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2011 Legacy Audio Build w/ LOTS of Questions


cipher_nemo

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I haven't been into car audio since the 90s, so a good chunk of my knowledge is outdated. There are some things that never change, but I had to relearn the brands/manufacturers and expand upon some new tech.

 

Build Log for 2011 Subaru Legacy

(Ruby Red 2.5i Premium)

 

I have quite a few questions at the end of this post and would love some feedback on my plans. As I progress I'll add plenty of photos for those interested.

 

Here's a subject-to-change list...

 

  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS head unit (stereo/receiver)
  • AudioControl THREE.2 dash-mounted EQ. I really like this simple device that gives a quick and easy way to fade, sweep, and tune on the fly.
  • Focal FPS 4160 amp or an alternative amp (drives doors)
  • Focal K2 Power 165 KR2 6.5" speakers (front doors and tweets to dash)
  • Focal K2 Power 165 KRC 6.5" coax speakers (rear doors for fill)
  • Alpine MRP M500 amp (drives sub)
  • Alpine SBR-S83V 8" sub and factory-made box
  • SSD in external enclosure that hooks into the head unit via USB. The 80PRS supplies up to 1A of 5V, so it's enough to power most 2.5" SSDs across the USB. If this becomes a problem I can just make/buy my own power supply for it, but it looks like the Samsung 830 SSD I want to use needs 0.75A at operating load.
  • Music: I'm ditching MP3s. Completely. I'm now buying CDs and ripping the tracks to lossless Wave files. The 80PRS will play Wave files, and with digital storage of 128 or 256GB for reasonably priced SSDs, and 32GB and less reasonably priced thumbdrives, Storing 40 to 70MB tracks isn't a big deal these days. And yes, I can heard the difference between a song played from a 320kbps MP3 and lossless Wave or Redbook audio, even on my PC. Then again, I have a better sound system on my PC than I do anywhere else in my life. :-) Any ways, this is the main reason I'm going with the 80PRS. Alpine sux because even their flagship model doesn't let you play Wave files.
  • Misc: I still want to get a new battery, new terminals, other wiring, etc. And I really want to do a custom wiring job with breakers at the amp racks to shut power off for each line coming off my distribution blocks. As for the cables, I own quite a bit of techflex sleeving, so I plan to sleeve pretty much everything for both looks and protection. I plan to buy a little of their high-temp sleeving for the power line coming from the engine compartment, even though it's not necessary. I just want my wiring install to last the life of the vehicle.

 

I've only purchased the Alpine gear so far since that was the cheapest step. I haven't installed anything yet other than make and mount the amp & distribution blocks racks.

 

Question 1: Focal Alternatives

I'd love to hear budget-minded recommendations on the Focal equipment I've selected. I love the sound of the Focal speakers (haven't heard the amp yet), but they're way overpriced. Any suggestions on alternatives?

 

I am really NOT looking forward to paying $1k for a 4-channel amp and $700 & $950 for speakers. If there is simply no alternative for near-audiophile sound, then I'll eventually eat that price if needed. I will pay for quality, but I always want to research alternatives first. :-)

Answered: thanks xxkiloxx.

 

Question 2: Digital Storage

A lot of head unit manufacturers state that their USB connections only support up to FAT32 for partitions. According to Microsoft, FAT32 is limited to 32GB. That's not bad, but since I'm looking at adding a 128GB SSD, that might be an issue.

 

I could always break that 128GB SSD into four 32GB partitions. But if I do that will the Pioneer DEH-80PRS recognize the 4 different partitions? Or is it limited to one partition per USB connection?

 

I can't seem to make any research headroom in this. My local shops roll Alpine, not Pioneer, so I can't really walk in somewhere close to hook up an SSD and test it.

 

Question 3: Wiring for Upgrades

Is there any advantage to running multiple grounds to my ground distribution block for the amps? With the blocks I have, I could run a total of two grounds to the body.

