 Tokyo Roki filters that went for under $18 total. Glad WIX has stepped up with their 57712. May have to try one soon.

 

The filter for the '09 RX8 are black Tokyo Roki filters. They are about 33% larger then the Legacy filter (length wise) but fit perfectly on the Leggy. They also use the 20-25lb by-pass like stock leggy filters do.... I use 'um in my car.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=90994&d=1286496853

Edited December 17, 2012 by csbrown28

What's everyone's thoughts on the H6 oil filter pn15208aa031?

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/21/epujeryn.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/21/ha4ezy8y.jpg

I prefer these:rolleyes:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0216081756.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0216081756a.jpg

 

Any one of the three will work. IMO the bigger the better.

 

Mike

I prefer these:rolleyes:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0216081756.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0216081756a.jpg

 

Any one of the three will work. IMO the bigger the better.

 

Mike

 

Wise guy eh?

I just got very excited about that huge Amsiol filter and realized it was the dual filter kit, bahaha.

:lol::lol: Edited December 21, 2012 by HAMMER DOWN

best place to get the puralator online? amazon 2 pack? what model is it again thanks

So is the general consensus around here still T6 with 3,750 oci? I was planning on going with T6 and a 3k mile oci but it seems like 3,750 shouldn't be a problem. Then again, this forum has me so petrified that the turbo is going to blow up, destroy the engine, and Satan himself is going to show up at my door proclaiming he's the only one that can fix it and it will cost me my soul so I'm probably just going for overkill here.

I do T6:3k.

So is the general consensus around here still T6 with 3,750 oci? I was planning on going with T6 and a 3k mile oci but it seems like 3,750 shouldn't be a problem. Then again, this forum has me so petrified that the turbo is going to blow up, destroy the engine, and Satan himself is going to show up at my door proclaiming he's the only one that can fix it and it will cost me my soul so I'm probably just going for overkill here.

 

Here is my oil analysis after 5k on T6:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/blackstone-lab-results-198099.html

 

They came back and said that based on the TBN results (additives left in the oil) that 7k should be ok.

 

Now, it really all depends on how you run your car and the conditions under which you drive your car, but I think 3K is excessive. I live in the mid Atlantic, drive my car pretty hard and have a short stop-and-go ride to work. Based on the lab results ($35) I'm going to shoot for 5K, but if I run over 500 miles I know I don't have to panic.

Can anyone tell me why Legacy GT do not come with an engine oil cooler fitted as per Subaru Engine manuals. The lack of an Engine Oil Cooler will cause the engine oil to denigrate and has been found to cause big end bearing failure in 2 ltr GT engines from 15,000 kms to 135,000 kms.

I have used Mobil Synthetic One and fram filters every 5,000 kms and my engine ran the No3 big end bearing. On investigating I found this is common fault and most engine reconditioners have had engines fail in the bearing at very low Kms.

Have other owners of Legacy GT models from 2004 to 2008 had this premature engine failure.

It does, it's what your oil filter spins on to.

 

From thread; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

 

oil cooler, I used the deep impact socket from the set I got at Harbor Fright for like $15.00 to remove the big nut stud that holds it in, again with the impact gun.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4734.jpg

Not all oils are the same when it's cold.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSAPfHnjnNQ]моторное маÑло.mpg - YouTube[/ame]

 

And here's some more.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21iYS-vaCQU]SAE ratings and hot cold test.mp4 - YouTube[/ame]

 

Just remember that this is only the viscosity when it's cold, there are other factors to consider too.

Can anyone tell me why Legacy GT do not come with an engine oil cooler fitted as per Subaru Engine manuals. The lack of an Engine Oil Cooler will cause the engine oil to denigrate and has been found to cause big end bearing failure in 2 ltr GT engines from 15,000 kms to 135,000 kms.

 

As noted in response to the above by another poster, you screw your filter onto this. And when it fails (leaks), its a $200 part. Tried replacing oil lines and hoses, O-ring to no avail. Pisses me off when a simple heat exchanger fails.

 

Was going to tackle the replacement myself, but then my clutch failed so I had them do the cooler at the same time.

Is it normal for mobil1 oil to go black in 2000 miles???

Is it normal for mobil1 oil to go black in 2000 miles???

 

That could be normal for any oil if your looking at it in the drain pan. On the dip stick, you should be able to see the stick through the oil.

 

You may want to run some Gunk motor flush through before the next oil change. Just dump it in, let the engine idle for 5 minutes then change the oil. Do Not drive the car with it in there.

So here is my last oil analysis from blackstone labs on our 2008 LGT, stock turbo, stock engine, and stage 2 tune at 17.5 psi. We have been running Subaru synthetic oil and it seems to be working great. My wife daily drives this car and we also drive it on the weekends. We don't drive this car nice. Almost 9,000 miles on this sample, the car burns no oil and we didn't need to add any oil during those 9,000 miles.

aw jeez, to run that long not be able to see what the TBN is, is killing me.

