Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Shaking steering wheel


Recommended Posts

why did you just replace the rotors and not the pads? possible your caliper is seized on the rotor.
258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah your pads could be warped or have grooves from the old rotors. Get some 300 grit sandpaper (maybe more maybe less just throwing it out there) and run your pads back and forth to try and even them out. Yes you'll loose some life out of the pads, but at this point it sounds like the only thing to do before getting new ones.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn't matter what condition your pas are in, they will NOT cause any vibration. Just because you replaced your rotors does not mean you have good ones. Brand new rotors can warp, especially since they are just about all mass produced in China these days. I would be more likely to blame CV axles.
If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

could be a faulty/crappy tyre. i know one of mine warped once and the shaking was unbearable. found out which one it was, put the spare on as a test and came right. took tyre back to the shop and they swapped it out.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

read numerous articles online stating that rotors do not warp. Its the baked on brake pad deposit that creates the variance in rotor thickness that gives the illusion of a warped disk, iirc.

 

I'm having the same issue with vibrations on the steering wheel. very prominent when driving at the 60-80 mph range and from braking in the same speed range. No vibrations from the body or the brake pedal. only the steering wheel shakes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Indeed, and have also read numerous articles that say warped rotors are a myth, and numerous articles saying they are more than capable of warping. Generally all articles will imply that the person is a specialist on the matter lol. Either way, warping or deposits can cause shuddering (when braking) - if deposits, then I stand corrected. I guess in this circumstance it would be ruled out, as rotors have been replaced and I presume the shaking occurs even when no braking is applied?

 

This video actually outlines alot of things that may cause it very well...

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLqF7A3SAXE]How To Fix The "Shimmy" Or Vibration Of A Steering Wheel | BestTireAndWheelShop.com - YouTube[/ame]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

read numerous articles online stating that rotors do not warp.

 

I sure wish my rotors would have read that.

 

 

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

If you woke up today, you have another chance to do it right.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi!

had same problem awhile ago.

i recently got an improvement of the steering wheel shaking after aligning the driving geometry.

nevertheless i still have some mild vibration at certain speeds (not always).

planning to try to swap front/rear wheels to see if there will be any difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

posting an update..

 

just installed brand new tires and the shaking is gone driving up to highway speeds. unfortunately, the steering wheel still shakes when braking from 65-80 mph. No pulsations from the brake pedal and no shimmying from the rear end.

 

Will post another update if i find something else that causes the brake steering wheel shake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

 

Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.

 

The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

 

After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use