5th Gen - Tricks and tweaks

My question for the seat belt chime is, do you have to do it on both sides? Or will it turn the passenger side light and chime off as well?

Seems to have disabled my passenger side as well.

^^That!

If you look around, you will find some aftermarket parts. Takeda has a cold air intake for the 2.5i and there are a variety of things you can do with the exhaust. Good luck with your project.

^^That!

 

If you look around, you will find some aftermarket parts. Takeda has a cold air intake for the 2.5i and there are a variety of things you can do with the exhaust. Good luck with your project.

Oh, you mean the one posted in the "Performance Mod" sticky and not the "Tricks & Tweaks" one?

But I guess, if the OP posts in enough threads without actually doing a search of the forum, someone is bound to do all the work for him, right?.

Oh, you mean the one posted in the "Performance Mod" sticky and not the "Tricks & Tweaks" one?

 

But I guess, if the OP posts in enough threads without actually doing a search of the forum, someone is bound to do all the work for him, right?.

Oh, you mean the performance one that has "LGT" in its title? Oh, I'm no the OP either, btw.

Take this out of the Sticky thread gentlemen.

minimo, visit the 5th gen section of the model specific forum and do a search. There you will find a load of threads that were started and never went anywhere.....

...

....because 2.5i is economy car.

So this morning I finally changed out my headlight bulbs (had the originals in there, and they were noticeably dimmer than when new) - read some of the posts about taking off the bumper, etc. and decided to follow what's in the manual first, then would pull the bumper if I had do. Was expecting to be all cut up and bloody from doing it the hard way, but was pleasantly surprised - I think I know where folks who have had troubles have gone wrong.

First, for the first time you try, I would lift the front of the car and take off the front wheels - probably not necessary, but it gives you space.

Next - pull the pop-its from the fenderliner - pull the three along the bottom that hold it to the bumper, then undo the two little ones that hold it to the undercover, then undo the large one inside the wheel well and one on the front inner surface of the wheel well liner (I marked the ones to remove on the figure)

Now pull the fenderliner out from under the fender, and fold it inwards out of the way (easiest to do if you grab and the front and sort of slide it backwards - there are two metal "hooks" on the edge of the fender you need to lift it up and over) - you don't want to be shy here - make sure it's out of the way (it might not stay there, so you'll need to hold it when you are in there)

You'll now have a clear view of the back of the headlights - you want to be reaching straight back, rather than from down below - I think that's where folks go wrong - not pulling the mudguard back enough, then reaching up from below to get to the headlight.

Uncsrew the dust cover over the bulb (it only turns about an eighth of a turn) - now you can clearly see the bulb.

Remove the connector (it pulls straight off)

Remove the metal clip (the clip releases from the left side - you push the end down a bit and it releases from the latch)

Pull out the headlight bulb - now look at the back of the headlight at where the bulb goes - the bulb only goes in one way - note where the key is, so that you can put the bulb back in properly.

Insert the new bulb (make sure you don't catch the clip) - it should seat flush with the light housing and not rock around. Once you are confident it's flush, pull the clip back over it (push it down to engage it on the hook) then look to make sure it's seated properly

Plug in the harness

replace the dust cover

put the fenderliner back

Done! now do the next side.

Took me about 10 minutes per side, and I was taking my time - as with almost all repairs, having the room to work is key in getting this done easily. First time out, give yourself as much room as you can - once you know what you need to do, you can try working with less room. I think you could do it without removing the wheels (just turning them) so maybe next time, I'll do it that way.

anyone know how to change units from fahrenheit and mpg to celcius and l/100km or km/l ?

It might be possible to have this done at the dealership but likely not something you can do on your own:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/convert-temperature-farenheit-celcius-138848p2.html?highlight=l%2F100km

anyone know how to change units from fahrenheit and mpg to celcius and l/100km or km/l ?

I had to...

http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/000/450/411/103.jpg

anyone know how to change units from fahrenheit and mpg to celcius and l/100km or km/l ?

give your manual a once over. i think i saw it in there when first bought the car. doubt you'll be able to get l/100km tho.

