5EAT Ask your Questions!?!

When i go for spirited drives and shift the 5eat manually i always lift fully off the gas in 1st and 2nd when i rev it high. In 3rd or 4th i lift only slightly. I do this in fear of beating up the clutch packs. Is this a good or bad idea.

What power modifications?

Stage 2 Cobb OTS.....The only times I have ever really got on it and never lifted were when I was at the strip (stock levels) and when a did a few pulls against my buddy on the interstate around 2am.

Car has 120k miles. Owned by an old lady and serviced by a dealer until I got it at 100k miles

Stage 2 Cobb OTS.....The only times I have ever really got on it and never lifted were when I was at the strip (stock levels) and when a did a few pulls against my buddy on the interstate around 2am.

 

Car has 120k miles. Owned by an old lady and serviced by a dealer until I got it at 100k miles

Have you pulled the transmission dipstick to check the ATF against a white paper towel? See if it's still cherry red.

You're buying yourself more time when letting the shift complete before getting back on the gas. As far as I can tell, doing such at 75% gas instead of 100% throttle, makes little difference. The reality is at 100k miles you're closer to the end of your transmission lifespan than the beginning. No matter what you do, it will wear out a tiny bit more each time you drive it. I suggest you enjoy it, and know that a rebuild will be in your future. It may be at 120k, it may be at 180k, but no matter how you do it, clutch packs are wear parts, and Stage 2 is simply going to speed up the wear.

Sport mode produces a better shift (in nearly all regards including transmission wear). So if you're going to drive aggressively definitely keep it in manual or sport.

I really like to keep it in manual mode in one gear when I know the trans would get into a cycle of up-down-up-down-up-down, such as in commuting traffic. I do this with all my cars. I also like to keep it in 2nd when doing my around town cold-warmup. Less shifts = less wear. Kind of like how the best way to extend brake pad / rotor life is to drive such that you use the brakes rarely.

Just don't forget the whole point of life is to be happy, and if driving aggressively brings some amount of joy to your life, then just do it.

Other than that, fresh fluid is your best friend.

That sounds like a really annoying way to drive your car

Its actually not too bad....feels more like im driving a 5spd...a very slow shifting 5 spd

Have you pulled the transmission dipstick to check the ATF against a white paper towel? See if it's still cherry red.

 

You're buying yourself more time when letting the shift complete before getting back on the gas. As far as I can tell, doing such at 75% gas instead of 100% throttle, makes little difference. The reality is at 100k miles you're closer to the end of your transmission lifespan than the beginning. No matter what you do, it will wear out a tiny bit more each time you drive it. I suggest you enjoy it, and know that a rebuild will be in your future. It may be at 120k, it may be at 180k, but no matter how you do it, clutch packs are wear parts, and Stage 2 is simply going to speed up the wear.

Sport mode produces a better shift (in nearly all regards including transmission wear). So if you're going to drive aggressively definitely keep it in manual or sport.

Other than that, fresh fluid is your best friend.

Thanks for the tips...yea the fluid is cherry red, however I have not changed it in the time I have owned it so when I get home from college I am going to change it to be safe. And this summer I am going to be buying a valve body from you as well to be safe.

From what I have read the clutch packs are the weak link. Has anyone had any success of just buying IPT's cluctch packs and having a trusted trans builder install them? That seems like a good option. I dont want crazy power. But I would love to do a vf52/BNR turbo.

Thanks for the tips...yea the fluid is cherry red, however I have not changed it in the time I have owned it so when I get home from college I am going to change it to be safe. And this summer I am going to be buying a valve body from you as well to be safe.

 

From what I have read the clutch packs are the weak link. Has anyone had any success of just buying IPT's cluctch packs and having a trusted trans builder install them? That seems like a good option. I dont want crazy power. But I would love to do a vf52/BNR turbo.

That kit is overpriced. You don't need anything fancy for that power level, except a valve body upgrade.

