0w-40 Mobil 1 for the winter?

I have read and read over and over.

I'm just wondering if 0w-40 would be appropriate for a Connecticut winter?

I've got a rather large amount of mobil 1 full synth that is at my disposal and was just wondering if I should just go buy 5w-30 full synth instead.

Should be ok.

 

Though there are some that say don't use Mobil 1 in these cars

 

I'm going with 5-40 in my 09 Spec B for the winter.

 

And on my high mileage 05 10-30 dino oil

Yes, It is fine.

I'm changing it today, so I'm wondering with a 0w while cold, and the temps not being too low as of now, what damage can I do? I always wait until the temps reach close to operational before driving anyways.

I've used 0w40 in my LGT for the past 2 oil changes (one WI winter). It's good stuff, it's cheap, it's readily available, and the car hasn't had any problems under its watch. After 4500mi-5500mi OCI's the oil still looks like it's got some life left in it. Go over to www.bitog.com if you haven't already and read what those guys have to say about M1 0w40... pretty good stuff if you've got the time.

The problem with m1 stuff is it breaks down quickly. So your 40 will become a 30 pretty quickly. The additional problem is m1 doesn't handle high heat, possibly what your turbo is going to do with it. To get that 0w you're looking at a ton of extra stuff in there. M1 is great for cheap syn, but there are better quality oils out there for the same money.

 

Unless you're going to be seeing temps below 10f you could even run 10w40, in a good syn. I do here in Reno. I run redline 10w40 built for turbos. It's hands down the best oil for our, or any motor that can run 10w40. You can get a 5w40 if you're going 10f or less. NOt sure what your winters are like but most winter mornings are only 20f out.

I'm using Penz 5 - 30 now, switched from Rotella 5-40. the 40 seems to keep the car running smoother. Going to switch back on the next change, which will be in the next month or so. My winter here only gets to ~40 degrees.

 

Use the M1, but I wouldn't buy it again. As people have said turns to water quickly and I notice major power loss, even in the wifes 2.5i Just my 2 cents

In before rao.

I'm changing it today, so I'm wondering with a 0w while cold, and the temps not being too low as of now, what damage can I do? I always wait until the temps reach close to operational before driving anyways.

 

It's better to drive gently to warm the car up, rather than letting it idle. This brings it up to operating temperatures faster.

It's better to drive gently to warm the car up, rather than letting it idle. This brings it up to operating temperatures faster.

Agreed and gets oil pressure up.

either that or GCastrol ow3o

do not idle ur car more than 60seconds, drive it slow, keep rpm below 2000k until the needle moves. Tranny, brakes and other parts need to warm up as well..

 

your engine oil is still cold for approximately 10mins after your car reach normal op temp. My oil temp gauge tells ...

The problem with m1 stuff is it breaks down quickly. So your 40 will become a 30 pretty quickly.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 30 weight still protects well enough. It's the M1 5W-30 that breaks down closer to a 20 weight that our engines don't like.

 

Am currently running M1 0W-40. Engine runs smoother when it's cold, warms up a little bit faster versus Rotella T6 5W-40 I had in there the last 2 oil changes.

anyone here try out rotella 0w 40 . Put it in my friends 08 wrx going to put it in my lgt next. Been running rotella 5w 40.

Is that a Canada thing? I've never seen 0w-40 rotella.

hmm maybe it is ill post a pic of the jug.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 30 weight still protects well enough. It's the M1 5W-30 that breaks down closer to a 20 weight that our engines don't like.

 

Am currently running M1 0W-40. Engine runs smoother when it's cold, warms up a little bit faster versus Rotella T6 5W-40 I had in there the last 2 oil changes.

The oil keeps breaking down. So yes, your 40 will become a 30, which is enough protection. However it doesn't just 'stop' at 30 and keep breaking down and keep in mind m1 products are always on the lightest side of the rating to begin with.

 

The problem I have with m1 in high heat/stress applications is gets thin fast and you loose the protection. The turbo and 4H motor put different loads on the oil.

 

That said I ran m1 extended performance at 15k intervals in our TL without issue. Sold the car with 140K on it and it burned no oil to speak of. I don't consider 1/2qt in 15K much oil.

 

My other experience is running m1 extended performance at 7K intervals on my S2000. I took out the chain tensioner. A common problem with low oil pressure. I did that in 30K of driving. Friend of mine running redline has 173K on the original chain tensioner and that is after dozens of track days.

 

This is all to say application is key. Since the GTR comes spec'd with M1 0w40 you're probably going to be ok. I'm just not a fan in performance motors. Your Honda Accord, no problem. GTL with high tq, high sheering factors I might consider something else.

 

What makes the GTL different? Half the piston head weight is pressing against the rings which are rubbing the wall. This makes for a high sheering factor against the oil. A thin coat allows the rings to float, as the oil gets thinner you run the risk of extra wear. It wouldn't be instant, it would happen over time. The high amounts of boost at low RPM's may play a factor. I don't know what oil PSI is at 2-3K.

 

This all makes me sound super negative about m1. I'm actually a big m1 Extended Performance fan in i4 and v6 na motors. Cannot get a cheaper long distance oil. But I don't know that is your application. If you want to be sure get blackstone labels to tell you how the oil is doing.

Did a UOA after my last oil change, haven't posted it yet but T6 5W-40 did fine. Ran it for 6 months, ~3K miles. They said try 5K miles.

Will probably do another UOA on M1 0W-40 after 6 months to see how the two compare.

^ that's a very good idea.

Was it with hard driving? What did it shear down to?

 

Other than flooring it on onramps, I don't really drive it hard, only have a 5 mile commute to work. They didn't say anything about shearing.

The problem with m1 stuff is it breaks down quickly. So your 40 will become a 30 pretty quickly. The additional problem is m1 doesn't handle high heat, possibly what your turbo is going to do with it. To get that 0w you're looking at a ton of extra stuff in there. M1 is great for cheap syn, but there are better quality oils out there for the same money.

 

Unless you're going to be seeing temps below 10f you could even run 10w40, in a good syn. I do here in Reno. I run redline 10w40 built for turbos. It's hands down the best oil for our, or any motor that can run 10w40. You can get a 5w40 if you're going 10f or less. NOt sure what your winters are like but most winter mornings are only 20f out.

 

 

 

the m1 5w-40 is much different than the 5w-30 m1. the 30 is considered an energy conserving blend, the 40 is not.

 

k.

 

welcome back

see t 5

T5 is synthetic blend.

 

T6 is full synthetic.

lol