Rcebowl Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 I just picked up a (new to me) 2005 Legacy GT 5-speed wagon. Black with tan interior, with 101,000 miles. The car was an purchased from a wholesaler. Apparently the turbo was recently replaced. During all the test drives the car was nice and strong. motor had strong compression test. purchased the car and 3 days later. Turbo doesn't spool and car puffs white smoke, and i'm starting to hear metal on metal noise near the turbo. Looks like turbo blew. IF infact the turbo was replaced I'm wondering what could have caused turbos to blow so quickly. I'm looking to get the car fixed and probably upgrading. so I want to cover all my bases. I'm going to get the OCV's replacement, and new oil lines. Could there be anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted August 30, 2013 I Donated Too Share Posted August 30, 2013 Oh boy. If you read through this entire site you will soon know the answer to this question. Welcome to the site, we're here to help but you will find members who will point out you need to search as these questions, just like yours get asked over and over again. In short... They likely had a turbo failure before in that car. When the turbo fails it ejects debris into the block which when not cleaned out completely which is incredibly difficult to do properly, usually means scrapping the engine because it will damage far more than the turbo anyway! Think crank bearings, heads, cams the lot, all damaged by tiny pieces of metal. So they have likely drained out all the oil, flushed it a few times (maybe) and shoved on another second hand turbo - or new one... doesn't matter. Soon the debris comes like a trained killer and wrecks the replacement turbo's bearings. And thus your cycle. Now... these are great cars and they are fantastic to drive but you will need to get a replacement engine. So get it to someone who can take a good look at it and make sure this is what's happening. I am sorry this is the news but I will tell you these cars are worth it!! Do you have any kind of lemon law warranty or as an auction is that off the table? I recently threw a rod in my engine, completely destroyed it, heads the lot. A complete write off. I'm building a new engine - there's nothing else out there that will make me happy than to have THIS car back on the road. Hard to convince a new owner of this but many of us have rebuilt/replaced their engine because this car has a value others do not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 unfortunately blown turbo usually takes everything else out due to the oil filter bypass that sends all the debris back into the engine. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rcebowl Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Wow you have got to be kidding. thats freaking crazy so BC my crappy turbo blew I need to replace the whole motor. What are the options to "clean out" the motor? Like none and just SOL?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K2e2vin Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Check the turbo feed line filter. It's inside the banjo bolt on the back of the motor. I had a similar incident with my '05 LGT as yours and found out(too late) that the filter was clogged and the motor/turbo went after I had the car for about a month. Have a shop check the bearings and cam journals. If those are still good, the engine is salvageable/reuseable; but you may also want to replace the oil pump too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Pull the engine have the heads rebuilt have the machine shop rebuild the short block use a new oil pump and oil cooler remove both banjo filters use good oil and a good oil filter on your re-built engine. Some have been lucky to just drop the oil pan, clean it out, replace the oil cooler, flush the oil system before you install the new cooler. But you are now on the second turbo...that blew. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Wow you have got to be kidding. thats freaking crazy so BC my crappy turbo blew I need to replace the whole motor. What are the options to "clean out" the motor? Like none and just SOL?? yes. there are many that the engines died and others that were fine. it depends on how much the car was driven after the turbo blew. if the engine was warm and your driving and go to the shop your fine. but if you see the problem shut the car off let it cool down and restart it thats where the problems can begin. as the bypass of the filter lets dirty oil go into the rest of the engine dammaging the bearings leading to bearing faiiure. and even the bypass of the filter led to your turbo failure because it let shit through that blocked the banjobolt filter that made your turbo die to begin with. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Wow you have got to be kidding. thats freaking crazy so BC my crappy turbo blew I need to replace the whole motor. What are the options to "clean out" the motor? Like none and just SOL?? He's not. If you're lucky, you stopped driving in time, it might be as simple as replacing the turbo and oil. If you got metal into the system, you're looking at about $5k, probably not a whole lot more then you paid for the car. If you recently got the car who was the turbo replaced by? What warranty or claim can you make? I ask because the prior turbo probably failed and was simply replaced. All that metal still floating around in the oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bassman81 Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 This just happened to me too. A new turbo is a good sign that the engine will be the next to go and it's not cheap! I mean you'll be paying a small fortune in time and/or money to get it going. I guess the bright side is you'll have a relatively rare car that runs like the dickens though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crpt_keeper Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 The 05's have a history of turbo issues because of the line filters. I just had the turbo in my 05 replaced. Luckily my motor is fine, but I knew it was going and was able to pull over and shut her down as the turbo let go. Check your oil for metal, if its got metal your in trouble if not you may be in luck. If the motor is ok I recommend going VF52 if you can. Its a much better turbo. Best of luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4pasnu Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 6000 miles later engine still running strong on stage 3 after a blown turbo. Bought the car from original owner with 150k miles. Installed BNR 16G & assorted boltons and cryotune. 