 

Do you think 4 gauge power wiring is enough for my plans? Before anyone answers, let me clarify: Focal Elite series 4 gauge (32mm²) wiring (ie: not a cheap/skimped 4 gauge). They supply a 150A fuse with this kit, so it seems like plenty to me for the two amps I have in mind. The fuses on the amps total less than that, and with a rough 80% efficiency, that seems like enough. Please let me know if I'm missing something in my very rough calculations.

Answered: thanks xxkiloxx.

 

Also I plan to run 12 gauge speaker wire to my doors. Perhaps something simple and affordable from Stinger. For the front component speakers, 12 gauge to the crossover boxes, then 14 or 16 to the speakers themselves. I assume the 12 gauge is a little bit overkill, correct? There doesn't seem to be that much difference in price between 12 gauge and 14 or 16 gauge wire any ways.

Answered: I went ahead and bought a bunch of 12 gauge to run. Seems pliable and small enough to run under trim with other cables. The price difference was negligible.

 

Question 4: Battery, etc.

I'd like to use one of those AGM batteries since the tech looks awesome compared to the wet/gel/spiral batteries. And I'm looking at XS Power, specifically the S1200 or D5100 models. I'm not worried about the price, but is there really any difference between the S and D series other than the D series doesn't come with posts? It seems like one is targeted for the racing/performance marker and the other towards the car audio market. Otherwise the battery specs looks the same for comparable models. Do you guys think a D5100 will fit in my car's stock battery holder without modification? The XS Power site says it's compatible.

 

I doubt an aftermarket alternator is required, but I'm open to suggestions.

Resolved after research and talking with local installers.

I was looking online earlier at guides where people ran new 0 gauge wires for their existing electrical system (from battery to body ground and alternator). That seems like a waste of time for a non-competition system, correct?

Answered: The "big 3" is debatable. I'm not going for an SPL system with thousands of watts RMS. So I'm going to put this off until I'm ready to do my doors and second amp. Then I'm just doing it for fun.

 

Question 5: Wiring Layout

My battery is on the driver's side of the car, so I plan to run my power and remote lines down that side. Then RCA signal lines on the passenger's side. That seems the best way to isolate any noise generated from the power cable.

Answered: thanks xxkiloxx.

 

But what about speaker wires to the doors? Since my amps for the doors will be in the trunk area, is it ok to run them along with the RCA signal lines? Or should I go out of my way to run the RCA lines down the middle under the carpet?

Answered: thanks xxkiloxx.

 

Question 4: Panels & Rear Seat

In order to run the wiring, I'll need to remove some things. I had no problem removing the floor trim when I was checking things out (before installing). But I had trouble removing the trim panel that's on the lower portion of the pillars between the two doors on each side. Can anyone link an image or explain where those clips are located on that panel?

 

Also I need to remove the rear seats (the bottoms, not the fold-down). I was told that all you have to do is lift up REALLY hard to pop them up, then fiddle with clips at the rear to completely remove them. Is that true? Has anyone removed the rear seats in their 2010-2012 Legacy?

Resolved: I removed the rear seat and panels just fine after some playing around with them. I'll include photos in other posts below.

 

Initial progress...

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_legacy1_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_legacy2_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_legacy3_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_wires1_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_wires2_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_wires3_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_boards1_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_boards2_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_boards3_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_boards4_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_boards5_thumb.jpg

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For the wire wrapping, I have a ton of Techflex Flexo F6 boxes in multiple sizes for the interior. That's mostly for looks, but also for a little bit of abrasion resistance.

 

I might go Techflex Flexo Shield around the RCA lines and ground both ends for insane EMI protection. It doesn't cost too much for the sleeving, just time and energy to wrap it all.

 

As for the power cable exposed in the engine compartment, a couple feet of Techflex Liquid Wrap (L6) might be the easiest solution to protect it from the elements and heat.

