mr walker Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 I'm currently replacing all of the bushings in the shifter assembly of my 96 OB. The spring pin came out without too much protest (to my surprise), but the joint will not separate from the shift shaft (I'm not sure of the exact name, but that's what it's called in BMW language). Any ideas on how to get these two pieces apart? I'm on my way to go borrow a buddy's torch and I'm going to build a slide hammer...has anyone else had their ass kicked like this? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 15, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 15, 2012 Post pictures of the part you're talking about -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr walker Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 This is the left/rear of the transmission. As you can see the linkage is removed from the joint. If you're having a hard time orienting yourself with the picture, keep in mind that my hand is upside down. I've beat the dogshit out of the joint, applied heat, PB Blaster...I'm at the point where I'm ready to just drop the transmission. This project is quickly getting out of control... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 15, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 15, 2012 Yeah those things are a nightmare especially on a rusted car....you're in for a rough time. You can try taking a big screwdriver and putting it through the middle of the joint and prying up and down (to try and spin it a little bit. Use lots of PB Blaster and just work it back and forth. I have a really long chisel for my air hammer that I've used on these in the past, you're able to get it it from just the right angle if you lower the transmission just a little bit (an idea if you have a good air hammer and an air compressor). If worst comes to worst, you can always pull the transmission. It can be done in less than a few hours if you know what you're doing. When I recently did my clutch (I did it in my shop so I had lift, trans jack, air tools, etc) I had my transmission out in less than an hour. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 Two questions: 1) That is held in place by a double roll pin. Did you punch BOTH out, or just the inner? It looks like the whole thing came out, but they don't always. 2) Do you have any aero-kroil? It kicks the shit out of PB Blaster, especially for rusted together parts. Soak it in Kroil overnight, then try again. Since you won't be reusing the joint, try hitting it so you can spin it. Rust holds great in tube-shear, but terribly in torsion. Spinning it is a much more effective way to break it free than trying to pull/pry it off. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted August 15, 2012 I Donated Share Posted August 15, 2012 Rust holds great in tube-shear, but terribly in torsion. Spinning it is a much more effective way to break it free than trying to pull/pry it off. Thats why I suggested the screw driver trick -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr walker Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 Thanks for the replies. I did remove both spring pins (VERY valid question though). Is there any place where Aero-kroil can be had locally? Google doesn't show any results. I guess a good follow up question is this: how hard can I pound/twist on that joint and selector shaft before I do internal damage to the transmission? I should point out the following. I have a new joint ready to install. I suppose there's nothing to keep me from grinding the rivet off of the old joint (the one still in the car) as well as the new one and putting the two together with a bolt and lock nut, right? Think of it like a hybrid joint of old and new, with the new bushings of course. Also, I have the engine out of the car right now...if that makes a difference for coming up with additional plans of attack. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilpoindexter Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I just put bushings in my '96 wagon...I heated the joint with a propane torch..I was concerned i would damage the seal in the trans, but it appears that all is good. I also used kroil, but in an old school container, as it was much, much cheaper than the spray. I got mine at the local McMaster-Carr. The kroil really helped get the roll pins out, but waqsn't as effective on the shifter body itself. I used plastic bushings in the front joint, and bronze bushings in the back joint, now the trans snicks snicks like a miata transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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