Oils other than Rotella

I know this has been addressed countless times & there's threads on it but I feel as if nobody as a definite answer in the replies. I need an oil change within these next two weeks before I take a little road trip & now that Rotella has changed their formula I'm unsure of what to use now. I'm all stock. What do you guys now use? I know Amsoil, Pennzoil, and Motul are solid but unsure of what oil to get. Stick with a 5w-40 synthetic diesel?

 

Thanks.

What has rotella become and when did they change their formula

My brother has been running Motul for 12 years in his STI. Its been making 375 whp for the majority of that time and he hasn't had issues. A lot of people I know say use Motul or Amsoil.

My brother has been running Motul for 12 years in his STI. Its been making 375 whp for the majority of that time and he hasn't had issues. A lot of people I know say use Motul or Amsoil.

 

Both in a full synthetic 5w-40?

The answer boils down to "use the oil that matches your change interval and driving habits". Hard on the car? Buy the expensive stuff. Easy work driver? Get the good stuff that's easy to find. Still don't know what changed with the Rotella formula but any good oil is good for a certain amount of time. I'd rather run oil I can grab at the store than need to order online when I'm a quart low. Amsoil usually ranks high, find a local dealer or store that stocks it and you should be good to go. A couple NAPAs around me stock it but I'm just running Rotella in Mrs. Spif's 05 becuase of price and easy availability at any wal-mart.

The answer boils down to "use the oil that matches your change interval and driving habits". Hard on the car? Buy the expensive stuff. Easy work driver? Get the good stuff that's easy to find. Still don't know what changed with the Rotella formula but any good oil is good for a certain amount of time. I'd rather run oil I can grab at the store than need to order online when I'm a quart low. Amsoil usually ranks high, find a local dealer or store that stocks it and you should be good to go. A couple NAPAs around me stock it but I'm just running Rotella in Mrs. Spif's 05 becuase of price and easy availability at any wal-mart.

 

Yeah that's what I was thinking. Thanks. I just take the car to work & back + out with friends a couple times a week. I'll probably go with Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 synthetic

Yeah that's what I was thinking. Thanks. I just take the car to work & back + out with friends a couple times a week. I'll probably go with Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 synthetic

 

Good choice.

My brother has been running Motul for 12 years in his STI. Its been making 375 whp for the majority of that time and he hasn't had issues. A lot of people I know say use Motul or Amsoil.

 

Ill second this. Ive ran motul in all 4 subarus and its the best stuff out in my opinion

Ill second this. Ive ran motul in all 4 subarus and its the best stuff out in my opinion

 

Ended up using my friends amazon prime & getting the 5 liter Motul 8100 X-cess 5w-40 gasoline/diesel synthetic!

Before you change that new oil out. send a sample of it to Blackstone Labs and see how good it is.

 

The Amsoil 5-40 European Classic Full SAPS was good for at least another 2000 miles when I sent them a sample at 7000 miles. I still change it at 7-8000 miles 5 years later.

 

I use there filers too. Sign up for a preferred membership and get it cheaper and quickly when you place an order. I pay $5.85 a quart. Use EA15K13 filter.

In my experience with long road trips in my Subaru, they are very easy on the oil and it won't go dirty anywhere near as quickly as regular driving. Just saying.

In my experience with long road trips in my Subaru, they are very easy on the oil and it won't go dirty anywhere near as quickly as regular driving. Just saying.

 

Yep, longer drives are much better for these cars. We have been saying that for years.

 

The first 154,000 miles ,my wagon got whatever 5w-30 was on sale at Walmart and Fram filters. I would do the oil changes between 3500 and 5000 miles. Other than the vf40 making noise at 141,000 miles there were no other oil related issues. The shortblock and heads were in decent shape bearing wise when I put the ej257 in at 154,000 miles.

Oil is oil. With the exception of Mobil 1, I've never come across anyone having issues with any other synthetic (and there are members using Mobil 1 without problems, too, btw).

 

Modern synthetic oil from any reputable manufacturer is going to protect the engine just fine for the recommended 3750 interval. Most people's used oil analysis' indicate that synthetic oils can easily go for 5,000+ (and I've seen some with 7,000+) miles in these engines.

As has been mentioned, Rotella is still essentially the same. Since it's for diesels it's no longer rated for cars. Use it or don't.

 

SC

Rotella T6 is still rated for gasoline engines, T5 Ultra is not.

 

http://rotella.shell.com/products.html

 

And I'm not sure they changed T6 either. They did introduce a new multi-vehicle T6, but still have plain T6, which I am going to continue to use.

 

http://rotella.shell.com/media/2016/shell-lubricants-announces-shell-rotella-portfolio.html

As has been mentioned, Rotella is still essentially the same. Since it's for diesels it's no longer rated for cars. Use it or don't.

 

SC

 

Rotella T6 is still rated for gasoline engines, T5 Ultra is not.

 

http://rotella.shell.com/products.html

 

And I'm not sure they changed T6 either. They did introduce a new multi-vehicle T6, but still have plain T6, which I am going to continue to use.