 

http://www.techflex.com/images/prod_F6N_banner.jpg

http://www.techflex.com/images/prod_FSN_banner.jpg

http://www.techflex.com/images/prod_L6N_banner.jpg

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Try and listen to hertz hi energy line for the focal replacements. They sound amazing. Ive had good luck with the old diamond audio hex series as well.

 

upgrade your big 3 to 1/0 gauge and you should be fine without the ho alternator. I ran a very nice sq system in my car and all I needed was the big 3. I did however use 1/0 stinger wire to my distro block and 4g to my pdx-f6 and pdx-m12 amps. BTW, very good natural tone with those amps. 4g wire SHOULD work, especially since youre using legit 4g wire.

 

youre wiring layout is exactly how i did it. youll be fine with the speaker and rca's together. I ran power down the drivers side and speaker/signal on the passenger side.

 

I'm looking forward to your install.

-mike

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Try and listen to hertz hi energy line for the focal replacements. They sound amazing. Ive had good luck with the old diamond audio hex series as well.

Thanks, I'll check them out! :)

 

upgrade your big 3 to 1/0 gauge and you should be fine without the ho alternator. I ran a very nice sq system in my car and all I needed was the big 3. I did however use 1/0 stinger wire to my distro block and 4g to my pdx-f6 and pdx-m12 amps. BTW, very good natural tone with those amps. 4g wire SHOULD work, especially since youre using legit 4g wire.

 

youre wiring layout is exactly how i did it. youll be fine with the speaker and rca's together. I ran power down the drivers side and speaker/signal on the passenger side.

 

I'm looking forward to your install.

-mike

Very cool. I've found this video and it looks like the best of the bunch for the big 3. I'll either do this after I order and install a new battery, but before the bigger amp and door speakers are installed, or just right now. What do you think?

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc]Car Audio 101 - The Big 3 Upgrade Tutorial - YouTube[/ame]

 

+1

 

I cant wait to see some more pictures to get ideas for my audio

 

Thanks! :)

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I installed all my speakers, amps, sound deadening, and ran wires before I upgraded my electrical system. I just kept my gains down until I upgraded the batt and big 3. After that my amps/speakers played a lot better and I readjusted the gains to suit the more efficient electric delivery. The biggest reason for doing that way was because I ordered most of my stuff while I was home on r&r from Afghanistan but didn't have time to do the electrical as I needed to research it a bit more. I ended up with the big 3 and a yellow top optima battery. Also, I ran my ground back to the battery... Didn't "need" to but I had the wire. Also if your battery is a descent one, you can wait on that.
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Update: I just purchased a couple roles of 3M tin-plated copper foil tape (4mil) for additional shielding of RCA lines and for casing around the head-unit. This is absolutely a luxury and overkill since the RCA cables and head-unit have their own shielding. But it's a fun one I wanted to include in my near-audiophile install.

 

Tin-plated tape will make it easier to solder wire connections to the tape for grounding purposes. But more importantly, it helps it ward off corrosion (exposed copper can oxidize and corrode over time).

 

I'm going this route instead of the 'Techflex Flexo Shield' sleeving which is too expensive and has fewer uses. I'm still using my regular Techflex F6 for final cable sleeving.

 

http://www.all-spec.com/products/1183-10.html

 

http://etool.ca/GFX/PRODS/130-142.jpg

 

Finally an interesting upgrade path for digital lossless media audio. Would like to avoid mp3s myself. OP which app do you use for ripping? TIA!

 

:icon_chee I love one app I found: Easy CD-DA Extractor by Poikosoft. It's free for 30-days without any limitation, and still only $40 for licensed copy with lifetime of upgrades (sort of like FRAPS if you're a gamer).

 

Honestly, I tried to use the freeware Exact Audio Copy, but it was a total PITA. Not only did EAC not find my blu-ray drive, it also has an insane number of trivial settings that make its usage an experiment in trial and error. I just didn't want to hunt for 3rd party dll files to make EAC work. It also has an ugly UI. Easy CD-DA was much more refined. In 30 days you could probably do an entire CD collection, but I plan to buy it after my install. I've ripped 4 CDs with it so far to test the app and it was flawless on each (Die So Fluid, Metallica, Nirvana, and a Xandria CD).

