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reliable ground points


RustyShackleford

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This is a question and also a heads-up for those running high-current

consuming devices = typically big amplifiers (but in my specific case

an always-on high-capacity lighter outlet to drive a big inverter) ...

 

Anyhow, I ran an 8ga wire from the battery through the wheel-well

hood-release cable grommet, and grounded the outlet to what appeared

to be a chassis-connected piece of steel just rear of the gearshift stalk.

Seemed to work fine - I tested with a 10amp draw and saw 200mv of IR

drop (evenly split between GND and 12v paths).

 

Then, suddenly, the outlet stopped working and I saw 7v of drop between

the battery GND and my outlet's GND. Pretty weird. Not sure what

happened.

 

Anyhow, I wonder what's a foolproof way for identifying a good ground

point on the chassis (in the cabin area) ...

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Seat bolts. They go right into the chassis. Just be sure to clean the area around the hole down to bare metal, and your connection should go UNDER the seats leg. If you want to be really anal about it, you can put washers as spacers under the other legs so the seat is "level".
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  • 4 months later...

bump to this thread!

 

I have heard a lot about different grounds in different places each being "the best." What really is the best? Chassis if you can't reach the engine block? Extra "grounding kit" style wire to connect the chassis ground to the block better? Please chime in if you know about grounding specific to the LGT.

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