That sounds like a really annoying way to drive your car

I tried that before also, but my car shifts smoother if i stay on the gas.

I'm at 100k and this tranny feels like new. Only place I ever saw signs of wear from clutches was the filter when I replaced it at about 80k.

I still have it and plan on cutting it for closer inspection.

What I found was a light, even deposit of fine dust that looks like carbon.

So you are saying with a VB and a cooler the tranny would be safe at around 350whp?

Are there any alternatives to IPTs kit

So you are saying with a VB and a cooler the tranny would be safe at around 350whp?

 

Are there any alternatives to IPTs kit

Assuming you're not going to be the one performing the rebuild, your rebuilder of choice can order from a performance catalog and get what he needs, at a much lower price. Red Eagle by Alto is good, and some shops claim to be able to get Borg Warner frictions / steels for the 5EAT / RE5R05A, which are the best. You would want to talk with your rebuilder beforehand, and see if he is willing to order high performance label frictions / steels where available in the trans. Some just use a 'Master Rebuild Kit' off the shelf.

Now to be realistic, I would worry much less about the brand of clutches / steels, and MUCH more about making sure your installer is the kind of guy / type of shop that will nail the clutch pack tolerances dead on. This is where you can go wrong. Unless you end up with some off-brand crappy rebuild kit, you're going to be fine (if you have an upgraded valve body), as long as the tolerances are all within spec, even on the tight side of within spec.

I've got a couple q's for you 5eat masters

It's not a new noise or anything, but I can hear an audible click from the shift gate when it downshifts to 1st gear while coming to a stop(Sport, Reg, or Man) the same sound as if I tap the brake pedal while in P (which I get that noise) but why the downshift click?

And secondly, while stopped, if I manually engage 1st I can hear a heatshield rattle type noise but like very subdued, then push the stick back to Regular mode and it goes away, manually engage 1st and it comes back, etc etc.

Any insight Climber or Frank?

PS - The hot fluid level is between the upper marks, and smells pretty good.

122k miles, Stg2 unknown mileage.

Was kind of planning on doing a fluid flush next week, time and $ permitting.

I'll see if the noise will show up on video...

http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/20130125_213704.mp4

If that vid works you should be able to hear two clicks when it downshifts to first, the noise from manually engaging 1st didnt really "show up" on the vid...

All I have to offer is that I've never heard those sounds in my 5eat.

I've got a couple q's for you 5eat masters

Well I must just be lucky then.

I really need to start listening to the radio more, instead of my car.

I've got a couple q's for you 5eat masters

 

It's not a new noise or anything, but I can hear an audible click from the shift gate when it downshifts to 1st gear while coming to a stop(Sport, Reg, or Man) the same sound as if I tap the brake pedal while in P (which I get that noise) but why the downshift click?

 

And secondly, while stopped, if I manually engage 1st I can hear a heatshield rattle type noise but like very subdued, then push the stick back to Regular mode and it goes away, manually engage 1st and it comes back, etc etc.

 

Any insight Climber or Frank?

 

PS - The hot fluid level is between the upper marks, and smells pretty good.

122k miles, Stg2 unknown mileage.

Was kind of planning on doing a fluid flush next week, time and $ permitting.

 

I'll see if the noise will show up on video...

http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/20130125_213704.mp4

 

If that vid works you should be able to hear two clicks when it downshifts to first, the noise from manually engaging 1st didnt really "show up" on the vid...

I have a couple ideas, but need more information to really be sure. If it bothers you that much, see if a friendly mechanic can drive it while on a lift, and pinpoint where the sound is coming from. The shift from 2-1 could be the sound of the direct clutch or DC solenoid disengaging, or the sound of the HL&R clutch or solenoid engaging, though these are things you shouldn't be able to hear. The shift cable is decoupled from the trans metal with some rubber, IIRC, though not much since you still need that cable connection to have little give.