 

http://i.i.com.com/cnwk.1d/i/tim/2011/11/04/50226dfbfc9b0a0e7913588e45c3bf4ba54e_2scrshot_2_540x374.png

 

I ended up with the big 3 and a yellow top optima battery. Also, I ran my ground back to the battery... Didn't "need" to but I had the wire. Also if your battery is a descent one, you can wait on that.

 

Yeah, I will most likely wait on the battery until I do my big amp for the door speakers. The head unit, mono amp, and all cables runs done right the first time is a priority for me before I get into the electrical system stuff.

 

The optima yellow top batteries are decent since they're dual-purpose crank and deep-cycle. But they still don't compare to AGM deep-cycle batteries. At least the yellow tops are less expensive than high-end AGM models. :)

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:icon_chee I love one app I found: Easy CD-DA Extractor by Poikosoft. It's free for 30-days without any limitation, and still only $40 for licensed copy with lifetime of upgrades (sort of like FRAPS if you're a gamer).

 

Honestly, I tried to use the freeware Exact Audio Copy, but it was a total PITA. Not only did EAC not find my blu-ray drive, it also has an insane number of trivial settings that make its usage an experiment in trial and error. I just didn't want to hunt for 3rd party dll files to make EAC work. It also has an ugly UI. Easy CD-DA was much more refined. In 30 days you could probably do an entire CD collection, but I plan to buy it after my install. I've ripped 4 CDs with it so far to test the app and it was flawless on each (Die So Fluid, Metallica, Nirvana, and a Xandria CD).

 

http://i.i.com.com/cnwk.1d/i/tim/2011/11/04/50226dfbfc9b0a0e7913588e45c3bf4ba54e_2scrshot_2_540x374.png

 

Amen on the EAC - too many settings that tend to be different for every CD or track. I'm with Monkey Media right now and okay with it. Planning to upgrade with DB PowerAmp or JRiver once I complete my Ivy Bridge build, but I'll research Easy CD-DA Extractor & check it out.

 

Following this thread for awesome build. Carry on sir!

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Question 2 answered...

It only supports one partition and FAT32 will be the maximum and no guarantee on compatibility on large storage devices.

 

So that's a bummer. It looks like I'll have to use two 32 to 40 GB SSDs, one for each USB from the back. And it's not fun to change sources, as you can't do it on the fly. Oh well, it's still 400 or so lossless wave songs for each SSD. But I'll need to ask if their implementation of FAT32 can read larger than 32GB partitions. The theoretical limit of FAT32 is 2TB, but each developer/manufacturer's implementation of FAT32 might vary. 32GB would be the smallest, and 2TB the largest.

 

Update: Pioneer support doesn't have a clue. Sort of pathetic, but I will keep pushing, even if I have to go all the way to the national training manager, Harry Kroll.

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I removed all of the trim and the rear seat tonight. I didn't complete as much as I wanted, but that's because I had to watch the Penn State Football game today. ;)

 

Any ways, here's some photos of it for those wanting to do the same to their 2010 to 2012 Legacy. Red arrows point to the clips where you should be focusing your pulling force to remove them...

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_interior_1_thumb.jpg

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_interior_2_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

40 feet of 12 gauge wire I picked up for speaker runs, along with a couple of my several boxes of Techflex Flexo F6 wire sleeving and two rolls of tin-plated copper foil to wrap around the RCA signal cables...