Decided to install a Fumoto Oil Drain Valve. Modified valve to allow more oil to drain from oil pan.

 

Measured to top of oil pan drain plug threads, then reduced height of Fumoto threads by making four drain relief notches.

 

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab160/BigBopper_01/LGT/P1010003-1_zps547ef6a5.jpg

 

http://i859.photobucket.com/albums/ab160/BigBopper_01/LGT/P1010001-4_zps3283b975.jpg

So this morning I finally changed out my headlight bulbs (had the originals in there, and they were noticeably dimmer than when new) - read some of the posts about taking off the bumper, etc. and decided to follow what's in the manual first, then would pull the bumper if I had do. Was expecting to be all cut up and bloody from doing it the hard way, but was pleasantly surprised - I think I know where folks who have had troubles have gone wrong.

 

First, for the first time you try, I would lift the front of the car and take off the front wheels - probably not necessary, but it gives you space.

 

Next - pull the pop-its from the fenderliner - pull the three along the bottom that hold it to the bumper, then undo the two little ones that hold it to the undercover, then undo the large one inside the wheel well and one on the front inner surface of the wheel well liner (I marked the ones to remove on the figure)

 

Now pull the fenderliner out from under the fender, and fold it inwards out of the way (easiest to do if you grab and the front and sort of slide it backwards - there are two metal "hooks" on the edge of the fender you need to lift it up and over) - you don't want to be shy here - make sure it's out of the way (it might not stay there, so you'll need to hold it when you are in there)

 

You'll now have a clear view of the back of the headlights - you want to be reaching straight back, rather than from down below - I think that's where folks go wrong - not pulling the mudguard back enough, then reaching up from below to get to the headlight.

 

Uncsrew the dust cover over the bulb (it only turns about an eighth of a turn) - now you can clearly see the bulb.

 

Remove the connector (it pulls straight off)

 

Remove the metal clip (the clip releases from the left side - you push the end down a bit and it releases from the latch)

 

Pull out the headlight bulb - now look at the back of the headlight at where the bulb goes - the bulb only goes in one way - note where the key is, so that you can put the bulb back in properly.

 

Insert the new bulb (make sure you don't catch the clip) - it should seat flush with the light housing and not rock around. Once you are confident it's flush, pull the clip back over it (push it down to engage it on the hook) then look to make sure it's seated properly

 

Plug in the harness

 

replace the dust cover

 

put the fenderliner back

 

Done! now do the next side.

 

Took me about 10 minutes per side, and I was taking my time - as with almost all repairs, having the room to work is key in getting this done easily. First time out, give yourself as much room as you can - once you know what you need to do, you can try working with less room. I think you could do it without removing the wheels (just turning them) so maybe next time, I'll do it that way.

Just don't do this when it's cold outside. Fevrer doesn't flex week and you'll end up with a cut in it off of one of the molding corners about 1/3 if the way up from the bottom. I think it was only high 40's F when it happened to mine.

Check out the Stahlbus oil drain valve, it seems to be pretty good:

http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves

Check out the Stahlbus oil drain valve, it seems to be pretty good:

 

http://www.stahlbus.com/info/en/products/oil-drain-valves

I like that a lot. only problem i could see would be not having the "bayonet" on you when you really need an oil change

Is there any way to change the clock in the dash on a 2011 to 24-hour time?

No

For HU model number CE617U1:

 

"To turn loudness on or off:

 

With the unit ON, press and hold 1, 6, and TUNE (right knob.) The display shows LOUD OFF or LOUD ON.

 

To disable fixed EQ:

 

With the unit OFF, press one of these combinations of buttons:

 

1 + 2 + TUNE for SEDAN

1 + 3 + TUNE for WAGON

1 + 4 + TUNE for THROUGH MODE"

Not sure Loud was on or off by default, but I hear no difference.

What is the second set there? I set mine to "sedan" but now what?

Not sure Loud was on or off by default, but I hear no difference.What is the second set there? I set mine to "sedan" but now what?