Wow, that's impressive

Just heads up Menards has rotella T6 at $21.xx for the gallon. Didnt know this!

The most IMPORTANT issue is NOT the oil quality or the oil grade, it is the use of the original OIL COOLER, which is not standard on all Subaru engines.

To call the standard Subaru oil Cooler an oil cooler is incorrect as it is a HEAT EXCHANGER in the pure sense of the word.

By changing any type oil in your Subaru engine at the very longest 5,000 miles or every 4 months which ever comes first you will eliminate ANY oil problems. Subaru engines by design are very stressed engines and the OIL is its life blood. More so than any ford or chev V8. Because the oil galleries, Variable Valve timing systems on the end of each cam shaft, bearing clearances and oil filter very close to the exhaust system came cause oil degradation which causes bearing failure and turbo failure, both of which require OIL in large volumes and EVEN tempreture. ANY spike in oil tempreture will cause engine failure. The internal design of Subaru DOHC engines require the FACTORY Oil Cooler ? Heat Exchanger to be installed, with or without a turbo charger fitted. The failure of most Subaru engines can be caused by Oil Degradation caused by LACK of this critical component. Oil grade can ave an effect BUT it totally depends on outside tempreture, so Arizona is different to Montreal. The Oil Cooler is a Preheater in the winter and a Cooler in the summer. Changing the recommended oil regularly and the correct grade for your area will eliminate premature oil failures. If you don't have a factory oil cooler your engine will run Number 3 bearing or the turbo charger. Yes you can purchase the factory cooler and fitting kit and have it installed no problem.

The most IMPORTANT issue is NOT the oil quality or the oil grade, it is the use of the original OIL COOLER, which is not standard on all Subaru engines.

To call the standard Subaru oil Cooler an oil cooler is incorrect as it is a HEAT EXCHANGER in the pure sense of the word.

By changing any type oil in your Subaru engine at the very longest 5,000 miles or every 4 months which ever comes first you will eliminate ANY oil problems. Subaru engines by design are very stressed engines and the OIL is its life blood. More so than any ford or chev V8. Because the oil galleries, Variable Valve timing systems on the end of each cam shaft, bearing clearances and oil filter very close to the exhaust system came cause oil degradation which causes bearing failure and turbo failure, both of which require OIL in large volumes and EVEN tempreture. ANY spike in oil tempreture will cause engine failure. The internal design of Subaru DOHC engines require the FACTORY Oil Cooler ? Heat Exchanger to be installed, with or without a turbo charger fitted. The failure of most Subaru engines can be caused by Oil Degradation caused by LACK of this critical component. Oil grade can ave an effect BUT it totally depends on outside tempreture, so Arizona is different to Montreal. The Oil Cooler is a Preheater in the winter and a Cooler in the summer. Changing the recommended oil regularly and the correct grade for your area will eliminate premature oil failures. If you don't have a factory oil cooler your engine will run Number 3 bearing or the turbo charger. Yes you can purchase the factory cooler and fitting kit and have it installed no problem.

 

Forgive me, but is this just your opinion? Do you have any evidence to back your claims? Are you an expert? I'm not being a butthole, I'm genuinely curious.

 

Having said that, I have a few thoughts.

 

 

Generally speaking 5k is probably a good interval for those that don't have their oil analyzed, but for those like myself and Scooby (above) have found that we can extend our changes because the oil in our engines maintain all the properties necessary to protect our engines beyond 5k miles.

 

One other question, how is an oilcooler/ heat exchanger a "pre-heater" in cold environments?

That's easy, the oil cooler had engine coolant running thru it. The coolant heats faster then the oil. Get it ?

 

Everything he say's sounds logical.

 

It's more or less what I have found in the 173,000 miles.

 

My first 154,000 miles were on whatever Dino oil was on sale at Walmart and Fram filters, I would go 3500-4000 mile OCI during the summer, sometimes using retella 15-40, in winter go back to 5-30 with longer OCI because I do a lot of highway driving during the winter.

 

My DD was about 18 miles highway to work, my friday night drive to VT and sunday night back to CT.

 

For the past 2.5 years my DD to work is 33miles one way still going to VT during the winter.

 

I replaced my shortblock because of oil usage caused by high boost without a proper tune back in the early days. My fault.

 

The ej257 is on Amsoil European 5-40 full SAPS and is currently at 6600 miles on this oil change since Jan 8 13. It will get changed soon.

That's easy, the oil cooler had engine coolant running thru it. The coolant heats faster then the oil. Get it ?

 

Yep, makes sense...thx

Some useful stuff.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zEBI1QndPo]Re: Regular Oil vs Synthetic Oil -EricTheCarGuy - YouTube[/ame]

FWIW, on oil usage, I read in the paper the other day that Chrysler just released it's ok for their 2012 and 2013 cars to use 1 qt every 750 miles.

 

How's that make you feel...