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_wires_1_thumb.jpg

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I think whenever i buy an BRAND NEW car ill throw an absolutely absurd stereo in it. i love sound quality (i work in audio systems) but feel like my car wouldn't have a long enough life to make it worth the investment

 

Yeah, I know what you mean. I waited a little too long on mine (2 years after I bought it), but then again I baby my low-mileage legacy. :)

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4-Gauge Amp Power

 

Disconnecting the battery, checking grounds, etc. Old-school metal stool/chair rubber feet do a great job of protecting the battery posts from being accidentally shorted...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_1_thumb.jpg

 

This is the stock positive connector. They coated it in a conductive goo that's probably there to protect it against corrosion and oxidation. Since this is only a temporary item for me, I removed the goo with mineral spirits and used a Scoth Bright pad to clean the contact area. In my second phase of the install, I will be replacing the battery and using Stinger terminals. So this is just temporary...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_2_thumb.jpg

 

Cleaned the positive connectors that go from the positive into the fuse box...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_3_thumb.jpg

 

4-gauge amp power cable attached to the ring terminal and protective plastic hood cut crudely to fit. The hood is only temporary for this phase of the build, so I didn't bother making an exact cut...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_4_thumb.jpg

 

Here's the underside of the fuse box's cover. I drilled two holes (slightly smaller than the bolts I used), screwed in the bolts to give it a thread, and added washers. Always attach something to the fuse box from the bottom-up to ensure you don't drill into or interfere with the tall relays. Finally I sealed it with clear nail polish. The polish dries fast, helps keep the threaded bolts stationary, and keeps out moisture. Nail polish is one of the few women's cosmetics that us guys can actually use for everyday shop stuff. ;)...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_5_thumb.jpg

 

Top of the fuse box with the two bolts sticking out. I added rubber washers to keep out water, then used rubber cement to mount a cut piece of scrap rubber I had laying around. The rubber mat is the same thickness as the rubber washers...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_6_thumb.jpg

 

Power wire and fuse mounted, ready to be sleeved...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_7_thumb.jpg

 

Power cable runs through a stock rubber grommet. I removed the grommet, drilled a hole the size of the wire (which doesn't remove all the rubber of that hole size), then inserted the wire and feed it through the hole. There is a lot of firewall stuffing (insulation) behind that hole, so make sure to move it aside or tear a hole in it before feeding the wire through. This hole is pretty high in the dash, so it helps to use a large, heavy cable that falls to the floor inside the cabin. If you're using a smaller cable, attach a weight to it first...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_8_thumb.jpg

 

Sleeved, 4-gauge power cable and fuseblock. I used Techflex Flexo F6 sleeving, nylon wire ties, and heat-shrink wrap to finish the ends. It's mostly for looks, but it offers some mild protection. The F6 does not have a high temp rating (257F continuous temp, 482F melt point), but it's plenty for being away from the engine area. For the Big 3 wire install I'll do in a later phase, I'll use Techflex Liquid L6 instead...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_9_thumb.jpg

 

4-gauge and remote wires running through trim on the driver's side. I terminated the remote wire with a quick-disconnect end right at that plastic bulk of connectors near the top of the photos. I put heat shrink around it to protect it. So when I'm ready to install the head unit, I don't have to go far for the remote cable. I don't want to run it all the way to the dash yet. The 4-gauge fit nicely in the first two stock wire harness clips, but I had to run it further inside the trim for the 3rd and later clips since a second bundle of wires meets there...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_power_10_thumb.jpg

 

Backside of driver's side B Pillar trim panel...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_panels_1_thumb.jpg

 

Backside of driver's side corner trim kick panel. Notice the direction of the mounts. To remove this you should remove the plastic plug/clip at the far corner first, then pull the bottom of the panel towards you (out), then push up at the top of panel to remove the last clip. This is truly my most hated panel that I had to remove. For my first removal, it was a learning experience and I ended up breaking off a small piece of the pink mounting clip for the top portion (the side that rests in the car's body). But it didn't ruin it, as I just rotated the clip a little and it still works fine...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_panels_2_thumb.jpg

 

I'm a little sore today from crawling around in my corner figuring out how I wanted to run these cables, and taking off panels, etc. But a Kobalt (Lowe's brand) Kneeling Panel saved my knees!...

