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Replacing the Alternator/PS Belt, MY2005 2.5L Turbo


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Hey to the Legacy GT club,

 

My 2005 Outback XT has 53,500 miles on it. A squeaking under the hood warranted investigation, originally thought to be a vacuum leak. After removing the engine cover and starting the engine it was clear the noise was coming from the front pulleys. Inspecting the front-most belt - which powers the alternator and power steering (PS) by the crankshaft pulley - by feel revealed that many of the ribs were missing. The ribs create the surface area that provides the friction to keep the alternator and PS working. Quick searching through the forums revealed adjacent parts can be damaged when this belt fails. If any of the ribs on the contact side of this belt are missing it should be replaced.

 

Autozone does not have this part in their computer (only the air conditioning (AC) belt). O'Riely's Auto Parts had two different brands in stock, including the one I used as a replacement (offered with 1 year warranty).

 

Reference Photo:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=78652&stc=1&d=1262655996

 

Begin by removing the black plastic engine cover. It has four push-tabs. They may not be the phillips-type, in which case they can be removed by carefully lifting on each corner of the engine cover to pop them out upward.

 

Towards the front of the engine you will recognize the reference image. Before going further, observe the belt in the area highlighted in yellow. Approximately measure the amount of tension on the belt by pushing the belt toward the bolt head to its right; mine traveled half the distance between where the belt hung and where the adjacent bolt sits. Remember this tension, as you will have to replicate it to finish the repair.

 

All bolt heads for this repair are 12mm. Begin by loosening bolt B, which joins the alternator to the AC compressor. Do not remove it, simply back it out a couple turns. Then loosen bolt A, again not removing but simply backing it out slightly. This will allow you to adjust the position of the alternator, and thus the tension on the belt, with bolt C. Loosen bolt C (counter clockwise). With every few turns of the bolt head you will be able to apply a light smack with your hand to the top of the alternator to lower it. Continue to loosen bolt A and pivot the alternator downward until you can unhook and remove the belt.

 

In my case, as highlighted in red, removing the belt revealed that it had split in the middle. This was with only 53,500 miles. Our local roads are treated with sodium chloride and calcium chloride during the winters, which may or may not contribute to early belt failure.

 

Install the new belt by hooking it over the three pulleys (alternator, PS pump and crankshaft), making sure to fit the ribs of the belt into the gooves on each. Pull the alternator upward to create tension to keep the belt in place.

 

Tighten bolt C. Each turn will increase the tension on the belt. Replicate the same tension you observed with the previous belt with this adjustment. Once you are satisfied, tighten bolts A and B, then finally bolt C. Verify again the belt tension.

 

Install the engine cover. The push tabs simply push in downwards. The repair is now complete.

 

Notes:

 

After replacing this belt the noise coming from the engine has decreased dramatically. Given how dangerously degraded this belt was at 53,500 miles it should be inspected regularly.

acpsbelt05subaruAZizzo.jpg.e6e6fa14fe7426fed3068e0c402fa851.jpg

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Thanks for this write-up. I was pushing off tightening the belt figuring it was no big deal but after I read how simple it was and took a look (felt) the ribs on the belt, it was an immediate concern.

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4397009230_ed9b54a52d.jpg

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I plan on doing this, this weekend because my PS seems to squealing on cold starts. And I have about 86K on the stock belt.

 

Are the pully's spring loaded? Meaning If I have a pully wrench can can I simply unload the pully and slip the belt off? Or do I really need to loosen the alternator?

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I just did it yesterday. The only way I see it could be done is like the walkthrough says.the tensioner bolt seems to be the only bolt that you need to back out alot. The pivot for the alternator and the other bolt (listed as bolts a and b) only need to lossened like a half turn. If you are going to do your PS belt then you may want to do your AC belt also cause you have to do the PS to get to it. Most likely won't be as messed up as ur PS belt but still better to do it all at once. I'm interested to see what ur belt looks like after almost 90K on the stock belt. I was at 65k and mine looked really bad. If you need help with the ac belt I could post some pics.there is a bolt on the pulley that can't be loosened more than a half turn or so.
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I just did mine this past weekend. It was torn. I couldn't believe it was that bad. I checked it about a week earlier, and it was bad, but no tears...I put it off until a local shop day, and when I pulled it off, it was seperated:eek: Car only has 58k miles on it.

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replaced my belts when I did the timing belt at 96,000 miles, they looked ok not as bad the ones above.

 

I bought all the belts from Advance auto parts. That's was a year ago. Wow, I have been 34,000 miles in the past year.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Just did this. I realized I overtensioned the thicker one when the locking bolt was pushing on the belt. Backed it out and it is much better. The old belts were so stretched that power steering was notchy. All better now. The hard part is getting the belts back on. Slightly tight, but if you're fast, this is a 15 or 20 min job.
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Subaru shows this in the maintenance schedule as inspect every 30,000 miles, and replace at 105,000 miles!

 

Translation: It'll probably need to be replaced after 30,000 miles. If you haven't done so by 105,000 miles, you need to be replaced! :lol:

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