4 oil changes with the non-bypass much larger filter tp be sure clean engine. Just did valve cover gaskets and nice and clean inside engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Yup, this is my understanding too, and I'll repeat it. When you see one turbo go and then another turbo shortly afterward that's a good sign that the motor won't be far behind.. If you shut the car down immediately after the first turbo goes and don't start again untill it's been thoroughly gone over, you may be okay. Check the turbo for damage that may have sent metal into the oil, check the banjo bolt filters (2) for metal, and the oil pan. If you don't find any metal in the oil or the motor you might be able to safely replace the turbo, banjo bolt filters, the oil cooler & oil pump, and have a healthy motor. You might instead install an turbo oil line kit with an inline filter that can be easily serviced/monitored, and this would be in place of the banjo bolt filters. If you find metal flakes anywhere, its probably too late. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4pasnu Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 I had fine metal sheen in my oil. Took 4 oil changes in about 1000 miles before it cleared up. I had no chunks in mine. On mine, the exhaust turbine snapped off. The downpipe looked like a metallic chocolate milkshake. Some people including myself have made it without replacing engine others not so. Just Pray! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 6000 miles later engine still running strong on stage 3 after a blown turbo. Bought the car from original owner with 150k miles. Installed BNR 16G & assorted boltons and cryotune. 4 oil changes with the non-bypass much larger filter tp be sure clean engine. Just did valve cover gaskets and nice and clean inside engine 4pasnu - which oil filter did you go with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4pasnu Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 I use the Purolator PureONE PL 14460. When you compare it to the tiny standard one for our 2.5 turbo it is obvious. I have never trusted a bypass valve in any oil filters especially on a turbo car. It is the filter for non turbo 2.5. The put the bypass valve to protect engine when the filter gets clogged and other reason but sending unfiltered oil into an engine sounds more dangerous to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 ^ it still has a 20-25 psi bypass. http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/resources/Popup/Pages/PartDetailPopup.aspx?partnum=pl14460 Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted September 4, 2013 Share Posted September 4, 2013 You want a by pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 ^ i disagree with all my heart and soul ! Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 ^ Is there a purolator filter number you'd recommend we use? I'd like to start using a non-bypass. EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp233 Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 As discussed in the big bypass oil filter thread, i have used the puralator 14460 for literally 300,000 miles in n/a subarus for eons. But its bypass, like nearly all filters are. It is bigger than the OEM LGTWRXFXTOBXT filter, but that's about it. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4pasnu Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Go to bobistheoilguy.com lots of great information on bypass valves. The PureONE on our Subaru engines has a consensus of "best choice" and will stay out bypass most of the time. The bypass valve will open when there is a 20psi differential drop across the media. With the larger filter area you would probably never see that and can safely run T6 Rotella and probably even at cold startup still filter oil. Even the location of the valve is best on the PureONE so no particles would be flushed out of the filter and deposited back into the engine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 ^ i can say definitely there is a greater than 20 psi differential at start up. the pump is pumping about 90psi ! and every cold start up a certain amount of oil shoots by. if you have shit blocking the banjo bolt filters .. that means it got by the oil filter bypass... and everyone has that same debris on their banjo bolt filters. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 ^ Is there a purolator filter number you'd recommend we use? I'd like to start using a non-bypass. i have been searching.. there is only 1-2 filters that are non bypass that are m20 thread. and the o rings doesnt match on one and the other is not availiable anywhere. if you did a remote filter adapter it would be the easiest way and just use any 1987 - 2008 gm v6 oil filter. they are m18 thread. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLegacy99 Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Woof. That's crappy luck. I was lucky to have my transmission done at a Subaru speciality shop that cleaned out my banjo filter bolt before it became a problem...do the new Subaru's come this way? ....or that is, does the new WRX, XT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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