The sound or sensation of going from 1st D to 1st Sport / Manual could be the sound of the Low Coast Brake or solenoid engaging.

These are probably the only ones you hear because otherwise road / tire / wind noise would drown out the other gear changes at higher speeds.

In any case, the solenoids are driven with PWM current, so there shouldn't be any relays clicking, except the shift lock solenoid...

Separately, I never thought about it before, but the shift lock solenoid may be engaging once you're out of 1st gear, so that you can't shift your car from 2nd, 3, 4 or 5th gear into Reverse or Park. Look into whether the sound is exactly the same, and that might be the answer to your question. As the Car Talk guys say, I like this answer.

How many miles are on the current ATF? Do you normally drive with the windows down when you hear these things?

If everything works fine and the fluid is fresh (<30,000 miles) then I wouldn't worry about it, and just give yourself a pat on the back from having such a keen ear to your car's idiosyncrasies.

ClimberD,

Have you ever tried the Beck Arnley Premium HP and Matic J fluid in the 5eat? The part number is 252-2001 and it can be found a bit cheaper than the SOA HP fluid.

It looks to be Jatco compliant but I haven't seen anyone mention using it.

Thanks

Ok so today while I was at McDonalds going thru the Drive Thru, I noticed a distinct Hissing sound, like air leaking. It only happened when I set the car to Manual Sport Mode? Any suggestions on what it could be?

-Fidel

Ok so today while I was at McDonalds going thru the Drive Thru, I noticed a distinct Hissing sound, like air leaking. It only happened when I set the car to Manual Sport Mode? Any suggestions on what it could be?

 

-Fidel

Hissing/whining is not a good sign on an automatic. Mine lasted like that for about an hour of drive time before it quit altogether.

It could potentially be seals on their way out. The sound is from fluid escaping where it shouldn't. Sport mode has higher line pressure, which would make it worse. You might want to avoid sport mode to extend the life of the transmission if that's the case.

ClimberD,

Have you ever tried the Beck Arnley Premium HP and Matic J fluid in the 5eat? The part number is 252-2001 and it can be found a bit cheaper than the SOA HP fluid.

 

It looks to be Jatco compliant but I haven't seen anyone mention using it.

 

Thanks

If it's Matic J compliant, then it's 5EAT compliant. I have just been using Amsoil because it works well and feels better at room temp. Generally, the trend has been to a) just buy OEM, don't waste time thinking about it when you know it will work, or b) Amsoil ATF, since it's Full Synthetic bling and also just works.

Ok so today while I was at McDonalds going thru the Drive Thru, I noticed a distinct Hissing sound, like air leaking. It only happened when I set the car to Manual Sport Mode? Any suggestions on what it could be?

 

-Fidel

I'm local, so message me if you want a second opinion. Driving the car is usually a lot better than internet diagnosis. You might have a vacuum leak, or you might have an aftermarket intake or filter, or it might be normal, or it might be fuel pump buzzing bouncing off the drive-through wall, or it might be...

If it's Matic J compliant, then it's 5EAT compliant. I have just been using Amsoil because it works well and feels better at room temp. Generally, the trend has been to a) just buy OEM, don't waste time thinking about it when you know it will work, or b) Amsoil ATF, since it's Full Synthetic bling and also just works.

Got it! I think I'm going to give it a try. I'm due for a drain and fill.

I'm going to be running Redline D4 ATF on the new built trans. Seems like good stuff from all of the forum reviews I've read. It's Nissan Matic J and S compliant.

I too have heard good things about it. My only concern about it (same concern with all the boutique fluids, such as Royal Purple, various other "racing" oils) is the lack of widespread use, and lack of consistency. I need a recommendation that always works, always the same, so it's either Amsoil or OEM. If a customer has an issue, it helps a lot to know that if they have fresh fluid at the right fluid level, then it's most likely a mechanical issue that we can start picking away at. You are in a different position, you have the experience to identify a transmission issue.