GooseSRH Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Yeah, so i'm sure you're like WTF is this dude talking about, right? Well.. I just bought a 2005 Legacy GT Limited 2.5l Turbo. I had it two days and the stock turbo blew up on me at 99,500 mi. I ordered another one that said it was an OE Fit for an '04-'07 Interchange, but it seems that the new turbo is more to the left than the stock one, and I have to push the intercooler to the left as well. The turbo bolted right up, but now.. i'm sure you get the picture.. I'd say it's off by an inch or an inch and a half. Is there an easy and cheap fix for this, like a gasket that comes up with a goose neck and goes to the right? The only real problem i'm having is the intercooler inlet into the turbo.. PLEASE FRICKEN HELP MEEEEE!! -Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 19, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 19, 2014 Are you sure that you don't have the throttle body hose oriented incorrectly? Where did you buy the turbo? What specific model is it? VF40? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 The fat one that comes up to the bottom of the intercooler? Ya'know I never thought of that... LOL I'm a new Subaru owner.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted June 19, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 19, 2014 "Up" to the bottom of the intercooler? The turbo side should come "up" to the TMIC. The driver's side should have a large diameter exit that faces towards the front of the car and attaches to the throttle body hose. There's a small flat spot on the TB hose--that should face down. There should also be a green (i think) dot on one side of the TB hose--that side connects to the TB, not the TMIC, and that green dot should be on the top side of the TB more or less (there's a mark on the TB that the dot should line up with if you are able to see that). "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 Yeah I saw it, and like I said, this is the first Subaru I've ever owned or worked on so bear with me.. I was at the point I was so frustrated that I couldn't see straight so I vaguely remember seeing a colored dot, but I honestly do not remember seeing a flat spot on the hose. I did twist it around a bit and I was still off by like a 3rd of an inch from bolting the bottom down, but I can bolt and tighten the top no problem. Starting to think I shoulda bought the 2010 Outback the guy had instead. Not really. -Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted June 19, 2014 Share Posted June 19, 2014 Pictures needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 I can get some pics tomorrow, I'm home now from my shop.. Also, I can't seem to be able to spin the turbo fins freely, is this a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 19, 2014 Author Share Posted June 19, 2014 Does the banjo bolt bolt into the turbo, or somewhere else. I tried to google some schematics on this and had no luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charged Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 There are 3 main parts to a turbo: the cold side (the front, or the part that bolts to the intercooler), the center section (where the oil/coolant lines hook up), and the hot side (bolts to the exhaust). Between the center section and the hot side there is a metal clamp that is secured with a bolt and a lock nut. If you loosen that bolt you can "clock" the turbo to rotate it to the proper position. There is a chance that whoever refurbed your turbo didn't position everything correctly. I would put both turbos side by side and make sure all their angles match. There are Youtube vids and How-to pages with pictures if you google "how to clock a turbo". Just don't mess with it unless you are positive that you need to. A new turbo should spin smoothly and freely. A new turbo will be dry (no warm oil flowing through it) so it's not going to spin like a pinwheel, there will be friction, but you shouldn't feel any binding or stiffness. Your banjo bolt question is worrying. Everything should come off the old turbo and bolt onto the new turbo in exactly the same spots. Take pictures as you work if you are loosing track of where things go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 Ok, here's an update on the situation.. I got the damn turbo in after reclocking it a quarter inch to the right. Still had to drill out one hole on the top of the turbo where the intercooler bolts in to make it fit perfectly, got that snugly bolted in. All lines, hoses, etc. back into place. Drained oil completely, dropped the oil pan, cleaned it out with a magnet and brake-kleen, blew out all the lines with an air compressor and a piece to fit each hose/line, put EEEEEEEEEEVERYTHING back together, fresh oil and filter, go to run it "vigorously" for a few miles (as suggested).. Wouldn't ya f*ckin' know it, MORE SMOKE! So I look around a bit and my lower coolant line hose going into the turbo had a rip in it. So I cut it at the rip and reclamped it to the turbo, aaaaand ROUND TWO.. STILL SMOKING AND LEAKING ANTIFREEZE.. So I shut it off and I'm going to replace the line on Monday with some spare hose I have and a nice heavy clamp. Also, it was really running like shit, (auto trans.) stalling out on me, really hesitant upon hitting the gas in Park. Now, the battery was unplugged the entire time I was working on my turbo but it