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/kobalt_kneeling_panel.png

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I called Pioneer support and they're clueless beyond what's written down for them. I still don't know if the DEH-PRS80 can support up to 2TB FAT32 partitions from its USB port.

 

2TB is the theoretical limit of FAT32, though people usually use Windows NTFS or a Linux EXT partition schema when they go that big. When it comes to car audio, manufacturers only support up to FAT32, so I can't go with a regular PC file allocation schema for large drives.

 

I posted on their Facebook wall, so who knows, I might get an answer there where support couldn't help. Otherwise contacting Pioneer's Harry Kroll directly is my last resort. If I never get an answer, I will just try it myself after purchasing the DEH-80PRS and return it if it can't support the full FAT32 spec.

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I really suck at CAD, but I managed to use my limited SketchUp skills to create a model to help me visualize my amp racks. The models are accurate for basic dimensions like width, height, length, etc. But other detailed dimensions are roughly represented.

 

The Alpine mono amp is on the left and the Focal 4-channel is on the right. I may not ever use Focal, but their FPS 4160 is beast, so pretty much any alternative amp I go with is going to be the same size or smaller.

 

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_amp_racks_1.png

 

I bought a Stinger device to act as both a 200 amp and kill switch for power to the trunk. This will be mounted right below the power and ground distribution blocks on the smaller board...

 

http://images.sc1.netdna-cdn.com/D/Circuit-Breakers-SGP90200-detailed-image.jpg

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Great start!

 

I vote on ditching the rear fill. If you are heading that route, study da piss outa t/a, phase, etc.

 

Lol, take that money & add a set of midranges. I'm near positive that H/U has 3-way active capabilities

 

Thanks. :)

 

And yes, that is something I've debated myself. A lot of audiophiles recommend going hi-mid-low out of the 3 RCAs of head units and using those 3-way components systems to get a 6", a 3" higher-mids, and a tweeter. The Pioneer Stage-4 (DEX-P99RS) head unit actually has an insane number of RCA outs (four). The DEH-80PRS I'm looking to get has the typical three RCA outs.

 

While there's no argument the three-way component layout would sound better, the difficulty and price of that arrangement is really ramped up from the regular 2-way component layout. The issue would be having to fabricate or purchase a pod and adapt it to my Legacy. I hate A-pillar mounted stuff, so it would have to be a door pod or me doing a custom install instead of using stock mounts. I'm already going to add dampening material to my doors (ie: dynamat-like stuff), so I don't really want to pile on the additional work of doing 3-ways.

 

As for the rear doors, I'd probably buy the front door components first, listen and tune the system, then determine if I want rear fill as well. I'm after a lot of tight mid-bass (which is why I'm only adding an 8" sub), so having four 6" speakers is a plus if I have the amp power there. If I like the sound of just the front doors, then I'll add an entry-level model of Focal components (just the 6") to the rear doors for fill. If I want a little more power out of them, I'll duplicate the front K2 Power models in the rear doors.

 

So I'm up for changing my game plan in the rear fill department, but I'm not willing to go 3-way up front.

 

But just to appease the possibility, I'm going to get the K2 Power components and tweak and listen to them first. If I'm really not happy with the separation of frequencies, then I can always move them to rear fill and incorporate a 3-way in the front. I've listened to the 3-way and 2-way K2 line in shops, and the 2-way is adequate for me. But as we all know, things sound different in our vehicles than they do on a demo board. ;)

 

So thanks for the advice TehRicer. It brings back some old debates I've done in my head to get me thinking about possibilities again.

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3 way configurations have their advantages, but don't bother unless you are familiar w/ tuning. For the fellow DIY'er, a simple 2-way point source configuration can achieve great results, & at a more friendly price point. I just pointed out the option given the backround info you've listed.

