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MR Coilover Install + Seized Brembo Caliper Bolt Repair


a.lim

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I had the weekend planned for a couple installs: resurfaced rotors, Stoptech brake pads on all corners, and Megan Racing coilovers. I'm going to try to explain the coilover install in a basic manner. Then I will explain how I repaired my Brembo brake caliper threads which seized and stripped the caliper threads.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/IMAG0226.jpg?t=1274686681

 

1. Camber Bolt 19mm, torqued @ 120 ft. lbs.

2. Brake Line and ABS Line (not pictured, on opposite side of the strut) 12mm - I think. Correct me if I'm wrong.

3. Strut Bolt 19mm, torqued @ 120 ft. lbs.

 

Soak 1 & 3 w/ PB Blaster a day prior to install day. This will help with getting all the nuts loose, especially the rear. Despite all the remarks about how much of a PITA the 1 rear strut bolt is to take off, I managed to take it off fairly easy with a 2 ft. breaker bar.

Start with either the fronts or rears. And make sure you remove both wheels when doing the install. If not, the uneven pressure on the arms and sway bar might make things more difficult. Let's start with the fronts.

 

Jack up fronts and place jack stands. Remove wheel and take off 2. Don't forget there's the ABS line on the other side. Then take off 1 then 3.

 

Remove the 3 top hat bolts (torqued to 20 ft. lbs.) and have a buddy hold the strut while you do just in case the strut falls. Your strut is out.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/IMAG0227.jpg?t=1274687921

 

Adjust your coils with a rough estimate to where you want it lowered before it goes on the car - it will save you a lot of time. I adjusted my fronts to 2.75 inch gap between the lower lock and the upper lock. I have 18s with 245/40 tires and the drop is around 1.5 inches for the front - top of tire is matched with fender height. NOTE. If not MR sedan coils, ignore my settings because most likely it will be different.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/IMAG0225-1.jpg?t=1274687944

 

Install the coilover back in and hand tight the 3 top hat bolts in, but do not torque. I found it very helpful to get a jack and add support on the control arm to adjusted height so you don't have to worry about holding the drooping control arm to line up 1 and 3. Most of you don't need to, its just I've got these tiny hands..

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/IMAG0240-1.jpg?t=1274688638

 

Torque bolts 3 then 1 to 120 ft. lbs. (hand tight both first) then the top hat bolts to 20 ft. lbs. Secure both ABS line and brake line bolts. After that, your front is done. NOTE. Over tightening top hat bolts can cause the threads to strip! And make sure you don't forget the washer on the nut end of bolt 1.

 

Onto the rears. Sorry, no pictures.

 

Now that your rear strut bolt has been soaked for a while, it should be fairly easy to remove with a breaker bar.

 

Jack up rear, place jack stands and remove tires. Remove the one rear strut bolt - 19mm.

 

Remove trunk liner to access the rear top hat bolts. There is only two on each coil this time. Top hat bolts are located underneath the side carpets in the very back so you need to remove the pop clips first. I took out a total of six pop clips. NOTE. There are three obvious ones on each side, but there is one in the back behind the rear seat. Just follow the carpet lining and you'll find the clip. Remove the 2 top hat bolts.

 

NOTE. When taking out the rear strut bolt, you will need to add upwards pressure with a jack on the strut. Otherwise there is uneven pressure on the bolt and it will not come out.

 

Install correctly set coilover into the car. Start with hand tightening the top hat bolts.

 

Align the rear strut holes with a jack again to insert the bolt back in. Torque strut bolt to 120 ft. lbs. then the top hats to 20 ft. lbs.

 

OPTIONAL. Cut a hole in the carpet to where the dampeners are if you want to adjust on the fly.

 

That's pretty much it to a coilver install. Of course install procedures may vary depending on different manufacturers.

 

Now..

 

When doing my rotors, I ran into a seized bolt issue on the Brembo calipers. Apparently this issue is common on these Brembos. :mad:

 

My threads are f*****. It wouldn't even torque to 10 ft. lbs.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/IMAG0246-1.jpg?t=1274690851

 

Although there is already a different thread resolving this issue with a HeliCoil procedure, I decided to rethread to a bigger size and bolt so I can retain the bolt to caliper setting. HeliCoil is mainly used for spark plugs/head repairs and are ideally used to retain stock threading and bolt measurement just because you cannot get a different spark plug size. HeliCoil procedure involves boring out the thread, tapping the thread, and then finally inserting the HeliCoil insert to retain original threading and bolt size. Since we are dealing with brakes and it's nature (vibration/torque) I wanted to make sure I wasn't depending on a insert to hold down my Brembos. We can argue on what's better, but this isn't about that. I'm just showing how I did.

 

The stock Brembo caliper bolt should be a high grade 12mm, 1.5 thread, and 37mm in length. I decided to thread with a 9/16th tap using a T-handle wrench, which is 14.2875mm in diameter. It came out clean.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/IMAG0249.jpg?t=1274691410

 

I bored out the caliper knuckle with a 9/16th drill bit and used 9/16th high grade bolts which were available at my local hardware store. For the drill bit, bolts, T-handle wrench, and the bit I paid a total of $35.65 compared to a $88 HeliCoil kit @ the local auto parts store. The stock Brembo bolts can only be purchased at dealerships and are usually rare items for stock.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v301/androofoo/IMAG0242.jpg?t=1274691919

 

I am not responsible for anything. Please use this guide, simply just as a guide. Just here to help.

 

Happy installing. :)

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Good deal a.lim I like the brakes. Now you're ready to come with me to the track :D

 

I'm getting there! I might be able to run, but I want my car done 100%. Looking for an oil cooler + radiator upgrade.

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do you require and alignment after coil over install ? The reason i ask, Is i want to go coils instead of springs, but our climate in the winter here is the more harsh in all of North America so Im debating to switch back and forth between my specb bilsteins and the coils in spring and fall.
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^^ Yes you'll need an alignment because when you are switching things you are basically messing up your alignment from the get-go. The alignment for most people is to get the best wear out of your tires. For others is to get the most performance out of your setup (or a little of both).
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  • 4 years later...

Holycrap! I got this msg in my email! I no longer have this car, but I had Megans and RCE T1s before i sold it. Only rubbing you have to worry about is the rear. Need to watch those offsets or you'll rub even with a roll.

 

I had 17x8.5 +45 on 245/40/17 at the time. No issues. I think with 18s you might be pushing it on the rear.

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