had a P0118 code before hand and the infamous cruise control light blink with a CEL. Also had a code about bank 1 and 2 timing advance or something, but I read that was caused by the turbo blowing so the timing didn't really jump (or so I'm really hoping).. It kinda blew some blue smoke on the initial start up but my boss said that it was because it sat for 8 days without being started. Any input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted June 22, 2014 Share Posted June 22, 2014 You want to search here for turbo oil feed banjo filters as they are a primary cause of turbo failure due to starved bearings Depending on your year they are at the back of the block (turbo oil feed) under the turbo compressor inlet pipe (turbo oil feed/avcs) and behind the LHS cam cover (avcs). Remove and replace with infamous filtered oil feed line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 22, 2014 Author Share Posted June 22, 2014 You want to search here for turbo oil feed banjo filters as they are a primary cause of turbo failure due to starved bearings Depending on your year they are at the back of the block (turbo oil feed) under the turbo compressor inlet pipe (turbo oil feed/avcs) and behind the LHS cam cover (avcs). Remove and replace with infamous filtered oil feed line Done and done, thanks for the suggestion though! A friend of mine suggested in drilling the hole a little bigger, and all the way through for the banjo bolt that goes into the top of the turbo.. I'm not talking big like the ones on the block, but slightly bigger than the pinhole size they come with.. I told him I wasn't sure if this was a good idea or not, so we didn't do it.. But, my question is would it be beneficial, or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 23, 2014 Author Share Posted June 23, 2014 Okay, good news. I got the coolant line fixed, everything works great on the turbo.. But, here's now another f*cking problem. I have a code P2016. I googled where it was and I know I can replace it with some kind of different sensor because it's the same, but I honestly do NOT want to take the turbo out again and change this sensor. The problem i'm having is that it doesn't want to stay running.. The RPMs drop really low in ANY gear, and it just stalls. It sputters real bad when I hit the gas, and it sounds like it's backfiring.. It's just all around acting funny. And I don't mean funny ha ha I mean funny as in not normal at all. Also, I haven't had a chance to rebolt my exhaust yet because the bolts stripped out when I removed the nuts.. I guess there's stuff that even PB Blaster can't help with.. Could this be why it's acting up? Haaaalp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted June 24, 2014 Share Posted June 24, 2014 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p2016-cel-help-13949.html Yes get it bolted up for sure before proceeding. Once you have confirmed you have no boost, vac or exhaust leaks, reset the ecu and idle it gently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/p2016-cel-help-13949.html Yes get it bolted up for sure before proceeding. Once you have confirmed you have no boost, vac or exhaust leaks, reset the ecu and idle it gently. Yeah, upon take off it sounds like someone's blowing raspberries at me from under the hood, haha. Still no clue at the strange howling noise.. I suppose I should check vacuum lines but I just got done driving 20 miles home from my shop so I'm definitely letting it cool down before I touch ANYTHING. Got the exhaust bolted back together with some nice fat Ace Hardware bolts (hooray :/ ) It was all I could do.. Still acting really weird. It shifts through the gears really fast too when I get up past 20 mph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GooseSRH Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share Posted June 24, 2014 Can anyone give me a correct vacuum line schematic for an '05 Legacy GT Limited please?! Google has definitely disappointed me.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_28/intake_and_supply_system_turbocharger/intake_manifold/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted June 25, 2014 Share Posted June 25, 2014 http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4643607&postcount=207 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted July 16, 2014 I Donated Share Posted July 16, 2014 But, here's now another f*cking problem. I have a code P2016. I googled where it was and I know I can replace it with some kind of different sensor because it's the same, but I honestly do NOT want to take the turbo out again and change this sensor. That's a TGV sensor code. Do you still have it? I had the same problem aftr an engine swap. You should not have to take off the turbo to replace the sensor. I might have a spare sensor from the time I had to fix it and bought a whole bunch of TGV stuff. LMK if you need it and I'll send it for the cost of shipping. Also, I haven't had a chance to rebolt my exhaust yet because the bolts stripped out when I removed the nuts.. I guess there's stuff that even PB Blaster can't help with.. Could this be why it's acting up? What part of the exhaust? Post-turbo should be fine (although you should bolt up the front section of the DP at the very least). Pre-turbo is bad news if you keep it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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