 

Randomness:

 

I've been running 2-way the past year. Vifa's in the pillars & HAT's in the doors. A few weeks ago, I swapped out my HAT's, grabbed some towels, & started playing around w/ kick panel locations. Needless to say, I sold the HAT 6.5" drivers & opted for a set of 5" drivers.

 

Ideal point source locations kick asss.

 

Focal is great stuff, but pricey. Raw drivers from PE or madisound have my heart. My $30 Peerless Mids match right up there w/ the "mainstream" products 10x the cost -literally.

 

For the hell of it, the HDS series took 2nd in the battle of the 4" midrange. They scored above the HAT Legatia's. Lol, the Legatia's are 10x the cost, lmfao. I'm really debating on going 3-way w/ the HDS 4" in the kicks & picking up some cheap woofers for the doors. But, a set of Rainbow 3-ways just popped up on CACO. Oh the options!

 

 

I'm in for more pics. Lol, send me some sleeving

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Some updates from over the weekend. Here's the RCA cables run...

 

 

I sleeved three audio cables, two Focal Elite ER5 cables for front/back and one Monster cable for sub. I used Techflex Flexo F6 wrap, with nylon zip ties every 16", and then heat-shrink wrap at the ends...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_rca_1_thumb.jpg

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPbPrem1OCI]Helpful Video for Stock Stereo Removal[/ame]

 

 

I removed the center dash panel around the stock head-unit. Before doing so, I taped the area along the instrument cluster so as to prevent scratching by the panel. It was pretty easy. And a big thanks to SuperAkuma for the good advice of making a fist within the compartment area to pop out the bottom of the panel. That let me remove it without any special tools...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_dash_1_thumb.jpg

 

 

This is the panel I removed from the bottom of the passenger's side dash. It's sort of a cheap, thin fiber-glass that's lightly carpeted on one side. But I love the plastic snaps, as you use a phillips screwdriver to make a half-turn to remove them, then insert and press them down to re-install them.

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_dash_2_thumb.jpg

 

 

The easiest way I found to run cables from high in the dash to under the dash is to tape a fairly heavy socket onto the end of a cable and drop it through. I used a socket that's a similar diameter as the cables I'm going to run, since this helps me check the clearances...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_dash_3_thumb.jpg

 

 

I ran the RCA cables along the trim, down along the bottom edge (not up in the stock cable run areas). Since I ran all three cables together, it's somewhat thick. This is proof that it's pretty easy to run 0 gauge cables under the stock trim of a 5th gen Legacy. :)

 

RCA cables running under the rear seat, secured in place with aluminum tape...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_rca_3_thumb.jpg

 

 

RCA, power, and remote wire running to the trunk area...

http://modarmor.com/images/car_audio/caraudio_rca_2_thumb.jpg

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if you haven't ripped too much of your collection, I'd go with FLAC level 8 rather than .wav. It'll take longer to rip but you'll save a lot of HDD space with the same audio quality.

 

EDIT: I don't see a DAC in your setup either? If you're not going that route I'd almost recommend sticking with MP3.

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if you haven't ripped too much of your collection, I'd go with FLAC level 8 rather than .wav. It'll take longer to rip but you'll save a lot of HDD space with the same audio quality.

 

EDIT: I don't see a DAC in your setup either? If you're not going that route I'd almost recommend sticking with MP3.

 

50-70MB a song is not a big deal when I'll be rolling at least a 128GB SSD. That's probably a little less than 2,000 songs.

 

As for a DAC, don't need a separate one. Did you look at the head unit I'll be using? The Pioneer DEH-PRS80 has three Burr-Brown 24-bit DACs (one for each frequency), along with a 28-bit floating-point DSP.

 

I won't go MP3 when I have that sort of DAC power built-into the head unit already. The sound quality will be as if it was reading from a CD.

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I'm sorry but did I miss where you state what amps/amp you will be using? Old age has a way of catching up to me lol. I'm really enjoying how it is all in the details with you. Will be following this thread closely and appreciate that you have taken the time to share it.

:)

2010 2.5GT limited is for sale. :)
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