Stevo F Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I had a mechanic look at a couple of things on my son's Legacy today. First was an issue with the brakes: Last spring, the right front caliper stuck and overheated the pads and rotor. After this, I replaced the right front caliper, and when bleeding the lines, sucked some air in from the master cylinder, but I bled them again and got a firm pedal. I installed different set of pads I had, and a new rotor. This summer I flushed all of the lines and replaced the front pads with new ceramic pads, after this is when I noticed the rear brakes were locking under heavy braking (on dry pavement- I haven’t had a chance to see if the ABS works on wet pavement). I was wondering if there is any air trapped air in the ABS unit from air getting into the system previously, or any other issue causing the brakes to lock. Today, the mechanic hooked it up to his computer and didn't find any codes, including any for ABS brake line pressure issues. I would like to check the ABS on a wet road to see if it will activate, as that's where you would want it to activate anyway. The other issue is a rattling or knocking noise (at an irregular interval- kind of random) coming from the driver's side of the front timing cover (this is an EJ22). The timing belt and all components were replaced 12K miles ago, but this noise has grown louder over time. I can especially hear it at idle and when the engine is warm. The mechanic heard it and listening to different parts of the engine and said it's definitely in the timing cover area. He said I might want to remove that side of the timing cover and see if the belt or anything else is contacting it, making the noise. Can I remove just the right 1/3 of the timing over to check the driver's side? If nothing looks like it's contacting the timing cover I'm guessing it's an idler pulley or maybe the water pump. Any other ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 If the belt was replaced by someone else 12k miles ago I'd take it to them and tell them to fix whatever they messed up! I'd imagine if you open the cover yourself it just makes it that much less likely they'll agree to fix their mistake...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Actually it's a guy I know who's a mechanic that works out of his house. I supplied the parts (from Rock Auto as it was cheaper than he could get them), so likely he'll just blame the parts, not his install). Funny also that the mechanic from yesterday noticed that one bolt was missing from each side of the timing cover (not sure if that was from work the PO had done or the last guy that I used). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 The mechanic heard it and listening to different parts of the engine and said it's definitely in the timing cover area. He said I might want to remove that side of the timing cover and see if the belt or anything else is contacting it, making the noise. Can I remove just the right 1/3 of the timing over to check the driver's side?timing cover noise sounds like a tensioner issue, maybe. a mechanics stethoscope would be a good investment, $10. I haven’t had a chance to see if the ABS works on wet pavement.well you should have your chance on wdenesday. try it. each time the timing covers are removed it is another opportunity for a ''wrencher'' to misplace a non-essential bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snederhiser Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hello; Did you check the A/C idler tension pulley? Missing bolts on the timing covers are common from corroded bolts and the nuts being molded into the plastic. The toothed roller is the likely culprit here, Steven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Yes, I forgot to mention that I pulled off the drive belts and the noise persisted, so the power steering pump, A/C compressor and alternator are ruled out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 I am going to remove the drivers side part of the timing cover tomorrow- 1. Does it com off with the just the 3 or so 10MM bolts that are holding it on? 2. The mechanic told me to look for anywhere where the belt may be contacting the timing cover- anything else I should look for while I have it off- would I be able to spot a bad tensioner? 3. Is it safe to run the engine with the right 1/3 of the timing cover off so I can listen for the noise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snederhiser Posted October 18, 2014 Share Posted October 18, 2014 Hello; I would pull all of the timing covers off. The only bitch here is locking the flywheel to remove the crankshaft pulley. Three 10mm bolts hold each side covers on, soak these with PB blaster or WD40. The center cover has about eight (poor memory). The tensioner rarely goes out in a 2.2l engine. Just a few thoughts, Steven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 This morning I noticed that I couldn't hear the noise when the engine was cold- only after taking it for a ride around the block and getting up to operating temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo F Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Took the driver's side cover off (broke off the plastic piece that the bolt on the side screws into- yea!) Belt looked OK. Still sounds like the sound is a coming from the water pump or idler bearing. Will likely let my mechanic take the rest off and replace what is needed. Decided to quit while I was behind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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