 

http://rotella.shell.com/media/2016/shell-lubricants-announces-shell-rotella-portfolio.html

 

T6 did not change, aside from losing the gas rating. They added a new T6 labeled 'multi-vehicle' that has lower zinc and phosporus to meet the gasolene ratings. Same formula otherwise.

 

IMO, if you have emissions - go with the Multi vehicle. If you dont have emissions, or catalytic converters, go diesel T6. They say the zinc and phos are bad for cats.

T6 did not change, aside from losing the gas rating. They added a new T6 labeled 'multi-vehicle' that has lower zinc and phosporus to meet the gasolene ratings. Same formula otherwise.

 

IMO, if you have emissions - go with the Multi vehicle. If you dont have emissions, or catalytic converters, go diesel T6. They say the zinc and phos are bad for cats.

 

Its interesting that you say the zinc and phosphorous are bad for cats...the problem I have with that idea is that motorcycles now have cats on them and it has been widely accepted practice for a long time to use the diesel rated oils in them because the friction modifiers in standard car oil mess with the wet clutch in the bike where the engine and transmission share the same sump. I dont know either way if the zinc and phosphorous are bad for cats but if they are, I'm probably going to be replacing one eventually since most of the oil I have stockpiled is the diesel type 5w-40

Rotella T6 is still rated for gasoline engines, T5 Ultra is not.

 

http://rotella.shell.com/products.html

 

And I'm not sure they changed T6 either. They did introduce a new multi-vehicle T6, but still have plain T6, which I am going to continue to use.

 

http://rotella.shell.com/media/2016/shell-lubricants-announces-shell-rotella-portfolio.html

 

It would appear that Shell says otherwise.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5596323&postcount=34

 

http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic.html

API: CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4

http://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_gasoline

 

http://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-documents/oil-categories#tab_diesel-c-categories

 

SC

T6 did not change, aside from losing the gas rating. They added a new T6 labeled 'multi-vehicle' that has lower zinc and phosporus to meet the gasolene ratings. Same formula otherwise.

 

IMO, if you have emissions - go with the Multi vehicle. If you dont have emissions, or catalytic converters, go diesel T6. They say the zinc and phos are bad for cats.

Sparkey, the post I mentioned in the post above this one has this information that you posted from Shell:

We reformulated the oil to improve its oxidation life and temperature stability, and to meet the new API CK-4 standards. The API SN will stay on the Rotella T6 Multi-vehicle, but will be going away on the other Rotella formulas.

How does that mean that it did not change when they reformulated it to meet the CK-4 standard?

 

SC

Well that is interesting. If you look at the description of T6 at http://rotella.shell.com/products.html

It says:

"Introducing an engine oil that performs extremely well in diesel and gasoline engines, meeting API CK-4 and SN performance standards."

 

Of course that could be a typo and meant for the multi-vehicle version.

Sparkey, the post I mentioned in the post above this one has this information that you posted from Shell:

How does that mean that it did not change when they reformulated it to meet the CK-4 standard?

 

SC

 

 

Your right, i forgot that when they dropped the gas rating they picked up CK4 which is more heat resistant and one other improvement - but they didnt actually 'reformulate' it from my discussions with shell.

Its interesting that you say the zinc and phosphorous are bad for cats...the problem I have with that idea is that motorcycles now have cats on them and it has been widely accepted practice for a long time to use the diesel rated oils in them because the friction modifiers in standard car oil mess with the wet clutch in the bike where the engine and transmission share the same sump. I dont know either way if the zinc and phosphorous are bad for cats but if they are, I'm probably going to be replacing one eventually since most of the oil I have stockpiled is the diesel type 5w-40

 

I run T6 in my 16 kx450 with rekluse - no cat on it.

 

Its not so much an idea. Remember - it was accepted without question in the days of bikes not having cats. Its likely being questioned now. Funny too that bikes now have cats... Thanks EPA!!

 

The EPA has requred the removal of phosphorus from everything (i had to deal with this when i sold fertilizer) and zinc in oils. The zinc and phos coat the metals in cats making them ineffective. It doesnt clog, but the effectiveness of a cat begins to drop. Once you are below 80% effective (not positive on the percentage) then youre required to change the cat - if you have emissions testing.

 

Not all car oils have the friction modifiers - t6 was gas engine rated just a short time ago yet is also JASO rated and without modifiers. Its best to read the label of the product in question or go to the mfg.

 

Also, im sure someones going to pipe up with 'yea, but diesels have cats too'. Yes, however they function completely different.

 

@John J - I contacted shell a whike back, its a typo.

Just use this if your not sure about the new t6,

http://applications.castrol.com/oilselector/en_us/c/recommendation?vehicleType=cars-and-suvs&manufacturer=subaru&model=legacy-outback-bl-bp-(2004-2009)&modelType=legacy-outback-2-5-turbo-(2006-2009)

 

Send a sample off to the Lab after 3500 miles and see what they say.

I've used T6 when I had my high mileage Spec. B. Oil changes every 3k. Switched to Motul after I bought a 2016 Hyperblue sti. Oil change intervals are still 3k and I suppose that's what really matters.

 

 

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